Oh no...

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 05 Jun 2010, 14:29

Have you guys been splitting up TCT Xm autos though?

These will have the bean can oil cooler sitting on the gearbox
itself. The oil filter sits straight onto the block of the 2.0 Xant
and the only alternative fastening point on the rear of the
engine is already busy with coolant piles and the lower rear
engine mount. Am I missing something on my manual Xm TCT
and various Activae!? Please no, don't let them have these
totally rubbish built down to a cost (15p?) wastes of space!

I'll check when I'm back at the house as I'm down the beach
and using my iPhone! Pictures on my camera shots of a turbo
2.0 Xm engine don't show a cooler either. The severity of the
Mayo would suggest a significant watering of the oil - what's
the symptoms of oiling of the water? It'd mess both if a cooler
is fitted and failing?

My best bet would be ona failing HG at the end of the day...

Andrew

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 05 Jun 2010, 17:28

Yes OK, there IS an oil cooler on a TCT XM!! I don't know what I've been
thinking and blame recent messing around with my boggo 2.0i Xm's and
my CX GTi turbo...

When I get a minute I'll check out the nearby Activae but would guess
there will be one with the same engine being shared on the TCT Xm!

So, certainly prime suspect in the mayo scenario Will! Guess a few seconds
gander under the bonnet will show whether your engine has one fitted. It
looks like the Xm one is identical to the Xant TD one too and a load of
rubbish they are too!!

Andrew

KP · Unread post by KP » 05 Jun 2010, 18:11

Sorry dont get a chance to pop online much of a weekend

Yes it definately has the oil cooler, but the way the water circuit is pressuring i would guess the HG is the main suspect and possibly the cooler will have let go.

Is it really needed in this country or something i can do away with if i take the head off to avoid future problems??

I know there has been talk of a proper oil cooler fitment in the past for these engines and if anyone knows of people in other countries fitting them it would be a great help.

also does the engine have to come out for the head job as it does involve the turbo coming off doesn't it??

Didn't one of our finish members manage to swap a turbo without dropping the engine but by removing the mounting or something??

Don't fancy swapping my sunroof for one of your AC activas Andrew

???

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 05 Jun 2010, 20:56

Cant advise about the job in a Xantia as im not sure how much room you have but a headgasket job is posible and practical to do with the engine in situe on an XM.
I would say the cooler needs to stay on the petrol turbo but you should be able to loose it on a derv no problems, a 'proper' front mounted oil to air cooler would be ok but would have to be thermostaticaly controlled to stop overcooling of the oil in the winter.
If you do decide to remove the cooler then it just unbolts from the block (after removing the filter) and then the filter should screw straight onto the block but i will check my engine to confirm that later just in case im talking total rubbish. linking the cooling pipes would be easy enough first off just to rule out the cooler though, not sure how they go but i would think since the oil is pumped at far higher pressure than the cooling system is at you would be getting oil in the water?????????

To be fair water in the oil is typical head gasket failure symptoms on these engines and is usually down to antifreeze changes being forgoten resulting in corrosion of the heads mating surface and gasket degradation.

D

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 11:35

Sorry to hear this Will

I believe the best way to lift the head will be with exhaust manifold and turbo attached. It'll be heavy but possibly the easier method...

Is this not the second engine this car has had in your ownership?

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 06 Jun 2010, 12:00

KP wrote:the way the water circuit is pressuring i would guess the HG is the main suspect and possibly the cooler will have let go.

The compression ratio of these engines isn't anywhere remotely near diesels
so be absolutely certain the pressure you get opening the expansion tank
isn't simply what you'd get normally - you may never take much notice
when all is fine and it'd be easy to talk up a problem that may not be there
with the HG.

I'd certainly try another cooler - not much worse than doing an oil filter
change but certainly a faff getting the hose pipes off and knowing they'll
have those horrid self clamping spring loaded clamps.

KP wrote:also does the engine have to come out for the head job as it does involve the turbo coming off doesn't it??

A 2.0i head will lift off without removing the whole engine but it's tight
against the bulkhead so leaning the whole lot forward makes the job
much more 'doable'.

