How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump

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Martin Beevers
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Post by Martin Beevers »

Kev, any good diesel specialists can supply them for you. about 12 quid for a set mate.
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Post by stuartadair »

Clearly shows the value of pre-heating veg oil via a VOW2 heater.
I run a Transit 30K pa on 75% - 95% veg oil but preheated so it goes as thin as diesel so there is no pressure on the pump.
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Post by CitroJim »

I've added a couple of new pages to the guide..

To show the mechanical timing device differences compared to the semi-electronic pump used in the main strip sequence.

And the tricky reassembly bits. In particular, this shows how to re-engage the throttle linkage and put the lid back on.
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Re: How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump

Post by MikeT »

citrojim wrote:Here is the guide. It's on a slow link and the pictures may take a few moments to load...

http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm
Jim, would you say it's possible to de-armour while in-situ? I can't determine exactly which bolts need to come out. On the car, I can only see 5 or 5 but from your pictures, it looks like there's 7, maybe 8 total? How many of them are anti-tamper?
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Re: How to Strip a Bosch Diesel Injection Pump

Post by XantiaMan »

MikeT wrote:
citrojim wrote:Here is the guide. It's on a slow link and the pictures may take a few moments to load...

http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm
Jim, would you say it's possible to de-armour while in-situ? I can't determine exactly which bolts need to come out. On the car, I can only see 5 or 5 but from your pictures, it looks like there's 7, maybe 8 total? How many of them are anti-tamper?
You wont be able to take them out in-situ, the pump needs to be placed in a secure vice with plenty of access or you will risk damaging the pump or yourself....
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Post by MikeT »

I forgot to mention, I have not refitted anything to the cylinder head other than the glowplugs. No fuel pipes or lines, no leak-offs, no induction hoses, no thermostat housing no fuel filter etc, just the oil filler neck and dipstick. Otherwise is access is pretty good. 8)
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Post by MikeT »

Do I assume from the lack of replies you're all in agreement with Gareth? I'm almost certain I've read a post (from citronut and others?) claiming to have succeeded without removing the pump and I don't like to take no for answer so am going to try anyway - I'm not worried about hurting myself, the body self-repairs but I am wary of damaging the pump so advise would be most gratefully recieved.

I have identified two security bolts and have begun to ground off one of them but with a battery powered dremel-type tool, it's going to be very long-winded affair.

On the other hand, how easy/difficult is it to remove the pump considering it's only attached to the cambelt and it's mounting bolts now?
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Post by CitroJim »

Mike,

Gareth is right,

It's impossible (rpt IMPOSSIBLE) to de-armour a Bosch in-situ.

I'm sorry, I meant to reply to this post a few days ago.

In fact, it's b*****y hard enough and fraught with danger to de-armour one on the bench.

I'd rather de-armour a Lucas!!!
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Post by XantiaMan »

MikeT wrote:Do I assume from the lack of replies you're all in agreement with Gareth? I'm almost certain I've read a post (from citronut and others?) claiming to have succeeded without removing the pump and I don't like to take no for answer so am going to try anyway - I'm not worried about hurting myself, the body self-repairs but I am wary of damaging the pump so advise would be most gratefully recieved.

I have identified two security bolts and have begun to ground off one of them but with a battery powered dremel-type tool, it's going to be very long-winded affair.

On the other hand, how easy/difficult is it to remove the pump considering it's only attached to the cambelt and it's mounting bolts now?

Does seem like everyone agrees ;)

The armour is designed to not be removed with the pump in situ for a good reason, even with perfect access its not easy. With your engine stripped down why not take 30 mins to remove the pump? Will save lots of time that way.
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Post by CitroJim »

Absolutely, in that state it really is a quick job. No need even to remove the cambelt, just lock the sprocket with BOTH M8 bolts and the pump can be pulled off leaving the sprocket, belt and cam timing intact. Just waht for the houdini-like woodruff key :twisted:

By far the most tricky job is getting the lower mounting nut and washer off. As long as you have a 13mm Half-Moon spanner, some rag, some Blu-Tak and a dose of Citronut's percywhatsit, it's doable.

