ebay Suspension repair kit - heads up

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 28 Jan 2009, 20:26

The suspension repair kit (for the Hydractive and Activa diodes) is back on ebay. The seller tells me the kit now has improved connectors (Posi-tap instead of Scotchlock), but is otherwise identical.

Yes, I know you can make your own if you're handy with a soldering iron, but I'm not!

I'm hoping to fit mine this weekend (just in case).

Link here. I have no connection with the seller by the way!

James

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 28 Jan 2009, 21:50

I fitted one of these ages ago to Gareth's Activa James. I actually trialled the "posi-taps" for Roy of e-crofting on that one. They are good and far better than those hateful Scotch-Loks.

It's good and as you say, if you're not happy soldering, it's spot-on.

I wrote all about it in an old thread. Must be getting on for 18 months ago now.. I'll see if I can dig it out...

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 28 Jan 2009, 21:58

I remember reading it Jim. I was naturally sceptical about such a device before that! Given that Gareth's Activa is identical to mine (except his will be MUCH shinier!) mine might benefit too. I don't know what it is, but something in the roll correction isn't quite right. The constant lean to the left is a clue, hence:

Finally got around to ordering some Activa parts today - the rear engine mount (as documented by andmcit), and new control rods and bushes. The control rods are on back-order. I'm dreading the phone call saying they've been discontinued...

James

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 28 Jan 2009, 22:04

Here is the thread James

There is also another thread on the same subject linked within the first thread.

Excellent on the parts! You'll be pleasantly surprised what a difference new rods and guide blocks make

You also need a Lexia session to clear the invetable stored faults in the Hydractive ECU afterwards. That alone seems to make a difference to handling and feel...

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 28 Jan 2009, 22:13

The guy at the local garage I use reckons he might be able to borrow a Lexia. But before that, the steering needs sorting.

The wheel is constantly off-centre, to the right. It's worse towards the kerb than the centre of the road, as would be expected. The car doesn't actually PULL to the left though, it's just like the steering wheel has been put back wrongly. Alternatively, it could be the tracking...

As a non-mechanic, I don't know if the steering wheel can be replaced in any position. If it can, I'd imagine it's been put back incorrectly by Citroen Manchester when they did the heater matrix. I imagine this because the passenger-side wiper is FAR too low as well!

Is it possible to change the steering wheel position by removing and refitting it? Or does it fit into a particular alignment (possibly with the sensor?).

Sorry for drifting off-topic a bit, but I like to know what's going wrong, even when I don't fix it myself!

James

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 29 Jan 2009, 16:56

superloopy1 wrote:Hi James ... you wouldn't happen to have a list of the part numbers ordered for the control rods and bushes would you?

Certainly have:

The guides are 527360. 2 required at £2.79+VAT each.
Left control rod is 527337, right is 527338. Both at £15.27+VAT.

James

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 30 Jan 2009, 12:51

James,

Your off centre steering...

Sorry, been meaning to answer this for a couple of days now

Generally, it's because the people who last did the tracking did not do it right last time. It's imperitive they lock the wheel in the straight-ahead position before adjusting the tracking. Normally they use a device that sits against the seat to hold the wheel steady.

I'd advise against moving the steering wheel itself; you're curing the symptom but not the underlying problem.

It won't affect the steering angle sensor though. That one is self-calibrating. It looks at it and assumes that if a considerable time is spent with the steering wheel in one position that position is the straingt-ahead position given that most drivers don't spend their time going around in circles...

It's possible that if you did 20 or so laps of a roudabout it might then assume that to be straight-ahead and get confused....

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 30 Jan 2009, 14:10

Thanks for that Jim - I'll get it checked. The receipts show that it was last done by K*ik F*t!

Fitted the suspension box today. Not difficult at all (can't be if I managed - I've not wielded so much as a spanner at a car for about 4 years!), although I did lose the bottom of one of the Posi-taps.

Luckily, there were spares in the kit. I couldn't identify the numbers on one of the wires either, which was a problem until I realised all 3 were grey, and I could see the numbers on the other 2!

I've only been for a quick drive, but it feels smoother. I've an idea that the back valve wasn't switching properly, since repairs in the road surface have been felt strongly (even making the CD changer jump sometimes).

The thread you linked to above (which I hadn't actually seen before) was a great help.

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 30 Jan 2009, 14:32

Having seen first hand the effect that a defective Hyractive valve has upon a Hydractive ECU (fault codes galore and blown components inside the ECU) I do wonder whether simply adding new diodes will be of much value other than to act as a preventative measure for the future life of the ECU

.

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 30 Jan 2009, 23:27

DickieG wrote:Having seen first hand the effect that a defective Hyractive valve has upon a Hydractive ECU (fault codes galore and blown components inside the ECU) I do wonder whether simply adding new diodes will be of much value other than to act as a preventative measure for the future life of the ECU .

I've read this a few times Richard. Are you saying that at the very least, the ECU needs clearing by Lexia (assuming there were faults logged - likely by all accounts), and that the ECU may be badly damaged anyway if the diodes have been faulty for a long time? Would this show on a Lexia?

I'm not convinced mine was in need of the fix, although it seemed a little harder than when I bought it. But that was only 3 months ago!

Thanks for any wisdom shared!

James

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 31 Jan 2009, 00:05

I presume the electrovalve's driven by a transistor-amplified signal output in the suspension ECU - this would tally with Jim's observation of the 1kHz square waveform.

Can imagine the tranny blowing when faced with an enduring load beyond its capacity (is this where the blocking action of the diodes comes into play?), but that ought to be fairly fixable unless the whole lot is epoxy potted or similar.

Regards, Adam.

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 31 Jan 2009, 08:57

Sl4yer wrote:
DickieG wrote:Having seen first hand the effect that a defective Hyractive valve has upon a Hydractive ECU (fault codes galore and blown components inside the ECU) I do wonder whether simply adding new diodes will be of much value other than to act as a preventative measure for the future life of the ECU .
I've read this a few times Richard. Are you saying that at the very least, the ECU needs clearing by Lexia (assuming there were faults logged - likely by all accounts), and that the ECU may be badly damaged anyway if the diodes have been faulty for a long time? Would this show on a Lexia?

In a word yes! When one of the electrovalves spiked my ECU it killed a component called (IIRC) a PN03 resistor which rendered the ECU useless. The ECU also logged just about every possible fault available and on a Hydractive ECU faults can only be cleard by using a Lexia, Proxia or ELIT, so simply fitting new diodes (or the repair kit) would not have brought the ECU back to life. I managed to get hold of some PN03's and managed to solder a new one in, but even then with all the faults logged the suspension still wouldn't have worked correctly until I cleared those faults with my Lexia.

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 31 Jan 2009, 09:29

Not a TO-3 Transistor?

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 31 Jan 2009, 10:06

No it is small square shaped with five wire 'prongs'.