Sheered a bolt - oh bugger

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 02 Jul 2009, 18:56

I've refitted Juliet's roll corrector, however to do so I had to remove the arms which connect to the wishbones.
The N/S was fine, but the other has sheered it's head off.
It looks pretty rusted in place.
Any ideas?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 02 Jul 2009, 19:23

Is that the bolt that secures the rod to the wishbone, the one that bolts through the eye of the rod?

Not much alternative really to drilling out the remains of the old bolt and retapping the hole. The wishbone will have to come off in all possibility...

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 02 Jul 2009, 19:31

Poop.
There is about 7mm of the bolt sticking out still...

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 02 Jul 2009, 20:36

Ahh, that's not such a problem then

Pop the wishbone off and an application of the magic fluid and some TLC should sort it

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 02 Jul 2009, 22:51

"Pop the wishbone off" you've been reading the Book of Lies too much jim

How easy is it really to do given there's a lot of rusty bits in the area?

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 02 Jul 2009, 23:58

Soak all the fasteners well, and you've a fighting chance. UK people seem to like Plus Gas, while we have the Wurth "Rost-Off" for similar applications.

Got a propane torch? Heat will draw solvents in, and possibly help break a corrosion bond. Don't worry about the slight burning of your penetrant.

FWIW the non-Activa arms appear to have a little divot where the others are drilled and tapped. DIY might be an option. The only caveat being, nobody has measured the pivot-ball stud length to check they're identical.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2009, 12:57

Xac wrote:"Pop the wishbone off" you've been reading the Book of Lies too much jim

Sorry Xac

You know me and my massive understatement at job difficulty

sans rust the job is this: Split the botton swivel joint, remove the front bush bolt, remove the two P bush bolts and enjoy the task of getting the wishbone out. You may find you need force the ARB down a tad.

As long as you soak everything well, it should be all OK. I say remove the wishbone as it'll be a lot easier to work on the stub of the broken bolt.

I'll advocate lots of Plus-Gas and then a good application of heat.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 03 Jul 2009, 13:25

I'm thinking it may be easier/safer to get under there with my power drill and carefully drill the remains out, starting with a small bit, and working my way up to remove the core of the bolt.

KP · Unread post by KP » 03 Jul 2009, 14:43

If you have a decent amount of bolt left why not use a junior hacksaw on it and get a slot into it and use a nice flat blade screwdriver on a ratchet to get some leverage on it once its soaked over night with some plus gas and had about 1min of heat in the morning and left to cool for a bit??

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 03 Jul 2009, 22:30

The gods are against me.
Just as I was about to finish, the drill bit snapped up inside the perfect hole I'd just made.
Grrr.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 04 Jul 2009, 22:01

The gods are smiling up me

Managed to drill out the broken bit, and most of the original bolt, then re-cut the thread and fitted a suitable new bolt.
Re-cut the thread on the other wishbone to clean it up and both links are now on

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 05 Jul 2009, 11:13

Xac, that's brilliant news. I was thinking (and all prepared) for some heavy engineering in your direction involving welders, heat and lots of releasing fluid.

Go to the top of the class sir, sterling work

Mike, look in Xac's thread on his being on the tilt and you'll see two versions of the official words on how to set up the roll corrector.