1.9XUD Timing Belt

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 20 Apr 2007, 19:57

Do you need to undo the pulley? On a BX TD there is a small cover over the bottom toothed pulley which is held on with 2 bolts and which can be wiggled out and the belt removed and replaced without removing the bottom pulley.

Your Xantia will have slightly different covers and a larger auxiliary pulley/harmonic balancer.

LeeDJC · Unread post by **LeeDJC** » 20 Apr 2007, 20:05

jeremy wrote:Do you need to undo the pulley? On a BX TD there is a small cover over the bottom toothed pulley which is held on with 2 bolts and which can be wiggled out and the belt removed and replaced without removing the bottom pulley.

Your Xantia will have slightly different covers and a larger auxiliary pulley/harmonic balancer.

Well, I *thought* that I needed to. If I don't, that's even better news!!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Apr 2007, 22:03

jeremy wrote:Do you need to undo the pulley? On a BX TD there is a small cover over the bottom toothed pulley which is held on with 2 bolts and which can be wiggled out and the belt removed and replaced without removing the bottom pulley.

Your Xantia will have slightly different covers and a larger auxiliary pulley/harmonic balancer.

On the Xantia XUD I believe the pulley must come off. Even if the bolts are removed, the pully is just too big to enable the cover to slip off. You may be able to carefully cut the cover to allow it to slip off. Certainly on early XU engines this was quite possible. I'm not even sure if, with the cover out of the way, you can slip a new belt on with the pulley in place. Xac will be able to advise as his is presently in this state, no cover and pulley in place. Xac's cover is damaged but will still give a very good clue as to how possible it is to remove with the pulley in place. It was only Wednesday evening Xac and I were looking right at this but I'm gone blank on the finer details already

Personally, I'd persevere with the bolt. Do it with the engine warm if at all possible to soften any locking compound on it. If it won't budge with the car in 5th gear and the handbrake pulled hard on and using a long breaker bar; very unlikely, it is time to do the old trick of using the starter motor.

To do this, disconnect the stop solenoid (so the engine cannot fire), get a good 22mm socket on the bolt head and attach to this a stout "T" bar which is carefully placed against something immovable on the car in the directio of engine rotation. Now spin the starter motor for only one very brief burst. This will release the bolt. It sounds very brutal and it is a last resort but it does work. I have used it five times in the past and it has been good every time and no damage has resulted.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 20 Apr 2007, 22:54

Pulley has to come off.
If the nut won't shift and you have to use jim's technique, if you car is like mine, with a keypad immobiliser, then you shouldn't need to worry about the stop solenoid as the engine won't fire if you just don't put in the code

If you want any photos let me know as I'm going to be putting mine all back together soon

Check the condition of your aux drive belt too, I've just had to change mine on my 2.1TD which was a real pain.

oldnail · Unread post by **oldnail** » 21 Apr 2007, 09:05

I see from the photo Xac that you've got the same bolt on covers as my ZX TD.I found that there was no way I could get the extended bolt out to use the plunger tool as used in the Haynes manual.The same applies to the similar bolt at the top of the mount.I spent an hour jacking the engine up and down,in an out and no way was there the room to remove these bolts.The other shorter bolt at the bottom of the mount came out without problem.So in the end I just removed and fitted the plunger by hand and it was no problem at all.As you said theres no reason to remove the mount anyway.
As regards the crankshaft bolt I removed the starter and locked the flywheel with a Draper flywheel locking tool(FWHT2),warmed up the bolt with a narrow blowlamp flame for a couple of minutes.Then with a six sided impact socket,a long extension resting on an axle stand and a long breaker bar it came undone no problem at all.Also with the starter motor off it makes finding the TDC hole easy if you are not familiar with XUD engines.
oldnail.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 21 Apr 2007, 09:34

Definitely easiest to take off the starter motor to find that damn hole!
Unless you've got an early sinking Xantia from what Jim said after seeing mine.
Anti-sink Xantias have easy to get to bolts for the starter motor, Jim mentioned on his there's a plastic sheild which hydraulic pipes sit in that's in the way.

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 21 Apr 2007, 17:15

Will be putting mine back together later today with a bit of luck, but can anyone suggest what locktite I should use to secure the stud that the tensioner pivots on, and the nut which keeps the tensioner on the stud as I don't want it coming off again!

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 21 Apr 2007, 18:08

The stuff I use is blue threadlocker.

Last used when I replaced my lower balljoints. As soon as I'm home I'll look at it and advise what it is!!

Xac: PM sent...

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 21 Apr 2007, 18:25

In my workshop :

Bardahl T-142 medium (blue)
Bardahl T-171 permanent (red)
In small 100mL bottles

Warning : the red stuff is genuine permanent