'97 berlingo 1.9d Driveshaft replacement

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berlingo_neil
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'97 berlingo 1.9d Driveshaft replacement

Post by berlingo_neil »

Hello folks,

As the the title suggests, i have a driveshaft that's started clicking nicely as of this morning... I've had a look in the book of lies, but i'd rather ask someone on here that's had first hand experience!!

It's the o/s (drivers) - which is IIRC the longer? of the two. I certainy wouldn't class myself as a spanner twirling hero, but i do have a little know how & common sense.

Any help, or pointers will be gratefully received!

cheers, Neil
citronut
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Post by citronut »

they are not that hard to remove/fit, the hardest part is undoing the intermediate bearing retaining bolts, these are special bolts with a hocky stick shaped head, once you have removed the hub nut, split the suspension and pulled the CV joint out of the hub/drive flange, you will need to drift at the colar on the gear box side of the bearing mountting to release the int bearing from the houseing,

were abouts are you as i have a brand new genuine O/S shaft for a BLING GO, part No. is 3273.6J, no ABS

im in east sussex

regards malcolm
berlingo_neil
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Post by berlingo_neil »

Hey Malcolm,

Thanks for the reply! I'd be interested, but i live in Cornwall! how much are you after & would you be prepared to send it?

Do you have both sides, or just the one?


cheers, Neil
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

hi Neil

Agree with what Malcolm says, get an 11mm Deep socket, 3/8 drive, it will make the hockey bolts quicker....

John
berlingo_neil
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Post by berlingo_neil »

Thanks for the info, John! :wink:
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

:D

oops dont forget all of the gearbox oil will fall all over you unless you have drained it first :)

get 75/80 from a stealer or a good factor, to replenish
citronut
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Post by citronut »

i dont drain first, i just keep clear of the underside of the drive outlets and have a tray undeneath to catch the 1lt of gear oil

regards malcolm
Pleiades
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Post by Pleiades »

Hi Neil.
Just as a suggestion, I would arm yourself with a new seal for the gearbox too, it's allways best to replace any seals once disturbed, it saves having to take it all apart again the week after, when you discover it leaking.

Regards
Martin.
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Post by citronut »

yep i forgot that one Martin

regards malcolm
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Post by RichardW »

You also need a 35mm deep socket and decent breaker bar to get the hub nut undone. Without that you will be going nowhere :lol:
Richard W
the_weaver
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Post by the_weaver »

The hub nuts can be difficult to undo. When I did my ZX I had to buy a 3/4 inch drive short breaker bar and socket and then I used a piece of scaffolding pole as well for extra leverage. Eventually it came undone with a bang and a cloud of black dust. It was a mixture of brake dust and rust which was holding the nut on. Spraying the nut with brake cleaner followed by Plus Gas should help get it off if it's a problem.

Another thing I would recommend is to place a chock or a brick up against the tyre so that you're undoing the nut against the chock. If you don't use a chock then when you try to undo the nut a lot of the force that you're putting on the bar will be lost as it compresses the suspension. The chock takes the springiness out and the nut will undo easier.

Paul
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Post by dnsey »

If the hub nut is very stubborn, you can arrange things so that the end of the breaker bar is on the ground, and VERY carefully move the car under power to start the nut!
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