Renault Master Gear Linkage

Dave V6 · Unread post by **Dave V6** » 01 Jun 2010, 18:58

Hello,

my 'work van' an X reg Renault Master 2.8dti has some problems. The main one is with the gear linkage. Doeas anyone know if it is a common problem to have one of the ball and socket joints (on the top arm from the gearbox) work loose? the plastic 'socket' bit on teh end of the linkage rod seems worn internally and when I push it back onto the ball part of the arm it just pops right back off under any pressure.

Is the plastic socket part replaceable or is it a whole new gear linkage?

Also what kind of repair could I do with the sump? It has a pinhole most likely from a stone chip at the front and is leaking oil quite badly. It is easy to replace? If I attempt a DIY replacement what do I have to look out for, or is it just a case of drain the oil, remove old sump, replace with new sump and new sump gasket?

Any info or advice greatly welcomed, hope to get the van shipshape soon.

Thanks,

Dave.

Unread post by **myglaren** » 01 Jun 2010, 20:03

Malcolm - (citronut) - recommended Quicksteel for my sump problems over the weekend.
Looks good although the problem was solved before I read his post.

Dave V6 · Unread post by **Dave V6** » 03 Jun 2010, 16:48

Thanks myglaren for that info.

I have some very similar stuff in the garage from a bootlid repair to an old AX a while ago, but if I were to use it on the sump how would I go about this? I'm not thick, but am a bit worried about getting it wrong...

I assume that I first drain the oil from the sump, then clean all around the pinhole where it leaks, right?

Then, I imagine that I would 'work' the resin until it is ready to apply and then just sort of smear it on over the hole?

If I do this I am concerned that some of the resin will pass through the hole, break off inside the sump, solidify, and then chew up the engine when it travels up with the oil...or is this a completely irrational fear - i.e. will it get caught in the oil filter or is there an oil pump intake filter or something?

Should I remove the sump completely before trying to repair with the epoxy resin? that way I could smooth down the inside of the sump to make sure there is no hardened resin floating around inside. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty, but don't want to do more work than is necessary, and am pretty new to all this mechanical stuff. I'm more at home with electrics and electronics, so don't really know what can go wrong with engines when you DIY...

Any and all help much appreciated - she has a long run this weekend, but if I can't repair I'll just top it up and watch it all come slowly out the bottom....

Dave .

KP · Unread post by KP » 04 Jun 2010, 09:58

I've used liquid metal before. as long as there is no crack you should be ok. Make sure you clean off all traces of oil on the outside.

Then dont allow too much to go inside as it wont stick to anything as it will all be covered in horrible thick oil and just end up floating around until it gets stuck in the filter or something else.

I left it to dry for as long as possible, at least overnight on a warmish night and then put oil back in.

If possible apply some heat to it with a hairdryer or heatgun, at a distance of about 50cm so as to not give it too much in one go and then allow it to go off and sand it smooth, then apply some laqcuer to it to make sure its nice and water tight from the outside.