Positive Battery Terminal

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 02 Jul 2010, 17:09

Seems my battery came loose and the positive terminal has split so need a replacement terminal. Went to Halfrauds and theirs look a bit on the feeble side and could potentially cause excessive resistance.

Anyone recommend a supplier or type I should buy. I'm quite taken by the quick-release versions but don't think there's enough space to fit them. Other options are ICE high quality types with options but again, they might be a tad too large.

Also, tips on removing the old terminal which look as though they're crimped lead?

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 02 Jul 2010, 17:50

Have a look on ebay, you should find what you want there, and probably cheaper than anywhere else.

Peter

Philjw · Unread post by **Philjw** » 02 Jul 2010, 18:11

Try a boat chandler for one. If you can solder or crimp a ring connector onto the wire then get one which has a threaded post. If not you can get a connector with screws holding the cable.
You will have to cut away the lead. I've done this by sawing with a small hacksaw at an angle, just not cutting into the copper wire, turning so the cut is a spiral then peeling back the lead

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 02 Jul 2010, 18:12

i dont like after market replacement battery terminals,

i preffer to find an original in good condition with the lead,

trouble is people over tighten them which streaches the lead, the jaws should not be tight together,

the original terminals are moullded onto the lead,

regards malcolm

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 02 Jul 2010, 21:21

I have ones similar to these
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/The-Closeout-Z ... ec0Q2em322
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/BITS-WAREHOUSE ... 1187307017

They're handy as they can take multiple connections.

dnsey · Unread post by **dnsey** » 02 Jul 2010, 22:35

I've never tried it, but you might be able to weld up the split in the old one using a blowlamp and plumber's flux (mind the lead fumes, though).

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 03 Jul 2010, 08:25

dnsey wrote
"I've never tried it, but you might be able to weld up the split in the old one using a blowlamp and plumber's flux"

the reason the OE terminal splits is because people over tighten them so much it streach's the lead to the point were it give up,

although i spoz any of you that make your own fishing weights might have the abilaty to do something with them,

regards malcolm

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2010, 09:08

I'm not sure it's pure lead so welding it may not work. In any case, lead welding is an exceedingly skilled job.

Xac's terminals have stood the test of time, even if they look a but "barryboy" or chavtastic

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 03 Jul 2010, 10:44

They're not so bad looking once you get rid of the plastic covers

You can now get ones which will tell you the voltage, how cool is that?

dieseldoggy · Unread post by **dieseldoggy** » 03 Jul 2010, 12:53

My last zanty i cut lead one off and soldered one on cable.not an hard job.
On this one now bonnet stay kept dropping down when opening it and kept pulling clamp off battery!
I have a few of the older types ie like the good ole days??? If any one needs one with 2 screw/bolts holding cable tight

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 06 Jul 2010, 16:22

The Halfrauds offering (also sold all over ebay) doesn't look like it could accept the whole cable and I'm dubious the two screws will provide enough contact area to avoid excess resistance and overheating but I'm happy to be proved wrong as they're dirt cheap.

Xac's choice looks funky but I can't see how they're attached to the cable conductors?

The idea of an included voltage meter is very appealing!!

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 06 Jul 2010, 16:27

bonnet stay kept dropping down when opening it and kept pulling clamp off battery!

yep very common DD.. the clips are about 30p from a stealer, get a spare one

the amount of hassle combined with so little cost to fix, is at the top of the leaderboard

other classic symtoms are the raised bonnet complete with 'stay' holding area , i have had two bonnets with these in

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 06 Jul 2010, 16:39

jgra1 wrote:other classic symtoms are the raised bonnet complete with 'stay' holding area , i have had two bonnets with these in

Do you have a spare stay for the fully open position or know where I can get one cheap? Is it a single part or what? Or am I misinterpreting you?

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 06 Jul 2010, 16:59

MikeT wrote:The Halfrauds offering (also sold all over ebay) doesn't look like it could accept the whole cable and I'm dubious the two screws will provide enough contact area to avoid excess resistance and overheating but I'm happy to be proved wrong as they're dirt cheap.

Xac's choice looks funky but I can't see how they're attached to the cable conductors?

The idea of an included voltage meter is very appealing!!

the cables go into sockets and are held in place by grub screws.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 06 Jul 2010, 17:24

Xac wrote:the cables go into sockets and are held in place by grub screws.

I'd appreciate a photo of the cable going into the socket, if you could oblige next time you're with the car please Andy? There's little room for leverage on mine and I've got some "extras" and fuseholders piggybacking off it as it is with plans to add another one or two in the near future. Was the socket large enough to accept all the conductor wires ok?

Meanwhile, I'm off to look for these voltmeter types...