97 Xantia TD needs new spheres

[ohms]

Hi guys,

My 97 P reg Xantia TD Dimension LX needs 4 new spheres, it's getting a bit choppy.
I noticed that they list hydractive and non-hydractive...What's the difference, and any ideas which my TD needs??:)

Also, is there a comfier option available than the standards? Would rather have the ride nice and soft. 8)

[Xaccers]

If it's an LX then it should be non-hydractive.
Easy way to check is to look at the metal pipes going into the front suspension spheres at the top.
If they're small then it's non-hydractive, if they're about 6mm across then it's hydractive.

It would be worthwhile checking when the rear centre sphere (known as the anti-sink because it's fitted to cars with anti-sink valves) and the front centre (accumulator) were last checked.
Easy way to see if you need a new accumulator (it's your emergency brake pressure so very important) is to have the car running and listen for it ticking.
If the ticks are less than a minute apart, it's time for a new accumulator sphere and most likely time for a new anti-sink sphere.

Sphere changing is easy with either a pleides tool or a home made tool (see my guide here)

Don't forget for the rear spheres because they tend to be tight, set the car on high supported by axle stands and load the boot up with friends, then use the tool to just loosen the sphere a crack before setting it on low and depressurising the system to remove the spheres (with the axles stands supporting the rear, the car will tilt giving you plenty of room underneath). If you don't put weight in the boot and set it to high, then you risk just spinning the rear suspension struts and doing damage.

A/S sphere needs the pipe removing before you remove the sphere.

Never work under the car unless it is supported by axle stands.

[CitroJim]

If you are going to replace spheres, it would be a good idea to do the whole job of hydraflushing, cleaning filters and replacing the LHM. The difference will be astounding.

There is a full guide to the task here. Lots of words but not a difficult job at all.

As Xac says, for the accumulator and rear spheres, there is no substitute for a proper sphere tool. Most oil filter/chain/band/webbing wrenches just don't cut the mustard, especially for the rears which can both be massively tight and must be started under full system pressure. Xac's tool works exceedingly well

As for the comfort option, have a natter with Pleiades. Martin is incredibly friendly, helpful and a mine of knowledge on all matters Citroen hydraulics and can recharge your existing spheres if they have not gone past the point of no return.

I say it again. Support the car firmly before venturing under. Xantias can KILL if the suspension suddenly collapses and you're underneath it unsupported.

[Old-Guy]

Using Jim's excellent guide, I recently did the complete job for the first time. Jim subsequently suggested another useful time-saver: loosen the pipe on the A/S sphere, crack off the A/S sphere itself, then hold the pipe's flare nut while unscrewing the sphere - a 2 for 1 offer!

The rear spheres WILL be unbelievably tight - you really DO need a special wrench.

My post in Jim's thread mentions removing the hydraulic pipe retainer from the side of the tank - I should have added this photo



Note the shiny new sphere in the background!

To change all 6 spheres, change the LHM, clean hydraulic tank and filters and bleed the brakes thoroughly took me less than 5 hours in total. The brakes will need bleeding to remove ancient LHM and a good Citarobics session to get any air out of the suspension lines too.

YES the ride and handling have been transformed - but now the N/S/F rollbar drop-link needs replacing!

[DickieG]

Wow, that's one hell of an Avatar
Edit; well it was a minute ago

[Old-Guy]

Oops - wrong version!