Xantia suspension fluid change @72K How much?

Mark W · Unread post by **Mark W** » 22 Oct 2003, 18:12

Have got most of the 72K service requirements done in stages. Have still to get suspension fluid changed as recommended. Could you give me a clue how much it should cost to have done at a Citroen specialist all in. I then start phoning around.
Thanks in advance
Mark W

blueboy2001 · Unread post by **blueboy2001** » 22 Oct 2003, 18:49

It should cost no more than an hours labour plus the fluid, although realistically its only half an hours work at most. Downwards of £40 would be reasonable.
That said, its such an easy job to do you can do it yourself with just a 12mm spanner and 4 litres of LHM.

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 22 Oct 2003, 20:10

To do the fluid change properly means bleeding the new fluid through the brakes to change that fluid as well. Its there that the problems can come. No problems if all the bleed nipples come undone but if one sticks . . .
Jeremy

blueboy2001 · Unread post by **blueboy2001** » 22 Oct 2003, 20:58

Very true Jeremy, but in my experience I seriously doubt a garage would bother bleeding the brakes during a fluid change.

xantiaBFY · Unread post by **xantiaBFY** » 23 Oct 2003, 09:29

very interested to bleed the brakes on my Xtd.ever since I bought it 3 months ago I have change the LHM but didn't bleed the "dead ends".
I appreciate if any of you guys can tell me the specific tools needed.
thanks

rg · Unread post by rg » 23 Oct 2003, 12:45

IMHO...(from experience with XM)
You might need: "Easy-bleed" plastic tube with non-return valve thingie (to stop air going back up system. Small cable ties to secure tube to nipple.
Spanner for bleed nipple (or hex socket even better to get it started before applying tube).
Jam jar.
Use ---Lots-- of patience, observation and care freeing off the nipple. A sheared nipple in the caliper could spoil your day (and probably week). Don't force it! Spray very carefully with "Plus Gas" or similar and come back the following day if neccessary.
Run engine and get assistant/plank of wood to depress pedal around 10mm (enough to open the valve) and keep open.
Just open the nipple slightly. If you have never bled LHM under pressure before, be prepared for a surprise. It does not dribble out like normal brake fluid under pedal pressure. Treat it with caution and respect. Dirty LHM and a few air bubbles should be seen to come out. Ride may improve. Brakes may release more easily.
Copper-grease the nipple threads BTW.
HTH
rg

xantiaBFY · Unread post by **xantiaBFY** » 23 Oct 2003, 13:54

rg,
may I know the size of hex socket?
thanks.

rg · Unread post by rg » 23 Oct 2003, 18:41

My wife has just driven off in the XM...
...I recall 8/9mm. Nothing special. Just standard bleed nipple size. I would buy a set of 1/4" drive "deep access" sockets. Not expensive and very useful.
It's worth taking the wheel off today and checking the size. Whilst you are doing that, spray some "releasing fluid" (not sure what you will call it in Malaysia) carefully around the threads of the nipple.
HTH
rg

Kowalski · Unread post by **Kowalski** » 23 Oct 2003, 19:19

My 1/2" socket set goes right down to 8mm. The breaker bar is great for shearing off small bolts / bleed nipples and the like.

xantiaBFY · Unread post by **xantiaBFY** » 24 Oct 2003, 19:44

rg/Kowalski,
thanks for the assistance.As for "releasing fluid" if it is WD40 or equivalent than its readily available here.
regards

NiSk · Unread post by **NiSk** » 25 Oct 2003, 00:22

If you can get hold of it out there, use PlusGas. There is <u>nothing </u>better. Over 40 years experience of breaking off rusted brake nipples and the like, you can throw your WD 40 and CRC 556 in the bin. This fact has even been proven in a Which? test of rust releasing agents a number of years back. Absolutely NOTHING came anywhere near PlusGas.
And no, I don't work for them!
//NiSk

BigMac · Unread post by **BigMac** » 25 Oct 2003, 05:34

My indy *never* bleeds brakes after a LHM change and - after blood/tears/curses as yet another nipple breaks off in the caliper - Im in total agreement with him. The so-called dirty fluid in the brake lines will eventually mix with the new fluid (and so on for as long as you keep the car) as you repeatedly clean filters/change fluid. Finally you get clean enough fluid even in these dead ends. Given the problems with rusty nipples etc. bleeding is simply not worth the trouble.