Hydractive coming back from the dead

[ekaftan]

More small fixes for my Turbo... I found why hydractive valves were not opening... the electric cable for the rear one was disconnected. From the scratch marks on the gas tank looks like a good smack to the road caught the cabling (who routes a cable under the gas tank?)

Anyway, I reconnected it and valves now energize. Back is soft, front is soft sometimes and sometimes the front valve (fron the sound its the internal valve, not the electrovalve) starts clicking on off every half second then shuts up...

I am hoping it just cleans up itself. There must have been a lot of dirty and corroded LHM inside those parts of the circuit. In the first drive after reconnecting the valve even brakes acted funny. I still need to fix the humongous leak from the front hydractive block (a liter a month leak, most of it picked up by a pile of kitty litter in my parking space) so maybe I'll end up replacing the block with a junkyard one, maybe ficing the leak will fic the clicking, who knows...

[Mandrake]

More small fixes for my Turbo... I found why hydractive valves were not opening... the electric cable for the rear one was disconnected. From the scratch marks on the gas tank looks like a good smack to the road caught the cabling (who routes a cable under the gas tank?)

If the rear cable was disconnected it will cause not only the rear but also the FRONT electrovalve to stay in the hard mode. The computer does this for safety reasons. So either cable being disconnected will give you hard mode across the entire car.

Anyway, I reconnected it and valves now energize. Back is soft, front is soft sometimes and sometimes the front valve (fron the sound its the internal valve, not the electrovalve) starts clicking on off every half second then shuts up...

Ok, if the valve clicks on and off every half second you still have a definite fault - I've seen this before and it's usually a faulty diode inside the electrovalve. Have you done the external diode modification for the electrovalves ?

I am hoping it just cleans up itself. There must have been a lot of dirty and corroded LHM inside those parts of the circuit. In the first drive after reconnecting the valve even brakes acted funny. I still need to fix the humongous leak from the front hydractive block (a liter a month leak, most of it picked up by a pile of kitty litter in my parking space) so maybe I'll end up replacing the block with a junkyard one, maybe ficing the leak will fic the clicking, who knows...

Yes it probably will - if you replace the electrovalve too.

Regards,
Simon

[ekaftan]

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Ok, if the valve clicks on and off every half second you still have a definite fault - I've seen this before and it's usually a faulty diode inside the electrovalve. Have you done the external diode modification for the electrovalves ?

I fixed the leak today and it stays softer most of the time. It still starts clicking after it gets really hot, so I'll make the external diode modification and report.

The leak was just the small return hose from the electrovalve. A bronze fitting and some small petrol-resistant hose and its leak free. I did try to fix it cutting it a bit shorter and reattaching, but it just made it worse. I almost lost a liter in a day!