V6 accumulator sphere

lexi · Unread post by **lexi** » 10 Nov 2009, 19:25

First job up on V6 mK1 Auto Xantia. Have done them on standard cars. This is different right?. Is car best on front wheel ramps or jacked and wheel off with axle stand? Healthy ticking from front so first up the sphere and then take it from there.........

Unread post by **xantia_v6** » 10 Nov 2009, 19:51

The only difference from a "standard" car is that the relief valve bolt is between the regulator and the transmission and a bit difficult to get a spanner on.

Also be prepared for the accumulator to be OK, as ticking on a hydroactive car is often a symptom of a leaking hydroactive valve. You could try pulling the hydroactive fuse and see if the tick rate drops.

lexi · Unread post by **lexi** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:01

Thanks V6. If valve is leaking will fluid be present on ground?.

Unread post by **xantia_v6** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:16

No, not unless it is leaking enough to blow off the return pipe (which occasionally happens on the rear valve). I think previous analysis here says the internal leakage is always when the valve is energised (hence stops when the fuse is pulled).

lexi · Unread post by **lexi** » 10 Nov 2009, 20:43

I see now. It would travel the leakoff pipes back into reservoir ? Just the litlle valve that normally needs renewed or the whole block?

Unread post by **xantia_v6** » 10 Nov 2009, 21:03

see this thread (there was another thread a couple of years ago I think).

lexi · Unread post by **lexi** » 11 Nov 2009, 09:02

Very interesting. Is this a long term fix ( stretching the springs) or have others found it better to bite the bullet and buy new valves?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 11 Nov 2009, 09:58

Stretching the springs is considerably cheaper Lexi

If you replace the valves with new ones, you're looking at the thick end of £300

One thing, I had to redo one of mine because it leaked. They're loctited together and it seems this acts as an LHM seal as much as anything else.

If you're changing spheres or electrovalves, there is no need to depressurise at the pressure regulator bleed screw. Just down on low and the pressure is very low anyway.

Changeing the accumulator sphere is another matter though. I would open the valve or leave the car for a few hours before trying to undo it so that any residual pressure in the system is given ample time to leak away. Else that, pump the brake pedal a few times, that'll soon discharge the accumulator.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 11 Nov 2009, 10:09

I found this on my V6, she ticked a few good times, so I suspected a regulator sphere, changed it, and the tick is almost just as regular, I ALSO noticed, when I removed my Acc sphere, it WAS NOT flat either, as I was expecting it to be..

I AM however, experiancing different ride quailities, one weekend she be nice and soft ISH for a V6, were as next she be hard...

Damm hydractive! I DO NOT like it, give me standard SX non hydractive ANY DAY! Same problem with XM's, me, well, comfort spheres would be my answer and ignore the electro valves (Ouch, ooo arrgghh, I hear some say)

However, on the same note, I Wont put comforts on the V6, or else in a corner Ill end up in a bush, hedge or a wall or even the field next door

Paul

lexi · Unread post by **lexi** » 11 Nov 2009, 10:35

Ok guys . Useful info. If valve is ticking are we straining the HP as in ignoring a flat acc sphere?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 11 Nov 2009, 11:44

lexi wrote:Ok guys . Useful info. If valve is ticking are we straining the HP as in ignoring a flat acc sphere?

Potentially yes, but a better check is to shee how long the pump takes to regain pressure. If it only "labiurs" for a very short while on each click then no worries. If it seems to be labouring for a long time then that's straining it. Luckily on the V6 it is easy to hear what the pump is up to. A strained pump will often leak around it's outlet union.

Paul, I tend to have soome agreement with your views on Hydractive! It's great when it works well though. The full answer is not to put non-hydractive spheres on and disable soft mode as you'll find it is still harder than a non-Hydractive car. The best is to put non-Hydractive corner spheres on and retain the soft mode. This makes the car float along in a very dreamy way

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 11 Nov 2009, 12:42

Have I missed the bit for keeping - or FORCING the car into softmode?

Paul

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 11 Nov 2009, 12:56

Pull out F8 (20A) in the engine bay Fusebox with ignition off. That powers down the Hydractive ECU Paul, and effectivly forces permanant hard mode.

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 11 Nov 2009, 12:57

I dont want hard mode Jim..

Id like softmode

P

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 11 Nov 2009, 15:06

Sorry Paul

You can't force soft mode as such but it is the default mode when the ignition is on. All the time the electrovalves are humming the system is soft.

Have a look at the Activa Buyers Guide for a bit on how to check Hydractive operation, ignoring the Activa bits...