MOT....Corrosion and emission test results

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joan33987
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MOT....Corrosion and emission test results

Post by joan33987 »

Hello,
Just took my beloved 1996 N reg mk1 Clio 1.2 for MOT.
It failed on some trivial things.
headlight aim incorrect
both front wheels were buckled (due to driving over numerous potholes a few months back)
and one of the black plastic trims from the left side fell off.
Garaged asked £ 25 to fix all those
Other then those, the car Passed.

BUT they did issue an advisory to me, Saying "front vehicle structure has slight corrosion" "Front sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened"
I drove home. Had a peak under the engine and saw this, well, just slightly worrying...
Image

left
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centre

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right

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inside1

Image

indside2

Anything i can do to SLOW DOWN the corrosion? Intending to keep the car for at least 2 years. (if i don't crash it)

Last year, I drove 14K on this car. Most of them are pizza delivery miles. The coming year would be quieter as i've quit the job. It currently has 136,070 miles. I bought the car for £ 600 last year april with 120,000

Emission test results.... to me, it seems a bit borderline, prior to the test, I DID USE a tankful of MORRISONS FUEL but before that I usually use Shell, Esso, Jet or BP because the prices are about the same as supermarket. But anyhow, This emision is going to get worse in the future, is there anyway i can do to improve the emission? What is causing it to get worse actually? Blow-by?

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Post by myglaren »

We have just had to replace the front subframe in my son's 306 as it failed the MOT - it was nowhere near as rusty as yours though.
Also failed on headlight aim but passed on retest. I had a butcher's but didn't actually do anything with it.
Failed on a lot of other things too.

Prior to testing we always change the oil and filters then give the cars at least a one-hundred mile blast down the A1, works wonders for the emissions test :)
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Post by MikeT »

I must be fortunate - whenever headlights needed adjusting, they reset them there and then while the machine is out. I've only seen it done a handful of times but not once have I ever had them a cause for a fail.

While it's not a great concern and an easy fix, it is interesting to note headlight aim is now no longer a free re-test item. I wonder why not? :roll:

I've also noticed in the last couple of years that I've been getting a lot more advisories that, IMO, would have not have even been mentioned before. I can't quote any examples but I'm pretty sure some of them aren't even MOT testable items and so would never cause a fail.

The cynic in me says this is scare-mongering to benefit the service business but there could be other reasons I guess.

Mind you, I'm still upset at the fact my number plate failed last year because "the camera's might have a problem reading them".
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Post by tonupteabag »

tbf i have a friend that bought a citroen despatch with three weeks mot so he took it to the mot station and it failed he was quoted £550 to put it right according to the fail sheet the steering rack had excessive play and the front brakes were out of balance
i had a look for him and after i stopped laughing we took it for another mot at a reputable testing station and it went straight through with an advisary on the handbrake travel i think due to the economic climate a lot of places are trying to make work to keep in business which in my oppinion is completely out of order :x
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Post by joan33987 »

MikeT wrote: Mind you, I'm still upset at the fact my number plate failed last year because "the camera's might have a problem reading them".
How come? you've got mud on it, wront type of font?
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Post by MikeT »

Sorry I forgot to add - for the emissions and despite the PASS data looking just fine to me, a good service usually improves them, especially a change of oil, spark plugs and air filter. I also advocate the use of Shell V-power for it's cleaning properties and/or off-the-shelf additives.
joan33987 wrote:
MikeT wrote: Mind you, I'm still upset at the fact my number plate failed last year because "the camera's might have a problem reading them".
How come? you've got mud on it, wront type of font?
On the rear plate: The perspex had lost it's shine - thus looked sort of hazy in the sun and the lettering was no longer jet black, ie slightly fading to grey but perfectly humanly readable at more than the distance specified by the driving test (with less than 20/20 vision).
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Post by myglaren »

MikeT wrote:I must be fortunate - whenever headlights needed adjusting, they reset them there and then while the machine is out. I've only seen it done a handful of times but not once have I ever had them a cause for a fail.

While it's not a great concern and an easy fix, it is interesting to note headlight aim is now no longer a free re-test item. I wonder why not? :roll:
Mine failed on the headlight aim (missing clip) when I took it back, initially they just looked at it but I insisted on putting it on the beam tester to ascertain that it wasn't going to dazzle oncoming drivers.
It was fine and they never charged, said there was no retest fee applicable.
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Post by MikeT »

myglaren wrote:
MikeT wrote:I must be fortunate - whenever headlights needed adjusting, they reset them there and then while the machine is out. I've only seen it done a handful of times but not once have I ever had them a cause for a fail.

While it's not a great concern and an easy fix, it is interesting to note headlight aim is now no longer a free re-test item. I wonder why not? :roll:
Mine failed on the headlight aim (missing clip) when I took it back, initially they just looked at it but I insisted on putting it on the beam tester to ascertain that it wasn't going to dazzle oncoming drivers.
It was fine and they never charged, said there was no retest fee applicable.
Rules changed April I think, was your MOT before then (or perhaps it's ultimately at the garage's discretion to charge or not)?
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Post by myglaren »

Yes, last September.
I think some MOT stations interpret the rules fairly freely though.
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Post by joan33987 »

I park my car on a "Public" road in front of my house which is like a parking ground and I don't have a water hose to wash my car, and it's not as good to wash your car with only a bucket with no hose to rinse off.
I only wash my car with Morrisons buy time Jet wash OR those BP car wash thingy (which broke my Radio antenna with them rollers or the drying robot)

it's bad not to have a driveway or a garage.

SO...
I have a brilliant idea!!!

I'll go to Jetwash the subframe and spray it under the car

OR to do it the skint way...

I'll go buy a toy water gun, fill it with halfrauds Car wash & wax liquid with water, spray the subframe with it and then rinse it off with plain water. Then the subframe will be "clean" and "waxed".


THEN for extra layer of protection
I will coat the whole subframe with Lithium Grease!! HA HA!!!(or should i coat it with cheapo Morrisons Multigrade 15w50 mineral oil?)
That will slow the corrosion enough..

Sounds good, don't you think?
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Post by evilally »

Check out Vactan rust converter on ebay, seems to do a good job. To derust, tap the surfaces with a small hammer to flake the corrosion off. Scrub with a wire brush, then apply a coat of Vactan. Overcoat with 3 nice even coats of hammerite. You could drive it through the dead sea and back with no problems after that.
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Post by MikeT »

myglaren wrote:Yes, last September.
I think some MOT stations interpret the rules fairly freely though.
I didn't think I'd kept it but I found the notice...

New Retest Procedure for vehicles that fail their MOT

5b ABS Warning, Exhaust Emissions and Headlamp Aim have been deleted from the list of free retest items.

Emissions!!?? That's going to bring in a lot of extra revenue. :evil:
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Post by Citroenmad »

We use a few MOT stations, i often use the main ford dealer. They pointed out my headlight before and failed the car, then adjusted the beams and passed it, all in the 1 hour test time without charging for the adjustment. Seems odd to have to fail it but i dont think any adjustments can be done during a test.

I also use a citroen specialist, who is extremely thorough.

With a list of faults like that you would be best starting to work through them. The subframe still looks solid so maybe you could treat the rust and waxoil it. Maybe paint it with some rust killing paint or something like that?

The chassis legs look pretty rust free there. Still going well with the 136K miles? Emissions look a little high, but atleast its a pass.

Certainly good advice to give the car a good drive before the test, give the brakes some use, warm the engine through and hopefully reduce the emissions, especially if a car is mainly used for short town journeys.
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