205 Diesel - 'Stop solenoid?' and 'brakes stop MOT!!'

Stu R · Unread post by **Stu R** » 28 Jun 2006, 16:21

Well was hoping to get through MOT clear like last year to sell car,
(why didn't I last year!!)
Anway first problem 'during the test

' the car developed a stoping problem. The tester asked why it wouldn't stop, I didn't know what he was talking about. I stopped it at the center and ever since he sat in the car it has to be stall stopped, knightmare!

1/ Is this the stop solenoid gone and does this simply intail unscrewing old and rescrewing new. Not looked at Hanes yet but I think its right next to the fuel pump. Does it require any bleeding of the fuel system or is it seperate.

2/Anyway the actual test threw up brake problems, front imbalance 160 pass / 215 drivers front. Also handbrake 80 pass / 15 driver.
Could somebody advice a quick cheap fix

as I did't want to pay out any more than the tax and test (that's enough!) I'll try greasing the sliders and moving the piston on the passenger side front.

For the rear can I just tighten the handbrake cable (the footbrake rear ie shoes passed ok) I've never opened a drum brake so do I have to do this and is it going to complicated.

Feel like just scrapping it but that's such a waste, please help if you can!
cheers, Stu

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 28 Jun 2006, 22:35

The stop solenoid is probably nothing more than a split seal on the solenoid slug. Unscrew and remove, lift out the slug from the centre of the solenoid, remove seal on the end, change for new one, and reassemble.

The brakes are a little more worrying. The front imbalance will almost definitely be a partially siezed caliper/slider. Dissasemble, clean, grease and reassemble should do it.

The back is more difficult. I doubt that just adjusting cables will help, as the handbrake cable is self-balancing between the two sides. You'll probably find that the auto-adjusters and/or handbrake levers on the brake shoes are siezed/jammed with accumulations of brake dust. A dismantle and clean *might* help, but I've a feeling it may need a new set of shoes to get new mechanisms.

If all this seems a bit much, then PM me, as I'm on the lookout for a cheap 205 diesel. Where are you located?

Stu R · Unread post by **Stu R** » 29 Jun 2006, 16:53

I've PM'd you FF.

The drums wouldn't be a problem if I had the tools to get the 32mm bolt off! What sort of length breaker bar do you need? I've often wondered about those handheld power renches you can buy. They won't be as good as a garage's air-wrench but has anyone found them of use?

Cheers, Stu R

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 29 Jun 2006, 22:25

The handheld power impact wrenches works the same way as the air driven types. Be aware though that often you can not get the same impact momentum with these tools - as an air driven is capable of.

The electric ones I've seen provides some 250N - which is just about the same as an economy ½" air impact driver. Profesional types can provide some 550N. If you need more you can get some 680N (and up - depending on price) from a 3/4" impact driver. But these are quite heavy to hold.

Was rather surprised as I've never seen an electric impact driver before. Its certainly a lot easier than messing about with a compressor and stiff hosing.

I'm afraid 250N is not enough to help you with center axle nuts. You must have at least some 350N and up if you want to get the job done same day as you start up the tool ...

1N = 0.1Kgf = 0.225Lbf

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 29 Jun 2006, 22:51

I've replied Stu.

Stu R wrote:The drums wouldn't be a problem if I had the tools to get the 32mm bolt off! What sort of length breaker bar do you need? I've often wondered about those handheld power renches you can buy. They won't be as good as a garage's air-wrench but has anyone found them of use?

Length of bar needed? several miles!

Actually no. the length of bar often isn't the problem, it's the size and hence the stiffness of the drive. 1/2" drive really isn't man enough, and will bend. What you really need is big, heavy and solid 3/4" drive. Makes a massive difference (IE it's just easy)

As for the electric impact drives. Surprisingly good actually. I've used one to remove rusted solid landrover wheel nuts, and it worked really well. Slow, but effective.

Stu R · Unread post by **Stu R** » 30 Jun 2006, 16:23

Ta for replies, got solinoid from breakers, chose the shiny newest one, might work!
Comparing last years MOT brake pressures if I hadn't cleaned the drivers caliper so well it probably would have passed as its working too well now

. Handbrake cable seems to have stretched abit, the back ends going up tonight for a look, I'll have to consider investing in some more tools or begging of someone

Stu R · Unread post by **Stu R** » 20 Jul 2006, 17:21

Just an update for anyone intersted,
The stop soleniod was easy, payed peanuts from a breakers, don't go for a low miler go for a high miler as they all seem to have new ones. Obviously if it looks new that's the best. Don't be as stupid as me and drop the little plunger out and hence loose the spring! Had to use old spring. Make sure you clean round the old ss so no dirt gets in the fuel system and put your finger over the openning to stop much air getting in, it makes a sucking noise.

Had to get new shoes and cables for the back, I managed to loosen the bleed screw and inprove the caliper pressure. I made a little cup out of plastic to go around the nipple, silicon sealed it the caliper and used it to hold silkolene graphite release spray over night. Slowly moved it with a spanner and changed it for a new screw. Also tapped straight on with a hammer break rust.

Also managed to get a 1m long 3/4" NorthBar which goes up to 400Lb (£4

), so in the future I can attempt to move those hub nuts myself!