I just thought id relate some of the experiences of doing this as there its lots written on the subject so I thought I might suggest some tips. the usual:
1 - allow 3 days in case your set the fuel pump 3 teeth out...(see my previous post!)
2 - Take the pump off another vehicle THAT YOU KNOW WAS WORKING WELL it helps eliminate any probs with the injectors etc when you come to set it up, not off the scrappys shelf! Change the cradle as well as the pump and mark the pumps position on the cradle in 2 or 3 places to make sure you keep the correct timing.
3 - Change injectors and pipes (we all know this)
The tips that no one told me:
1 - If you have a very late model 405 or anything with a keypad immobiliser. read the following carefully. There is an electrical black box on the back of the pump that controls the stop solenoid and is connected to the immobiliser.
This foxed me to start with as when it is disconnected all the lights on the keypad come on and it dosnt work! you start to think the worse...
After some teeth sucking I realised that the key pad worked when the old pump was plugged in.
Therefore you have to drill out about 8 shear bolts on the armour plating lucas put round their more recent pumps, remove the black box, cutting the wires at he stop solenoid - Ignore the 3rd one - it appears to have no use an the bosch pump.
It takes around hour to get all the shear bolts off.
Cut the wires for the stop solenoid on the bosch pump and join to the ones for the stop solenoid to the ones coming off the lucas immobiliser pack .
Cable tie the whole lot to the bracket at the rear of the pump - bingo key pad works.
2 - the fuel return pipe will need lengthening.
3 - get some new leak off pipe! the old stuff will not be reusable.
4 - the cold start actuator cable is much shorther on the bosch, it can be trimmed down, but I would take the one off the other car that is the right length.
I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing it!!!
Oh yeah and if youve read my previous post double and triple chack your timing!!!!!
tips / experiences changing lucas pump for bosch
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fodtommo
- Posts: 39
- Joined: 09 Jul 2008, 10:23
tips / experiences changing lucas pump for bosch
Last edited by fodtommo on 29 Jul 2008, 10:00, edited 1 time in total.
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CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
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Thanks for posting this.
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citroen7
- Posts: 151
- Joined: 09 Jun 2006, 10:29
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fodtommo
- Posts: 39
- Joined: 09 Jul 2008, 10:23
not really other than i listed here.
Basically, assuming that both pumps are mechanical units (not semi electronic) then the only electrical function required by a bosch pump is the operation of the stop solenoid. Therefore I would cut the wires from the solenoid on the lucas pump and attach as described above.
The nice thing about doing it this way is that it saves chopping the cars loom up and keeps the wiring as it was before. In my experience chopping into looms in any car causes problems- much easier if your mod is limited to one connector at the stop solenoid.
Basically, assuming that both pumps are mechanical units (not semi electronic) then the only electrical function required by a bosch pump is the operation of the stop solenoid. Therefore I would cut the wires from the solenoid on the lucas pump and attach as described above.
The nice thing about doing it this way is that it saves chopping the cars loom up and keeps the wiring as it was before. In my experience chopping into looms in any car causes problems- much easier if your mod is limited to one connector at the stop solenoid.