ZX Glow plug access!?!?!

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 10:30

Hi,

I've got myself a ZX 1.9TD and it starts up stuttery and smokey, fine after light revving for 30 seconds so decided to start at the glow plugs.

I took the intercooler bolts out and tilted it up out of the way and managed to change 3 glowplugs but how the hell do you get to the one on the far left behind the bosch pump?

any tips or tricks much appreciated!

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Oct 2008, 10:51

it IS possible.. I have removed a few with everything in situ..

patience, dexterity, a decent 13mm spanner all help

ps i would change your car name as i am not sure you will get many replies

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 11:08

13mm??

my plugs are 12mm?

this last plug looks alot older than the other three I took out so I think its not been done in ages - someones had a go at it because there is one corner on the nut that is a bit rounded

when you say change my car name do you mean put 'Citroen' in front of ZX to get more hits??

thanks

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Oct 2008, 11:20

sorry Ishish

i meant 12mm

yep its often overlooked, that last one.. quite likely to be gone..i would keep trying if you can.. taking the injection pump off isnt horrendous but an afternoons work..

I have same problem with my car and want to check the plugs one evening this week, will let you know if I find any tricks

no i meant the name in the signiture... a garage once wrote that on a xantia keyfob when i left the car with them, wasnt happy

maybe i am sensitive

Unread post by **RichardW** » 13 Oct 2008, 12:16

You need to remove the intercooler first off - trying to do it with it in situ is bonkers

It will come off easy enough if you undo the 3 bolts at the front, 2 at the rear, and the clip onto the big pipe over the cambelt side, the sensing pipe to the injection pump, and the clipped on oil breather - just wiggle it out of the pipe, and breather and take it off. Now, you might need to remove the fuel supply pipe to the injection pump. Get a decent 12mm cranked ring spanner with a deep offset, and away you go. If you remove the glow plug next along, you can *just* reach in behind the injector pipes and get a finger tip on the plug to turn it.

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Oct 2008, 12:51

oops

sorry I meant injection pump in situ...

forgot about you top intercooler lot

yes as Rich says, definatly remove things that are easy to get off.. doesnt removing the high pressure fuel pipes help?

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 13:01

no i meant the name in the signiture... a garage once wrote that on a xantia keyfob when i left the car with them, wasnt happy maybe i am sensitive

haha! yeah I forgot I put that there! I didn't mean to offend - was having a really bad day - leaky radiator. But in fairness its not a bad description - every panel is dented, interior is a bit 'whiffy' and I use a shovel to load it up when going down the local tip

. . . but I love it because it cost me £300 and is cheap to run!

RichardW - thanks for that mate, I've just got a deep socket and a swivel ended extn. bar for the ratchet spanner so going to have a crack at it tonight.

I saw that feed pipe going into the pump from the fuel filter but it goes to a big brass coloured nut on the left hand side of the pump and didn't fancy disturbing it - is it OK to unbolt this then because I'm sure i'd get it when thats out the way?

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 13 Oct 2008, 13:05

yep unbolt the brass fuel banjo

two washers either side of it, dont loose em down the alternator etc

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 13 Oct 2008, 13:11

Maybe it's because I'm left-handed but I removed the lift-sensor plug and bracket along with the coolant pipe and found it the easiest glowplug to remove then.

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 13 Oct 2008, 13:20

Hi,
Having changed the glow plugs on a ZX TD quite a few times I know the one behind the pump (#4) is a pain to get to but it can be done.

The method I use to test the glow plugs is to disconnect the link wire from all the plugs except #4. Then use a test lamp to connect between the tip of each plug & the + of the battery...if the test lamp lights up the plug is ok.
When testing #4 plug use the link wire that is still connected to the plug as the connection point of the test lamp!... Obviously you have to make sure that the metal lugs of the link wire that normally connect to the other plugs isn't touching anything metal as this will then cause the test lamp to light!

To remove the #4 glow plug I use a standard 12mm offset ring spanner to loosen it, then a combination spanner to unscrew it....it can take a while to fully unscrew the plug as you can only get a small turn on it each time.

When replacing the plugs give the threads a light coat of copper grease that will make removal easier the next time.

Offset ring spanner.

Combination spanner.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 13 Oct 2008, 13:21

when undoing the banjo union on the fuel pump make sure you have another 17mm spanner on the hex bose that the fuel pipe banjo goes onto to stop that turnning as well

also on re/fitting the new glow plug behind the pump, i lightly twist a loop of locking wire around the neck of the glow plug so whilst aiming it back into place you dont drop it down to back of the pump

regards malcolm

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 14:39

so whilst aiming it back into place you dont drop it down to back of the pump

. . . thats where one of the other plugs went

cheers for all your help guys much appreciated!

i'll let you know how I get on and might even take a picture of the anti social no.4 plug

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 21:59

OK,

I unbolted that brass nut feed pipe and managed to get the last glowplug changed

HOWEVER,

I then connected everything back up and put that bolt back in, gave the primer pump a squeeze and started her up. Fired up no problem but after about 20 seconds it started to die and then stalled?!

had a look round and there was fuel spurting out from the washer under the head of that brass nut, so checked it was tight and made sure that the hole going sideways through the nut matched the feed pipe and tried again - cranking over but didn't start - still fuel coming out.

changed both washers either side of the black ring bit with the feed pipe on it and still no joy

another set back is that I don't have a haynes manual either

Got no car for work tomorrow but might be able to get a lift but I could really do with my car running this week.

has this ever happened to anyone before??

is there more to this brass nut thing than meets the eye??

any help much appreciated folks!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 13 Oct 2008, 22:25

That's very strange

Normally, the fuel feed pipe is under suction and to actually leak diesel at that point, the leak has to be severe.

The banjo union (so called because the ring where the pipe connects looks a bit like one if you squint) does have to be done up reasonably tighly, enough to just squeeze the copper washers each side of the banjo but normally not hugely tight.

For the seal to be effective, the washers, banjo and all mating faces must be clean. Secondly, the washers must be soft as the seal is a result of the washers deforming slightly. Sometimes they benefit from being annealed by heating them with a small blowlamp until they glow red and then quenching in water. Copper work-hardens. If it was new washers you tried, they may be too hard to be effective. I've been caught out like this in the past.

Also, are you sure it's the banjo itself leaking? If the fuel feed pipe to the banjo is made of plastic tube, this goes hard over the years and if disturbed, can crack at the joint and leak.

ishish8 · Unread post by **ishish8** » 13 Oct 2008, 22:53

Yeah I first thought that it was the tightness of the nut pressing on the copper washers - so I took it off and the copper looked a little warped from tightening it down, just to the point where its nipped up tight enough, not wheel nut tight or anything.

Had a quick look at the bolt just now and there seems to be some thread damage but just at the top of the thread, nearest the hole that goes through.

Does that hole going right through the middle have to be directly inline with the tube on the banjo to let the fuel flow or is it meant to be offset??

I'm going to a motor factors tomorrow and see if they have the bits for it.

What is that banjo piece made from?? wondering whether that might have come out of shape a little on the mating surface??

I'll try and get some fresh washers, a bolt, and possibly a banjo tomorrow and try that. I'll take some photo's of the problem too.

has anyone got a haynes manual that they could just have a sneaky peak in for me on the subject? - Just paranoid that i'm disturbing intricate fuel system parts!

It was working fine before I touched that ruddy nut!