Changing front discs and pads - advice please?

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 30 Jan 2008, 20:09

Changed discs and pads on loads of cars but the Xantia being french, has to be different, with its handbrake being on the front!

Is there anything in particular i need to look out for?

Mine is a 97 1.9TD, so it should have 266mm discs?

Gareth

deian · Unread post by **deian** » 30 Jan 2008, 20:50

From what I remember the haynes manual was quite accurate in this job.

Don't think I had to do anything with the handbrake cable except leave the handbrake off obviously.

I won't guess anymore stuff in case they are in accurate, but the xantia I changed brakes on (a v6 one) was the simplest change i've seen. I reckon you could do all four wheels (brakes/pads) in a nice hour as long as you don't get any corroded stuff.

Good luck.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 30 Jan 2008, 22:16

The torx countersunk screws that hold the discs in place on the hub may be rusted so be prepared to have to drill the heads off and remove the shafts with pliers etc.
If memory serves they're very short M6 countersunk avilable at home base, but their ones aren't short enough, so I had to trim mine (screw a nut on first so that it clears any burrs as you take the nut off once cut).

The pistons are wound clockwise back into position, it takes ages.
On ebay they have socket bits designed to fit, but a flat bar about 1cm wide will do, or use the old pads.
That's probably the worst part of the job simply because it takes so long.
It's easiest to fit the pads once the piston is fully retracted, but you can cheat a bit by doing it most of the way and lining the cut outs on the piston up with the pip on the back of the pad.

To release the handbrake cable use one pair of pliers to rotate the caliper's hand brake lever, and another to disengage the end of the cable, it's dead easy.

Don't forget to support the car on axle stands!
Jack the car up at the front after setting it on high, fit the stands, and then set it on low, as the back drops the front lifts up off the floor so you don't have to jack it too far, much easier than normal cars.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 31 Jan 2008, 08:30

its not a cheat to finnish with the slot alighned with the pip on the pad as this is what you are ment to do

also you must disconect the cable from the caliper to allow the leaver to come fully off, then once the pads are refitted start the engine and press the brake pedel hard 2 to 3 times this re/sets the calliper, only after this should you re/attatch the cable
regards malcolm

paulbx · Unread post by **paulbx** » 31 Jan 2008, 13:37

because the rear trailing arms and hydropneumatic mean that as the car settles the tension on the cable will change considerably - meaning car may roll away!

Paul B

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 31 Jan 2008, 18:12

Thanks for all the useful info. I'm gonna attempt this on saturday weather permitting, i also have an oil change due and have to rip an engine out of a scrapper, got the space heater ready!

Mads · Unread post by **Mads** » 31 Jan 2008, 19:46

A last tip is to loosen the brake bleed screw when you screw the calliper back in. You will only have to push the LHM out of the bleed screw rather than back into the system, hence it rewinds very easy. Put a suitable small tube on the bleed screw to avoid getting LHM oil all over.

Have fun and enjoy your new brakes 8)

Unread post by **elma** » 31 Jan 2008, 21:10

The bit about the disc retaining screw is very true, but before you drill them out try hammering a flat screwdriver into them and unscrewing them (if they are knackered) They are really soft and this usually works.
It's not hard to do brakes at all on a Xantia, You'll be done quite quickly.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 01 Feb 2008, 21:23

elma wrote:The bit about the disc retaining screw is very true, but before you drill them out try hammering a flat screwdriver into them and unscrewing them.

Or, use an impact driver on them. I've still got my old impact driver from the days when I used to play with old Jap motorbikes. The head of the driver has a 10mm hex for the bits and will take a Torx bit. The secret of using an impact driver is to whack it smartly with a really chunky hammer. I find a 4lb club hammer fits the bill admirably.

The last couple of disc sets I bougt came with new screws.

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 01 Feb 2008, 23:38

If you have a screwdriver with a square shaft you'll find it fits the slots in the piston - as designed! personally once I've got them moving I push them round with the end but take care not to catch the rubber bellows.

If one pair of slots is marked with a line stamped into the piston parallel with the slot - the pip on the pad should go into this slot - I don't know why.

Unread post by **RichardW** » 04 Feb 2008, 12:40

It's a bit late now possibly, but you need a T55 Torx bit to remove the calliper carrier before you can remove the discs. Best to know this before you have the brakes stripped down and need to go to Halfords! Make sure the calliper bolts are well cleaned, and the bit well fitted, before attempting to undo them - they are tight and mashing the heads is not a very good idea

French Car Forum

Changing front discs and pads - advice please?

Changing front discs and pads - advice please?

Handbrake on the front wheels