I had a chat with a local diesel specialist today.
He reckons 7psi just revving stationary should be ok[:)]
He sold me a fuel booster repair kit(£10) for my roto pump.
It could be a sod to fit as the o/f/d is on the underside of the pump[:(] but I am going to have a go to fit it in situ after removing the rad.
BX TURBO
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bernie
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 10 Apr 2001, 02:25
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David W
- Posts: 439
- Joined: 30 Apr 2001, 17:49
Bernie,
Take it from someone who has looked after loads of these engines for the past ten years...the turbo is so unlikely to be at fault. Not impossible but not likely. Removing it is a pig and you'll curse if that is a wasted job.
You need to get a long hose on your boost pressure gauge (I assume you know this is an accurate device) and tee it in so you can observe the boost in actual driving conditions...under load in 4th from 2000rpm for example.
Come back with those readings before you take off the turbo.
David
Take it from someone who has looked after loads of these engines for the past ten years...the turbo is so unlikely to be at fault. Not impossible but not likely. Removing it is a pig and you'll curse if that is a wasted job.
You need to get a long hose on your boost pressure gauge (I assume you know this is an accurate device) and tee it in so you can observe the boost in actual driving conditions...under load in 4th from 2000rpm for example.
Come back with those readings before you take off the turbo.
David
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bernie
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 10 Apr 2001, 02:25
Hi folks I'm back
David, I had already started to remove the engine when you posted so no readings.
Anyway I have now removed the turbo, It is a KKK model.
The turbine blades look ok, spins ok and no play in bearings.
However I removed the 3 allen bolts holding the waste gate but it will not part. I can get a gap of about 13mm between tubo body and waste gate mechanism .
There is a thin rod that is holding on to something, probably the actual waste gate. This disc looks like part of the body but can't be and is very sooted
Does anyone know what comes apart or can they show me an exploded diagram.
Can anyone help please?
David, I had already started to remove the engine when you posted so no readings.
Anyway I have now removed the turbo, It is a KKK model.
The turbine blades look ok, spins ok and no play in bearings.
However I removed the 3 allen bolts holding the waste gate but it will not part. I can get a gap of about 13mm between tubo body and waste gate mechanism .
There is a thin rod that is holding on to something, probably the actual waste gate. This disc looks like part of the body but can't be and is very sooted
Does anyone know what comes apart or can they show me an exploded diagram.
Can anyone help please?
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bernie
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 10 Apr 2001, 02:25
Whilst booking an mot for my Meteor diesel est. last July, I spyed a kkk turbo in the bin.
Apparently from a Rover 218 with overheated engine, they replaced with s/h engine with turbo so this one was scrap.
With a smile I took it home.
The cold side outlet port was in the wrong position so I removed the 4 bolts and old w/g pipe and moved it to the BX position and fitted the BX waste gate pipe.
I tested my old turbo waste gate by applying air pressure into the hole where the above pipe came off and you could hear a faint muffle when the w/g moved.
On trying the new turbo the w/g sounded like a healthy clonk, so i was pleased.
I've just put the engine back and the turbo sounds fine.
I'll have to wait till the end of the month to tax it for a road test.
Apparently from a Rover 218 with overheated engine, they replaced with s/h engine with turbo so this one was scrap.
With a smile I took it home.
The cold side outlet port was in the wrong position so I removed the 4 bolts and old w/g pipe and moved it to the BX position and fitted the BX waste gate pipe.
I tested my old turbo waste gate by applying air pressure into the hole where the above pipe came off and you could hear a faint muffle when the w/g moved.
On trying the new turbo the w/g sounded like a healthy clonk, so i was pleased.
I've just put the engine back and the turbo sounds fine.
I'll have to wait till the end of the month to tax it for a road test.
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Phil Probets
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 15 Jan 2004, 18:03
I have had some experience with the KKK unit.
I am reliably informed that the correct boost pressure is circa 10psi. You will only get the actual pressure when the engine is under load. Previous writers have explained this. If there is a wastegate problem the way to clear it is to place a high pressure hose (150 psi) on the inlet, you should hear a 'clicking' to show that the wastegate is operational.
There are kits available to refurbish/overhaul these units, however, you can obtain reconditioned units for about £175-£225 depending upon vehicle. I would seriously consider this option rather than do it yourself, after all, you want the best performance from the engine and you don't want to do it again too soon!
I am reliably informed that the correct boost pressure is circa 10psi. You will only get the actual pressure when the engine is under load. Previous writers have explained this. If there is a wastegate problem the way to clear it is to place a high pressure hose (150 psi) on the inlet, you should hear a 'clicking' to show that the wastegate is operational.
There are kits available to refurbish/overhaul these units, however, you can obtain reconditioned units for about £175-£225 depending upon vehicle. I would seriously consider this option rather than do it yourself, after all, you want the best performance from the engine and you don't want to do it again too soon!