Positioning axle stands

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 17 Jul 2008, 01:15

Where's the best place for them on a Xantia? Seems a silly question I know but I am going to have a look at my rear height corrector tomorrow and really don't want the car crushing me. So where can they go? (Pictures would be a bonus)

I know the car can collapse if not supported. What can I expect to happen if it loses pressure and it is properly supported? Just don't want any surprises

Thanks

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Jul 2008, 06:43

Hi Toby,

I always just set the car on high, jack a little if necessary on the front or rear subframe and position the axle stands on the hardened sill jacking points (i.e. between the "pips") and then let the suspension down so the car is on the stands. I always rock the car violently to ensure it is really secure on the stands and that all three feet of the stand is in good, solid contact with the ground. Only ever work on a solid concrete surface and NEVER on a tramac surface as axle stands can sink a long way into tarmac. Likewise gravel. If you must jack up and support on a tarmac or gravel surface, use a concrete slab or something like a railway sleeper under each stand to spread the load.

If the car should collapse from say, high to low when you're under it working on a height corrector say, you WILL be killed or seriously injured. A Xantia is a heavy car and on low, there is very little room under there. You just cannot be too careful and never, ever take a risk.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 Jul 2008, 08:16

with XANTs there is nothing in the centre at the rear to jack the car by, so with the car on a hard surface as Jim described, i allways put my trolley jack under one of the rear most corners of the the rear sub frame, jack it qute high and place a good solid pair of stands under each rear sub frame mounting bolt head, which you will find just in front of the rear sub frame, this method must only be used on a level surface,

the front is easyer jack in the centre of the sub frame, gently whilst whatching the rear stands dont move, then put another pair of stands one each side under the tail ends of the front sub frame, beside the bolt heads

regards malcolm

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 17 Jul 2008, 09:31

I think the last time I worked on a height corrector, I found car ramps very useful. When the car is on low there is still plenty of room under, and your safe etc...

when the car is normal, or high, theres loads of room

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 Jul 2008, 13:25

i agree with jgra1 car ramps a fine, and if you are adjustting the hights they are better

regards malcolm

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 17 Jul 2008, 14:17

Right looking at the height adjuster. the rod has popped off. Can't quite get it to reach the ball to put it back on. Any ideas?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Jul 2008, 14:34

I guess you mean the little white plastic link Toby?

Firstly, before you even try to pop it back on, ensure the height corrector mechanism is not seized up and is free to move. A seized height corrector is the usual reason why the link pops off in the first place. A good douse in WD40 and manual manipulation will often free them off but to do the job properly, the HC needs to come off and be subject to a good clean and lubricate. If it is really bad, you may even have to replace it. The rear really suffers as unlike the front, it does not get any fortutious lubrication from engine oil leaks...

Once the mechanism is free, one method to get the link back on is to jack up one wheel on the trailing arm or even jack up on the tyre if your trolley jack will go under. This will rotate the anti-roll bar and bring the link in line with the ball.

Do give the balls a tiny smear of grease but not too much or hydraulic action (from the excess grease) will prevent you popping the link on or may break the link.

Once all is happy, give the mechanism a real good soak in light grease. I find the grease that comes in aerosol cans good for HC lubrication but it does need fairly frequent reapplication. Don't overdo it though as the MOT man may fail the car, believing the HC is leaking!

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 17 Jul 2008, 16:01

No luck today. Going to look at a BoL I d/l on t'internet. See about taking the whole mechanism off. Is fairly free of grease atm and think it would be better to put some on.

Problem I am having is I have no ramps to put weight on the back wheels. Am sure a couple of jacks would solve this but I figure there's no point today if the HC needs taking off for a clean.

Once I've got this done can start thinking about sphere replacement etc.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Jul 2008, 17:43

For this kind of HC work, you're better off with the rear end up on stands Toby, at least you then have the wheels clear of the ground to enable you to jack them up and down to get the link in the right place to pop back on.

If you do have the whole HC off, you must replace the three 3.5mm hydraulic seals on the pipes and a high quality hex 8mm flare nut spanner and Plus-Gas is ESSENTIAL to remove the hydraulic pipe unions successfully.

If you don't have these items, don't attempt to undo the hydraulic unions as you risk rounding off the nuts. They're very tight and will be a bit corroded in place due to dissimilar metal reaction against the steel of the union and the aluminium of the HC body.

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 17 Jul 2008, 18:13

Thanks Jim, methinks I won't be taking it off then. Will just douse it in WD40 and chuck a bit of grease on the ball.

Can't get anything under the wheels. None of the jacks I have go underneath them. Any suggestions?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 17 Jul 2008, 19:11

Toby_HDi wrote: None of the jacks I have go underneath them. Any suggestions?

Yep, no problem. Use a baulk of wood on the trailing arm and jack up on that to position the anti-roll bar. It's the technique we Activa owners use to position the rear ram for bush replacement.

failing that, pop off the wheel to give you some more space but don't jack on the brake disc or hub as it'll spin and throw tha jack.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 17 Jul 2008, 19:13

Toby_HDi wrote:Right looking at the height adjuster. the rod has popped off. Can't quite get it to reach the ball to put it back on. Any ideas?

Lever the HC arm to align the plastic cup. Always replace the plastic arm as they wear and will just keep popping off. About £1.20 from Citroen, oddly enough.

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 17 Jul 2008, 19:22

citrojim wrote:....but don't jack on the brake disc or hub as it'll spin and throw tha jack.

exactly what the wheel did earlier!!. threw the jack right at my hand. (2ton hydraulic jack)

MikeT, thanks for that. I wonder, if I could get it over to Christchurch whether you could give me a hand and advise me? Hope you don't think I'm being cheeky.

Thanks

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 Jul 2008, 19:35

i use a block of wood on the jack head and across the calliper and disc hub, you must position this right so when the arm is fully jacked up the jack head is nearly right under the calliper, this way the calliper bites into the wood,

regards malcolm

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 17 Jul 2008, 20:34

Toby_HDi wrote:MikeT, thanks for that. I wonder, if I could get it over to Christchurch whether you could give me a hand and advise me? Hope you don't think I'm being cheeky.

I'd be happy to. If weather's good I'll be working on mine tomorrow, hopefully Saturday too but Sunday I'll not be around.