ZX 1.4I long driveshaft removal

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 26 Apr 2008, 14:40

Hi all,

I am trying to remove the off side (long) dirveshaft. It's is already to come out but it seems to be still secured in the support bearing housing.
I have of course slackened the two bolts and the nuts are almost at the end of their threads and the bolts have been twisted this way and that.
The obvious answer I presume is to take the nuts right off and withdraw the bolts.
However, Haynes says just take the nuts to the end of the thread and twist through 90 degrees.

Has anyone had this problem before and if I take the nuts right off, does this cause any re assembly problems ?

Chears,

Kristian.

Unread post by **elma** » 26 Apr 2008, 15:49

If its the same as a xantia then once youve loosened the bolts push them right in before rotating.

The little arms that hold it all in place need to move away from you in order to release and twist.

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 26 Apr 2008, 16:09

I realize how it works but though the bolts are able to move freely, it still won't come out of the gearbox.
Its as if there is another bolt holding it in place.

Unread post by **elma** » 26 Apr 2008, 17:34

Sounds like you havent got the cv joint out of the gear box then.
Has your gear box oil said hello yet?
Should be able to see if the little pins on the bolts are released if you pop under, I assume the cars properly supported already.

If they are released then sounds like some persuasion is needed, I've never had problems with that end of citroens though, it's always the hub end that gets stuck for me and thats easy. I hit it with a copper drift and a big hammer.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 26 Apr 2008, 17:41

The L-head bolts holds the intermediate bearing in place. However, the bearing itself is steel made fitted in an alloy bearing housing. Guess what happens after a couple of years salty mist down there ...

... yes, you are right ! The bearing outer shell will be like welded on to the alloy bearing housing

Using any kind of steel pushrod/chisel that can reach the bearing from behind (i.e. from diff end), give the bearing lots & lots of welly with a hammer. Its got to be replaced any way ...

Once you have finally (after lots of sweat and swearing) got the driveaxle out, remember the dirt deflector that sits just before the diff input. This will have to be refitted AFTER the drivaxle is fitted, but PRIOR to the axle mating the diff again.
You will notice there is a retaining ring to hold the bearing in place on the axle. This is usually not too hard to press out together with the bearing, using 2 strong levers on the bearing itself - working against the tri-joint cup.
The bearing is a standard industry type 6006ZZ (double capped), and MUST of course pe pressed in using forces on the inner race ONLY.
To make sure the retaining ring is up to the job, you can make a couple of punch marks on the axle itself just on the edge to the retaining ring.
Clean the ally bearing housing using emery paper and give it smear of any lube you have. The bearing/axle should slide into place using gentle forces only.

Good luck, and may patient forces be with you 8)

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 26 Apr 2008, 17:43

Clamp a large pair of mole grips tightly on the shaft between the bearing and gearbox and hammer in the direction of out.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 26 Apr 2008, 18:51

use a drift against the collar at the diff side of the bearing mountting, as AndersDK said but your drift dose not make direct contact with the bearing , as there is a meatal collar you drift against, this will not damage the bearing in any way what so ever,

make sure you have a tray under the diff to catch about 1lt of gear oil when the shaft comes out of the diff

regards malcolm

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 26 Apr 2008, 19:43

Thanks for the replies Guys,

Great ideas and I tried both, but my big problem is insufficient working hight where the car is located now. I might have to spin my 2CV side ways to get a firmer footing for the jack.

However, I do have a slide hammer with a flat plate hooked dent puller attachment.
It has been used in the past to draw a CX driveshaft out of it's circlip.
Do you think there is enough strength in the tin-can type inner joint cover to take a whacking from the slide hammer to pull it out of the bearing ?

Kristian.

Unread post by **elma** » 26 Apr 2008, 21:08

Wow, mine hadn't done that despite the car having a really rusty underside.

Good luck with it, doesn't sound like fun.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 27 Apr 2008, 00:36

you cant use the slide hammer trick on the O/S driveshaft, because all you will end up doing is pulling the intermediate triac joint appart, the only way is to drift it out as i stated earlyer
regards malcolm

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 27 Apr 2008, 09:22

I was thinking of putting the slide hammer with a hooked attachment between the pot joint and the intermediate bearing housing so I didn't pull the triac joint apart.

Kristian.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 27 Apr 2008, 11:45

KEB1 wrote:I was thinking of putting the slide hammer with a hooked attachment between the pot joint and the intermediate bearing housing so I didn't pull the triac joint apart.

Kristian.

Yaeh .... but how will you get in there if there is no room for adequate working methods anyway ?
Rule #1 working on any car (any DIY item in fact) : ALWAYS ensure you have adequate and safe workspace. Dont EVER compromise this first rule

Flick on the wheels again and pull your ZX out for a sensible workspace. You are on a fast downslip to hurt yourself and badly damage your ZX if you continue down the route you have chosen ...

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 27 Apr 2008, 12:41

Thanks Anders,

Yes, that is good advice. The obvious solution is to put it back together and try and create a better location to work.
Who would have thought changing a driveshaft would be so ruddy difficult.

All the best,

Kristian.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 27 Apr 2008, 20:34

its not difficult, just drift it out by driftting against the collar, EASY PEASY,

that is after you have followed Anders advise
regards malcolm

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 28 Apr 2008, 00:06

Please be assured that the car is securely supported in three places and both nearside wheels are chocked.
The problem is that it is only at a height to allow working through the wheel arch and not for crawling under the engine and transmission.
I was half hoping that someone knew a dodge that would allow me to carry on working this way and not have to crawl underneath to much.
Please don't worry guys, safety is my first priority and I am not exactly doing it on my own, but many thanks for your concern.
In fact I may be being too gentle with it.

Kristian.