KP wrote:Don't fancy swapping my sunroof for one of your AC activas Andrew ???

Get yours sorted and we'll have a talk again...

You could of course get that delage red s2 one in Bristol...

Andrew

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 12:10

Indeed Andrew, the pressure in the top hose can be deceptive on the 2.0CT engine. I'd certainly eliminate the cooler from enquiries as the head gaskets are in general, pretty reliable on these engines.

Bypass it but keep a wary eye on oil temperature.

And never forget there is a well-sorted but scruffy silver Activa available in Newport Pagnell

It needs, to finsh it, a heater matrix (ideally) and an OS front wheel bearing....

It has a sunroof!

KP · Unread post by KP » 06 Jun 2010, 14:00

Already done both jobs on mine lol

I guess i'd need a lift then to lift the head and manifold and turbo out in one go then as IIRC heads are not lgiht things and the last one i lifted out was on an r19 with exhaust on and that 16v head wieghed a lot and i am not as fit as i used to be

Scruffy one in bristol??

The top hose gets under so much pressure its near rock hard.

if the cap is left off the water starts coming out of the header tank after a little while even when the system is bled fully.

Is this normal?

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 06 Jun 2010, 15:30

Sounds like HG failure to me. You should be able to almost completely flatten the hose while the engine is running - dependant on hand strength of course.

My method of diagnosing it is to determine if there's significant pressure after an overnight rest by removing the expansion tank cap without starting the engine. Then start the engine with the cap left off and look for minute bubbles rising and the smell of exhaust gases. Raise it to a higher idle if nothing's seen.

Another option is to get a chemical sniff test done, either by a friendly garage (cost a beer) or buy the kit yourself for about £30.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 15:40

KP wrote: Is this normal?

No. Sadly I think the HG must now be prime suspect...

Still, it's an 8V engine so barring the turbo issue, a reasonably straightforward one to do.

KP · Unread post by KP » 06 Jun 2010, 16:59

Has anyone on here or the clubxm ever done a howto at all or is it a follow the BOL thing??

Im guessing that a cambelt job should cover some of the work and i will need to get the lock things to do that and the belts too

Also is it worth swapping the oil filter when i do it with some cheap one and some cheap oil for a few hundred miles then moving it onto some decent oil?? ie something cheap from asda or the like to flush the excess water and any gunk out of the system??

Does the HP pump need to come off at all or are msot things sensibly bolted to the block???

Thanks for the support guys im biking it to work this week and will be taking this on in the evenings i guess until its back on the road, just such a ballache going back down to 1 car in the house

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 17:16

Not a howto Will precisely but we can guide you...

The Xantia BoL does not cover the 2.0CT at all but the XM BoL does and in reasonable detail. TRy to get hold of an XM BoL if you can.

HP pump, I'm pretty sure can stay in place...

Bring the engine to time remembering you can't rely on the dual mass pulley to have an accurate timing hole in it...

Basically, inlet manifold off, exhaust disconnected, turbo pipes removed, turbo support bracket undone, cambelt off, top engine mount off, top hose off, turbo oil and water feeds disconnected, head bolts out and lift...

I'd have the head pressure tested and lightly skimmed.

I always have an Activa on my drive so anything that is not clear, just shout...

KP · Unread post by KP » 07 Jun 2010, 08:51

Well just seeing about an XM haynes now

and will see about the head testing if i can find somewhere not a million miles away to do it

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 07 Jun 2010, 12:07

KP wrote:Well just seeing about an XM haynes now

Will, if you need anyting urgently fro the XM BoL I can always sacn it for you...

Do your bvest to get the head tested and very lightly skimmed. Time and money well spent for a bit of peace of mind.

KP · Unread post by KP » 07 Jun 2010, 12:18

Is there anything i should note jim as i will need to strip the head for the pressure test and skim so is it worth the injectors being cleaned or should i let the tips soak in some injector cleaner/brake cleaner and then refit them and the tappets and so on should be fun as i dont have a spring compression tool...