Hello Gents
Just added HydraFlush (Total) on my 1997 V6 Activa and noticed that the timeframe is now just under 5 sec...(prior to HydraFlush about 30 sek.) until the pressure warning lights shuts off.
It looks like its ready, when the light come off, but i can feel that the car is still on its way up, slowly.. but still upwards toward the drive position.
Is this "normal" while HydraFlushing ?
This product really looks very thin, maybee its because of the thin viscosity that the start-up sequence is altered
The propper/thorough Citrobics..how to do this ?? I read about this in the forum, but how to do a propper Citrobics, only have 2 places to set the knob, just go for Low to High, and back to low and thats it ??
Help
Have a nice weekend
HydraFlush issue
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Exhume.dk
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addo
- Sara Watson's Stalker
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I would think you should bleed the brakes until the hydraurincage fluid comes through, also.
For the car exercise, going between extremes of lever travel (fully lowered to locked solid at full height) is all you are wanting to do.
The warning light goes off when adequate pressure is reached; sort of a threshold amount. After that pressure is attained, the system is considered capable of driving/steering/braking without further delay. After all, nobody gets far before the suspension is up that last 30mm!
Regards, Adam.
For the car exercise, going between extremes of lever travel (fully lowered to locked solid at full height) is all you are wanting to do.
The warning light goes off when adequate pressure is reached; sort of a threshold amount. After that pressure is attained, the system is considered capable of driving/steering/braking without further delay. After all, nobody gets far before the suspension is up that last 30mm!
Regards, Adam.
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CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
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I must say, in all the times I've Hydraflushed, I've never noticed this to any great extent. Did you give the LHM reservoir filters a clean? If you did, that may well account for it. Nice clean filters help enormously.
One thing I've noticed about Hydraflush is that it has a little higher viscosity than LHM and this may partially account for it too. I use used filtered Hydraflush for testing and flushing diesel pumps and I first noticed the viscosity difference when I fist used it for that.
Another thing I've noticed is that new LHM (and by extension, new Hydraflush) works so much better than old, tired LHM. This came home to me very clearly when I did an LHM change on my old "sinking" Xantia. On old LHM it would sink very fast after switch-off but with new, fresh LHM it stayed up for considerably longer. I expect you'll see the STOP lamp gradually take longer to go off as the Hydraflush starts to wear and loose its freshness.
My Activa takes about 20s to extinguish the STOP lamp after a few days rest but will hold pressure for an hour or so after switch-off and the STOP lamp then goes out instantly.
One thing I've noticed about Hydraflush is that it has a little higher viscosity than LHM and this may partially account for it too. I use used filtered Hydraflush for testing and flushing diesel pumps and I first noticed the viscosity difference when I fist used it for that.
Another thing I've noticed is that new LHM (and by extension, new Hydraflush) works so much better than old, tired LHM. This came home to me very clearly when I did an LHM change on my old "sinking" Xantia. On old LHM it would sink very fast after switch-off but with new, fresh LHM it stayed up for considerably longer. I expect you'll see the STOP lamp gradually take longer to go off as the Hydraflush starts to wear and loose its freshness.
My Activa takes about 20s to extinguish the STOP lamp after a few days rest but will hold pressure for an hour or so after switch-off and the STOP lamp then goes out instantly.
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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Exhume.dk
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Excellent..good stuff, both of you
@addo
I would think you should bleed the brakes until the hydraurincage fluid comes through, also.
Just made that bit today, and with factory rims, you can forget about wenting from the outside i might add
So wheel off, block the trailarm up to release the brake valve open, one wheel at a time.
@citrojim
In fact i read the excellent guide, and used some aerosol degreaser for the filter-job, it was black sludge fest, but the LHM was (looked)as new, clean and green.
The trick of taking the entire box out, then clean and inspect is nice and userfriendly, had a littel concern when the shortened stop light fase though.
Once again, good stuff, helped me alot
@addo
I would think you should bleed the brakes until the hydraurincage fluid comes through, also.
Just made that bit today, and with factory rims, you can forget about wenting from the outside i might add
So wheel off, block the trailarm up to release the brake valve open, one wheel at a time.
@citrojim
In fact i read the excellent guide, and used some aerosol degreaser for the filter-job, it was black sludge fest, but the LHM was (looked)as new, clean and green.
The trick of taking the entire box out, then clean and inspect is nice and userfriendly, had a littel concern when the shortened stop light fase though.
Once again, good stuff, helped me alot