Steering Column Knackered?? - Advice

gadgetgricey · Unread post by **gadgetgricey** » 28 Feb 2010, 16:08

Driving my son to the school on Friday morning and turned to drop him off and the steering wheel started to move. Was no longer central and was moving about a cm in all directions.

Came straight home, and nicked the wife's car.

Never really done anything more mechanical than changed the brakes/oil filter changes etc, but thought I would have a look.

Took the plastic surround off, thinking it might be a bracket (or something) had worked loose and that's causing the problem. No all is fine.

Then realised that its the steering wheel alone that's moving, the "column" is still held firm. Got the steering wheel off (Nearly gave myself a black eye in the process, as the wheel was on quite tight), and now realised that its the threaded shaft that's moving.

Does this mean the entire steering column needs to be replaced, or is there an easier fix.

Can they just "go", as there was no warning that the steering had any issues. Just happened immediatly. That's what I thought the bracket, as thought something had just dropped off.

If it is the steering column, how easy is it to change for a total num nuts like myself.

Once again, thanks for any advice.

Cheers

- Dave -

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 28 Feb 2010, 16:21

Sounds like the column's top bearing has gone kaput and you'll need a
replacement. The column is fastened onto the under dash by x4 nuts
and the main bottom end is slid onto the universal swivel bar that comes
through the bulkhead and fastened by a single pinch bolt onto a captive nut.

The only big deal with swapping the column is removal of the kneepad lower
dash and extracting the ignition switch out of the column. A bit of a faff and
wriggle but this will slide out of the side tube jointing onto the main column.
Mind, it does seem you're almost there with the underdash removed already.

I can let you have a top column bare of all it's fittings bar the release
adjustment lever for the cost of the postage if you're stuck though it's off
a series 1 car - what do you drive? Looks like a s1 from the piccy.

Andrew

gadgetgricey · Unread post by **gadgetgricey** » 28 Feb 2010, 16:49

Mine's an L reg but will one fit off a P reg, as I have a breaker in the garage, that's leaking LHM fluid everywhere.

If it will fit, just concerned about taking the wheel off the P reg, as never messed with airbags before.

Thanks again.

- Dave -

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 28 Feb 2010, 17:02

As both are Series one cars Dave, they will swap without issue.

No worries with airbags. Just disconnect the battery 10 minutes before starting work.

As for storing the old airbag, just put it somewhere safe face down and all will be fine. I have one or two stored in my garage attic and I've heard no explosions from that direction just yet.

They're not as delicate as they are made out to be.

To get the airbag off the P reg, rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees from straight-ahead and locate the two airbag fixing screws accessible from the oles in the rear of the two spokes. They're Torx T30 and at an angle. They're captive so undo them until they become floppy...

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 28 Feb 2010, 17:03

As far as safety on the airbag is concerned it's a popularly referred procedure
to allow the battery to be undone for half an hour or so before messing around
with it - I've never done this mind and I'm still here...

The airbag steeringwheel column will fit without any bother onto the earlier
car with arguably the nicest Xantia steering wheel. The airbag comes off very
easily; basically you need a torx drive long enough like a screwdriver to undo
x2 screws at the 3 and 9'o clock positions of the steering wheel which releases
the fastening on the airbag - it then just undoes off an electrical connection on
the reverse of the airbag. Access is made easier by turning the whole steering
to allow a better view with the wheel 90º off normal.

Andrew

gadgetgricey · Unread post by **gadgetgricey** » 28 Feb 2010, 17:36

andmcit wrote: I can let you have a top column bare of all it's fittings bar the release
adjustment lever for the cost of the postage if you're stuck though it's off
a series 1 car - what do you drive? Looks like a s1 from the piccy.

Andrew

My apologies, should have also said Thank you for the kind offer.

Just got a bit side tracked, with the job ahead of me.

Thanks

- Dave -

RichG · Unread post by **RichG** » 28 Feb 2010, 20:14

A tip for not needing dental work removing steering wheels is to only slacken the retaining nut and leave it so that the column is just above the top of the nut. Then when you then 'persuade' the wheel to come loose from the column the nut will stop it impacting your face!

Richard

gadgetgricey · Unread post by **gadgetgricey** » 28 Feb 2010, 20:17

RichG wrote:A tip for not needing dental work removing steering wheels is to only slacken the retaining nut and leave it so that the column is just above the top of the nut. Then when you then 'persuade' the wheel to come loose from the column the nut will stop it impacting your face!

Richard

Where were you a couple of hours ago.

Got the airbag wheel to do some point this week, so cheers for that.

- Dave -

gadgetgricey · Unread post by **gadgetgricey** » 08 Mar 2010, 11:16

Well time wise the steering column change has not gone well. Not been able to do anything until this morning.

Took the steering column off the breaker, then had to refit it as I could not get the steering wheel off.

Anyway that's all done now.

Just looking for guidance regarding the plastic circular electrical ring around the column and changing the ignition.

The ring seems loose and I cant see it connected to anywhere, so is it just a case of prising it off. Dont want to break anything.

Also with the ignition switch, do I just remove the small bolt thats on the outside, and does the switch just then follow with all the cables.

As per Haynes manual, refitting is then the reverse.

Sorry to ask possibly stupid questions, just dont want to break anything.

Thanks again.

- Dave -

Chris570 · Unread post by **Chris570** » 08 Mar 2010, 11:29

the plastic ring is held in in 3 places with plastic clips, be careful as they break easily (i know)

i think the key has to put it and turned to a certain line ini order for the barrel to be removed.

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 08 Mar 2010, 11:37

Hi Dave,

yes the circular ring is just a push fit but take care sliding it off/on.
Trick for cancelling indicator is getting it in the correct orientation
though so take a note of it's position.

The single torx screw locates tge lick barrel but a jiggle of the ignition
key is required to unlock a sprung lever or pin dependent on version
which holds it in the tube.

Andrew

fred1 · Unread post by **fred1** » 08 Mar 2010, 19:44

Hi,

When this happened on my old Mk1 it was because the top bush had worked loose in the column outer tube. The first time in a car park away from home I was able to tap the bush back in and then later at home, peen over the top of the column outer tube slightly to retain it. Car did a further 200K miles to 370k after this with no problems.

You do need to take care with the slip rings though.

Regards

John