For even better access that makes the job a doddle, tilt the HP pump out of the way. As you'll not have the auxillary belt on at this time, that's not difficult.

Pray Mike, why do you want to de-armour the pump? Do you want to get at the mythical "Power Screw"?

Even if you have the pump off, You'll find it very hard to do yourself. Best even then to get a diesel specialist to de-armour it. There is a risk, when de-armouring, that you'll break the pumping element. You then have to replace the element and the distributor head (the big cast-iron bit)as they're a mached pair, lapped together. So effectively, if you do do damage it's Goodnight Vienna for the pump. Whilst you have it de-armoured, replace all the seals.
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Post by MikeT »

No offence but my philosphy is I don't believe anything is impossible but as you're both advising removal is easiest, I'll explore that route, thanks. I admit, I was being lazy thinking cambelt removal was necessary but glad to know it isn't :)

Yes, I want access to the max fuel screw. I did tweak the on-boost fuelling before it came off the road but it made no noticeable difference. Considering the inlet was restriced with EGR goo, I was surprised I couldn't get it to produce black smoke, indicating a rich mix.
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Post by XantiaMan »

Tweaking the smoke adjustment screw often does nothing, its the adjustments underneath the screw that make all the difference and then fine tune it after with the smoke screw.

My armour is off but ive left the max fueling untouched, the slightly increased boost and other minor adjustments give it enough performance for everyday driving. Considering i drive an Activa i dont think its a slow car in comparison, make of that what you will but going to the hassle just to get to the screw is IMHO, a waste of time unless your pump is leaking at the same time.
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Post by CitroJim »

MikeT wrote:No offence but my philosphy is I don't believe anything is impossible
My philosphy precisely Mike but there are times.. Nothing is impossible but some things are just so difficult as to be not worth the effort. The rick is then to find an easier way and in this case it's easier to remove the pump!!!

Now, that max fuel screw. What it does is adjust the fuel delivery cut-off point and yes, it will increase high-end fuelling but there is a danger. The screw effectively adjusts the high speed end of the governor range and the risk is that if you go too heavy on this screw, the fuel delivery is such that the engine is at severe risk of overspeeding. Adjust this screw with extreme care. It's not for fun that Bosch see fit to hide this screw behind armour; they did not need to but did it deliberately. On a non-armoured pump, the screw is locked with a crimped collar. The equivilent screw on the Lucas has a lead seal around it.

Don't under-estimate the catastrophic effects an overfuelled diesel can have. Black smoke is the least of your worries Mike. Play with the governor too much and kabooomm - goodnight Vienna!

The on-boost fuelling screw on top of the LDA is safe. It just makes the thing smoke as it works with the governor rather than against it.

The overall fuel delivery profile of a Bosch pump is not controlled solely by the max power screw; rather it is a function of the camplate profile and return spring pressure that controls the overall stroke of the pumping element.

I have a very good PDF on exactly how these pumps work Mike. Send me an email and I'll send it to you. It'll be very interesting bedtime reading!

EDIT: The only correct adjustment for the max power screw is that the engine just achieves max revs (i.e. redline) off load with the throttle on the floor. Go too wild and the MOT tester will blow the engine to bits doing the smoke density test!
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Post by MikeT »

Haynes says to remove three front and one rear nut but I can't see the third front, is it underneath the pump?

EDIT: Yes it is, now I can see why it might be helpful to rotate the HP pump! As it's got solid metal pipework, does that mean uncoupling those first and, I assume the aux belt has to come off too?
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Post by CitroJim »

It is right under the pump body Mike, almost impossible to see and feel. You'll need a "half-moon" ring spanner to get on it and put loads of rag underneath to catch it as it falls.

You'll also need a puller for the sprocket.

These are the pukka tools:

Image

This is my puller in use:

Image

What it looks like:

Image

And the dimensions to make one.

Image

Very hard to pull the sprocket off the taper without one. Dead simple to make though :D
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