A few techy Q's re. my ZX Volcane TD.

DanDare · Unread post by **DanDare** » 13 Mar 2007, 21:10

I've just bought this last week & though it drives sweetly, i do have a few Q's as i am somewhat new to ZX's:

a) On bumpy roads i get a 'loose' sounding clonking from the rear suspension area, worse also on lefthand corners though i hear nothing on smooth roads ?

b) The horn doesn't work, can someone just tell me where it is located, lol ?

c) The heater control switch lights don't work, are they easy to get to & how ?

d) Though i'm not too fussed about 'tuning' it, has anyone got rid of all the air intake plumbing/low mounted airbox & just fitted a cone type filter & instead & if so, were there any 'complications' ?

Many thanks to anyone who supplies answers to these questions

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 13 Mar 2007, 21:46

Hi,

Good choice!

a) Clonking:

Check the rubber sandwich mounts holding the rear of the rear subframe to the body. These often split and are dead easy to replace. Also check the dampers and their mountings. The clonking also may be due to the rear beam being on the way out. A very, very common occurrance on all steel sprung PSA vehicles of this period. The problem is the trailing arm bearings. Push the rear up an down and listen and feel. can you hear any graunching or feel any stiffness? Note that you'll not feel any play as it is more likely to be partially seized. If so, the beam needs a rebuild. It is doable and GSF sell new bearing kits. Often though, you find the trailing arm shaft bearing surfaces pitted, which require new shafts and in extreme cases, the beam tube will be ovalised. I rebuilt my 205GTi beam last year at a cost of £350 all told

d) Tuning:

The TD is a pretty potent lump in this size of car and the standard induction system is quite adequate. I'd leave well alone! A cone is not going to give any tangible benefits apart from looking nice under the bonnet.

b) and c) I've no doubt will shortly be answered by ZX owners on this forum!

Ross_K · Unread post by **Ross_K** » 13 Mar 2007, 23:11

a) is your subframe mounts. about thirty quid for a pair off ebay and two hours labour at a garage if you're not up to for bit of diy. There's a guide on how to do the job here somewhere.

b) behind the bumper?

c) take out the radio and if your hands are small enough you can reach in and change them. Otherwise you take out another couple of screws for a bit more access. From what I remember, the bulbs are the standard capless number-plate type bulb.

DanDare · Unread post by **DanDare** » 13 Mar 2007, 23:28

Excellent, thanks guys.

I'll do those checks regarding the clonk bearing in mind what you've both said, fingers X'd it's the cheap option, lol.

I got this car cheap (£300 !) knowing it required a few jobs doing, it also had a seriously stiff gearchange but i located this to a semi-seized ball & socket joint pivot bolt, also the handbrake cable had snapped which is soon to be fixed when i get a moment.
Other than this it's a real cracker with no corrosion or parking dings etc & has so far averaged 45mpg without really even driving it 'carefully' lol. It certainly handles superbly too

Ross_K · Unread post by **Ross_K** » 13 Mar 2007, 23:34

Here's the ebay link for the subframe mounts:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-Citroen-ZX-Re ... 0086406709

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 13 Mar 2007, 23:54

The rear axle self steers - so its important to use the correct mounts as they control it!

Handbrake cables seize on both disc and drum braked systems. The drum brakes respond well to a very thorough overhaul and when done improve the braking no end.

Rear trailing arm bearings are a real problem. There are specialist repairers such as:

http://www.sspengineering.co.uk/

The heater lights are'nt that difficult - Haynes describes it quite well

http://citroeny.cz/servis/servis.htm (Scroll down - and the only ZX entry is a copy of Haynes ZX (petrol) manual in English which is downloadable.

The front of the heater control box comes off when 2 clips at the top and 2 at the bottom are prised gently to release the front panel. You have to remove the front trim first. Make sure the bulbs work before re-assembling - they may need some wobbling in their holders!

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 14 Mar 2007, 09:53

Hi.

(a) Mine is clonking too at the moment - must get the mounts done. A lot of posts on here say they can transform the handling.

(b) Check the horn switch - failed on mine despite having had a new indicator stalk (original Valeo part too!) only a couple of years earlier.

(d) Lots of advice for tuning on here if you do a search for it. Don't think the air filter makes a big difference - the fuel is the thing to adjust (or have adjusted). Beware the head gasket though!

What did you do to remedy the gearshift problem? Mine has never been too great, especially around 1st and 2nd.

Cheers,

James

jeremy · Unread post by **jeremy** » 14 Mar 2007, 14:12

A good grease of the gearchange linkage improved our 1.9D considerably. I found things like spray grease useful for getting into awkward places. Its also worth checking for wear while you're at it - the cross rods at the front seem prone to wear. The adjustment of the linkage lengths can be checked too.

8304 · Unread post by **8304** » 14 Mar 2007, 17:57

if u want it to go faster turn the boost and fueling up.

(puts more strian on engine and headgasket etc but goes like stink, if the gasket fails fit an uprated one and enjoy)

Que the "buy a fast car if u want one brigade"

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 15 Mar 2007, 00:39

jeremy wrote:A good grease of the gearchange linkage improved our 1.9D considerably. I found things like spray grease useful for getting into awkward places. Its also worth checking for wear while you're at it - the cross rods at the front seem prone to wear. The adjustment of the linkage lengths can be checked too.

Thanks Jeremy. I'd like to actually replace the gear linkages, and the clutch too, but this may help. See how long it lasts!

The ebay link is for the front mounts only - and PR-Net lists different types. Is it important, as long as a pair are used? And are both rear mounts the same? I've know of a website that can supply both for about half the Citroen price, but I'd need to be sure that they're the right ones!

8304, it's one of my ambitions to get the HG done IN ADVANCE of needing doing, and getting my Volcane tuned up. But I couldn't do it myself, and it wouldn't cost pennies. Of course, in theory the engine will only be running extra boost for a VERY limited time (as long as it isn't constantly thrashed), but I can't take the chance on a car that's needed daily.

James

Ross_K · Unread post by **Ross_K** » 15 Mar 2007, 10:01

You have rear-front and rear-rear mounts - two of each. The rear-front ones which you see in the ebay link are the ones which usually go.

I suppose you could renew all four mounts while you're under there for total peace of mind, but I've only ever needed to replace the rear-front ones on any of the ZXs I've owned