Oh no...

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 07 Jun 2010, 18:04

A valve spring compressor is fairly cheap but then all the little cheap bits add up dont they, ive got loads of pictures of tct engine out of the car and im right in the middle of rebuilding mine now so any pictures of hard to reach areas like jim says just shout, in fact heres one that will be the most usefull....

Sorry they arent inline but flickr wont let me in for some strange reason.

D

KP · Unread post by KP » 07 Jun 2010, 19:21

Thats great cheers Dean

gives way to an idea i had about using exhaust wrap on the manifold though to help bring down underbonnet temps massively. May get away with a meter just after the turbo though to help

That turbo water pipe is very close to the manifold as well for my liking and getting those pipes off with engine in situ is going to be a nightmare

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 07 Jun 2010, 19:47

Looking at Dean's pictures Will, I do wonder if it is possible, once the turbo pipes are out of the way, to undo the manifold bolts so that it can be pushed back to make head removal easier.

It can be done on the 1.9TD and I reckon worth a try before trying to lift the head with manifold and turbo still attached.

I had a look at the older of my Activas and once the turbo pipes are out of the way, there looks to be space, especially if the engine is tilted forward a bit as well.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 07 Jun 2010, 20:44

Paul (Citroenxm) nows about swapping the turbo in situ i think.........

As far as exhaust mani bolts go i think some are obstructed by the turbo itself, the 4 turbo flange bolts are a bit of a swine to get too aswell, im sure the turbo would be easy enough to get out either with or without the head though, well when i say easy what i mean is possible

For your idea to work though the three lower support bracet bolts would have to come out too and probably the waste gate actuator, coolant feed and return and the oil feed undone from the front of the block where its easy to get at since its clipped to the head anyway, thde oil return will just pull out of the block so wont need to be unbolted from the turbo either.......

D

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 07 Jun 2010, 21:28

just been out to the shed for a quick look at the manifold and i think you may be able to slip the manifold off BUT it would have to go back in with the manifold on as doing the gasket with the head in situe on the rebuild may be slightly awkward.
More piccies

Cant help thinking these slots on the O/S stud holes must be there for a reason/cheat

These two bottom centre manifold bolts may be tricky with the turbo on

D

KP · Unread post by KP » 08 Jun 2010, 09:13

I think ill have to take it all out in one go would be the easiest and quickest job.

The place that quoted £240 labour for the job said it was a 6hour job so 3 off 3 on...

On another note how heavey is the head and turbo Dean? Is it heavey enough to require 2 people to lift it out or 1 very strong person?

the last head and exahsut i lifted out was a Renault 16v head with exhaust manifold on from a Renault 19 16V Chamade and that pushed my limits then...

Unread post by **RichardW** » 08 Jun 2010, 10:10

I lifted the head on a BX TD complete with manifolds and turbo - it was 'kin heavy and awkward (although worse on this early TD as the engine had a front plate that the camshaft had to come through so it needed a sideways lift). Given the choice I would get an assistant, or use a hoist to lift it out! I had to get right in the engine bay, and even then it was tough on the back - I'd estimate the all up weight at 40-50kg.

KP · Unread post by KP » 08 Jun 2010, 11:23

May have to ask for some heavies to come round then

problem as well for me is the drive is a stone/gravelly drive so i'll have to get the carpet out and some woodboards to ensure the crane is ok if i can find one...

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 09 Jun 2010, 19:14

What news Will?

KP · Unread post by KP » 10 Jun 2010, 07:48

Haven't had a chance yet Jim

Cycling to work kills me for a few days to be honest

Will see if i can get anything done tonight, may have a deal to do with the local pug indy though that may see the work done labour free.

Am hoping i may get another xantia that needs a clutch job though to keep me going and do the head myself as wouldn't mind being nosey really or investigating the 16v route but the exhaust side i am still unsure on.

Also still waiting for M&M to call me back about the Rad. the last they told me 2 days ago was that i would have to take the rad back to the manufacturer's so they could test it to show it was faulty.... so need address's of the places that are close to me and may have to be a satday morning job if they ever call me back but its plainly obvious when you look at the rad that its been leaking slowly and surely and getting worse for the deposits on it

KP · Unread post by KP » 16 Jun 2010, 13:17

Just looking for a timing belt tool kit and have noticed some on ebay.

Do you just need to lock the cam and lower pulley or is it better to lock the flywheel using a pulley locking tool?

Also on this note once i get that lower pulley off i'll see if its solid or not and if not get a solid one from scrappers but is the flywheel only equiped with one TDC locking hole or are the multiples?

Also any guides on tct cambelt changes anyone as IIRC jim has done something similar but i cant find it

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 16 Jun 2010, 15:42

Hi Will.

I recently had the unfortunate scenario of an Xm 2.0i TCT timing belt
tensioner outer bearing race collapse and come off the centre bearing
and whilst still somehow allowing the belt to function (of sorts) it must've
slipped as the valves did catch the pistons yet the engine still ran...

I must add, this was at start up and on switching off the day before all
was fina and in fact had been running for hours (at speed) on the motorway!!

Goosed belt still just about working - it snapped by hand though when I
tried putting some tension on it!!

Scary to think what goes on under the timing cover! Lesson I lerned was don't trust previous owner service history paperwork that said the belt
AND THE TENSIONER were renewed recently!!

Anyhow, in the process of rescuing the pieces left a new belt was needed
and for the life of me I was never able to find the pin hole opening on the
on the manual gearbox flywheel the way I can with other Xantiae TD's to
lock the crank! The best way I eventually found to lock the engine was
removal of the starter and using one of these:

On the Xm at least, I found the crank pulley to be a solid jobby not like the
2.0i base Xantia one that didn't like provocation to remove it with a puller:

and with an identical replacement off a ZX 2.0i auto Volcane!

Andrew

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 16 Jun 2010, 17:52

Hi KP

Timing belt guide Here although you will have to sign up to cxm to view it..i think, you may need Andrew's tool for undoing the pulley bolt if the starter trick doesnt work but there is no need for any other timing kit really, just a selection of drill bits

.

D

KP · Unread post by KP » 16 Jun 2010, 19:53

Cool ill try and sign up tomorrow and look see

Thanks guys for all your help

KP · Unread post by KP » 23 Jul 2010, 09:31

Anyone who could take a day out anytime to help me with this would be appreciated

Have a Dell D510 and a HP Laserjet 1100 with spare toner cartridge for anyone who wants it in return for work on the car

French Car Forum

Oh no...

Timing Belt tools