litle diesel foe

neilsxm · Unread post by **neilsxm** » 08 Jan 2004, 06:36

hi all
just thought you better read this
http://www.dieselpage.com/art1110fd.htm
--neil--

Kered · Unread post by **Kered** » 08 Jan 2004, 14:26

Hi Neil
All very sensible but the spelling suggests that it is of US origin - a country not noted for its use of diesels in cars. I would guess that their diesel fuel is not as standardised regarding lubricity additives. Europe, being the home of the diesel, has much more experience than them and I don't think we need worry about lubricity standards here - unless someone knows otherwise?
Derek

Robin · Unread post by **Robin** » 08 Jan 2004, 20:32

Derek, Neil, you are both right to be aware of the problem of lubricity and yes the site is of US origin.
We have significant problems of water and bacterial decay of fuel in the marine industry and it keeps the likes of me and my colleagues busy bless it.
The issue of bacterial decay really only occurs when the fuel is stored for long periods and then the natural moisture that is in diesel condenses out in the tank just adding to the problem. The lubricity is often provided by the more volatile components so again long storage affects this. However once bio decay starts it is difficult to get rid of. A full strip down and clean out is really the only true answer.
Purchasing fuel from reputable busy garages is a sure guarantee of good diesel and keeping the fuel tank full when the car is very lightly used could be a double edged sword. Personally I would go for keeping enough in the tank to give sufficient for daily or weekly use and run the tank down to the warning light and fill up again.
Nothing more to add really. Happy dieselling[:D]
Robin

neilsxm · Unread post by **neilsxm** » 08 Jan 2004, 20:38

hi
not trying to put you off but have a look around on the internet you'll see its a bigger problem than you think [:(]
almost all diesel pump failiers are through contaminated diesel
having seen what this can do to fuel pumps i'd regually clean my tank
i know of a person who had to pay £3500 for a new diesel pump(nissan terrano) due to contaminated diesel he all ways filled up at his local garage but couldn't prove it so couldn't do anything about it(court action etc)
and since the removal of most of the sulphur in diesel the result is almost no lubrcation of the fuel pump
thats why most of the manafactures moved away from the traditional diesel pump to systems like common rail and unijet diesels
and the older pre 1999 diesels are going to be unreliable unless you look after them which also means buying addatives to kill the little beggars on a regular basis
prevention is a lot cheaper than cure
--neil--
p.s the americans how ever much i hate them
still are the leaders in most of the diesel technology
but the europians are getting there now

Robin · Unread post by **Robin** » 08 Jan 2004, 22:11

Have a look at them in colour[}:)]
http://www.nfv-gmbh.de/sites/englisch/diesel.html
Robin
PS heres another http://www.soygold.com/diesel-success_story.htm

oilyspanner · Unread post by **oilyspanner** » 09 Jan 2004, 01:15

We sailing blokes encounter the little bleeders more often afloat than in the car probably due to fuel retention time (I have 60 gallon fuel capacity and use half a gallon per hour when not under sail, some of my fuel must date back to the early 90s!) Additives are available to prevent growth but I believe once infected the stripdown and clean out is the only option, good filtration helps as they often seem to block the filters rather than reach the pump/injectors, good water prevention/removal is key as they grow in the interface between fuel and water at the bottom of the tank, Additives such as Water Stop which contain solvents to make water and diesel miscible are a good idea, A mate got a bad batch in Ireland a couple of years ago and ended up wit ha dead engine in mid Irish sea! at least in the car we can roll to the kerb!
Stewart

Kowalski · Unread post by **Kowalski** » 09 Jan 2004, 14:53

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by neilsxm</i>

thats why most of the manafactures moved away from the traditional diesel pump to systems like common rail and unijet diesels
and the older pre 1999 diesels are going to be unreliable unless you look after them which also means buying addatives to kill the little beggars on a regular basis
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
That is utter rubbish.
Manufacturers changed from mechanical injection to electronically controlled common rail so that they could have better controlled injection which makes the emissions cleaner and gives a quieter engine, it had nothing to do with fuel lubricity or water contamination. There is still a fuel pump and injectors that can be affected by contaminants in the fuel.
As for pre-99 diesels being unreliable, pre-99 (i.e. mechanical injection) diesel technology has been around for some time and is considered to be reliable, more reliable than common rail in fact, since there are not the same quantity of electrical connections and electronic components. How many diesel Fordson Majors (or other diesel tractors of that age) do you see still working today and how often do they break down because of bacteria in their fuel tanks?
Water borne fuel eating bacteria are nothing new, they've been around for years, it's just more recently that diesel cars have become more common that they are more in the public eye.

nick · Unread post by **nick** » 09 Jan 2004, 15:57

My mum has a 1960 Fordson Dexta diesel tractor which looked as though it hadn't been serviced for about 25 years when she first bought it. I changed the diesel filter which was full of black gunge, but this hadn't appeared to affect the running or reliability in any way!
Modern common rail systems seem to have made diesels less reliable and require more careful servicing than the older mechanical pump type.
Nick

JohnCKL · Unread post by **JohnCKL** » 11 Jan 2004, 09:25

Does Xantia 1.9TD fuel tank drain completely from the bottom or does it have some space where water and sludge accumulates?

radar · Unread post by **radar** » 12 Jan 2004, 05:26

Hi All,
on the subject of fuel and economy and pump types ....
these fuel saver devices that are preached on those digi shopping channels
Magnets that clamp over fuel lines to break up the molecular structure to help increased burning and lower emissions
IS IT TRUE
do they work ??
some one on here must have tried it ???
CU
RADAR

Kowalski · Unread post by **Kowalski** » 12 Jan 2004, 15:05

The laboratory tests that the US Government carried out seemed to indicate that none of the "magic" fuel saving devices actually worked. The devices included magnetic devices, catalysts and air bleed devices.
If they actually worked, the car business being as competitive as it is, every car manufacturer would incorporate the principles of the devices into their designs.

davek-uk · Unread post by **davek-uk** » 12 Jan 2004, 17:31

I tried a Bioflow device some years back on a 3.5l V8 Land Rover 110 and didn't notice any difference at all. The unit was returned within their 30 day money back guarantee. Some people seem to think these magnetic units make a difference but I'm not one of them.

uhn113x · Unread post by **uhn113x** » 12 Jan 2004, 18:32

Magic charms to put in your tank
These things only work if you believe in them - I don't.
Don't forget, snake-oil salespersons were around long before cars were invented, and always will be. cf magnetic bracelets that will cure anything from piles to ingrowing toenails.
Has anyone ever explained how they are SUPPOSED to work? Or did someone just try it on the offchance? Answers on a four pound note, please