Lower ball joint on the xantia

Unread post by **KennyW** » 06 Oct 2006, 10:33

Hi Team,

I am trying to replace both ball joints but have a problem.

Even with appropriate tool its a b***** to remove and I'm going to have to remove the hub carrier and place unit in vice thereafter use a impact wrench to remove it.

Anybody out there had similar problems and and suggestions will be gratefully accepted

Cheers

Kenny

Unread post by **RichardW** » 06 Oct 2006, 11:31

Plenty of posts about this. Removing the hub is the way to go. Make sure you fully un-peen (or grind off!) the locking tab before you try and remove the joint, and then apply some heat to the hub carrier to soften the locktite. Not too much though, or you'll cook the bearing and have to take the hub off again in a few weeks

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 06 Oct 2006, 11:51

I have twice done this using a heavy duty pipe wrench (stilson) and a long extension bar (1.5m)

I wouldn't suggest buying the wrench to do the job, but if you have one, try it...

Otherwise, as Rich says, hub off.. so to speak

others may have different ideas.. mallet and chisel wont work..
John

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 06 Oct 2006, 14:06

Even with the correct tool its close to impossible removing the joint

I have a large 3/4" air impact driver which I used with a 35mm socket on the special socket.
Took me most of an hour (and a dead-lame arm for days

) removing ONE side joint.

Learned a lesson then and heated the other side before attacking it.
I was too hasty. Not until the joint was cooled well of again it budged with my impact driver quite suddenly and easy.
My latest MOT preparation was done this way too - and was easy peasy.

Heating it well - and then PATIENTLY waiting for it to cool off properly (thats an hour or 2 coffe break at least believe me) - is the way to go. You can perfectly check with your hand to feel if the wheel bearing is getting too hot. The heat does not tend to spread like most people think.
I had mine red hot (the joint that is) and still the bearing area was safe to touch.

steelcityuk · Unread post by **steelcityuk** » 06 Oct 2006, 14:13

I did the NS one on my 405 but in this case removed the whole strut (seemed better choice on pug but not Citroen!), clamped it in a vice, heated and chiseled it round. I've been told that some of the removal tools break trying to unscrew the joint so I used mine just to tighten the replacement.

Steve.

Stewart(oily) · Unread post by **Stewart(oily)** » 06 Oct 2006, 18:11

Get the hub assembly in a vice, grind away lots of the joint where its in contact with the hub then a combination of stillsons and big hammers and chisels will see it out.
Stewart

john alexander · Unread post by **john alexander** » 06 Oct 2006, 20:24

Hi replaced mine a few weeks ago , tried to do it on the car, no chance. Finally found its easier if you heat the hub then attack it with a hammer and chisel in the hands of a glaswegian ships engineer, luckily I keep one three doors away . The special tool is handy for fitting the new one but thats all. regards john.

davethewheel · Unread post by **davethewheel** » 06 Oct 2006, 23:30

good old hammer and chisel and a bit of heat has always served me well.

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 06 Oct 2006, 23:37

Check and then CHECK AGAIN that the peening is off the ball joint before
you even try budging it undone with the hub on or off the car!! Even when
you think you've done it...

This is from hard won experience where I actually bowed my big mamma
wrecking bar using silly leverage and forces!!

Least I can say now I told you so!!

Andrew

Unread post by **KennyW** » 07 Oct 2006, 19:32

Thanks for all the replies,

Will remove hub crrier from strut first then move onto heat etc.

Can I confirm with you all that hub nut is 35 mm

Fortunately I've removed several in the past from other cars and used the breaker bar/ratchet allied to scaffolding pole with vehicle sitting on its own weight to loosen nut.

I assume the same procedure here

If so I will let you all know what happened next

, remember we are talking about citroens.

Cheers

Kenny.

sleepy0905 · Unread post by **sleepy0905** » 07 Oct 2006, 19:37

Correct tool and a 1200oC blow lamp get it nice and warm never fails they always come out.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 07 Oct 2006, 19:45

nout wrong with citroens they are the normal ones,dont use heat as it will travel through the cast iron hub,and almost certainly melt the grease in the wheel bearing,the N/S swivelwill undo whilst on the car,because when you are putting force onto it the track rod stops you from pulling the inner drive shaft joint out of its socket,now the O/S is a diferant thing because you are levering the other direction,and unless you can stop the hub rotating towards the rear of the car it will pull the centre drive shaft joint right out of its socket,most of the time i manage to remove in situe,very selldom do i have to remove the the hub from the car
regards malcolm

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 07 Oct 2006, 19:55

Thing is, whilst it is easier in practice to do the job in situ it only needs a very
minor amount of movement on the strut to pull the nearside driveshaft out
pouring the oil everywhere no matter how well organised you are - been
there done that! Once you've taken this fact on board the way to go is twine
very strong rope around the base of the strut and brace it's position from the
inner wing to prevent it moving outwards - then you're in business!

Andrew

Unread post by **KennyW** » 07 Oct 2006, 20:42

Thanks again for the replies,

I'm thinkin' if i was able to aquire a impact wrench would this make the job easier to remove Hub nut

Replies on a SAE

No seriously, this would save the hassle of scaffolding poles etc

Cheers
Kenny

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 07 Oct 2006, 22:56

i think a hammer gun could posibly brake the special tool as it only has four small castleations on which do all the work
regards malcolm