Clutch alignment

[RichardW]

In the process of changing the clutch in my mate's 306 HDi (see earlier thread about driveshaft...I know it's not strictly Cit, but they're all the same really). Ran into a few probs (not the least of which was too much wine and whisky on Friday night) and had to abandon the job with the gearbox on the floor on Saturday evening (had to partially drill out the clutch arm retaining pin, then discovered we had the wrong bushes for it anyway )

He's got a LUK kit, which didn't come with an alignment tool, so I've tried to make one with a piece of bar and insulation tape, but it's still a bit wobbly. Worth a punt, or best to buy a proper tool?

Also, any tips on getting the box back in? It was awkward getting it out - but that was our fault as we hadn't really lowered the engine, and we couldn't get it back far enough for the input shaft to clear the clutch spring fingers - presumably if we lower the engine then we'll be able to slide it in much more easily. Still got to find the centre of the clutch though I suppose....

T'aint much fun this job is it

Oh, and whoever hid the final gearbox bolt under the main engine loom, and bolted the coolant preheater to the top of the box in the most inaccessible position - but slotted the 'accesible' bolt wants a good kicking.

Not looking forward to next Friday.....

[citronut]

i always feel the edge of the clutch disc to the edge of the working surface of the presure plate,get it eaqual at all of the three points you can get acces to,works every time never use a tool,refitting box y ou need to lower the engine till you have the box somwhere near then lift engine back up otherwise the diff will not clear the subframe when matting box onto engine,did you pull the N/S driveshaft out of the intermediate mount on rear of engine,if not you risck bending the shaft,besides that its easyer to mate box onto engine with it out of the way
regfards malcolm

[bxbodger]

I've always managed to centralise the plate by eye- as long as you can see it its not that difficult to manage without the tool.

Do the diaphragm cover screws up, but not to the full torque, just enough to hold the plate, but loose enough that you can move the plate, if you see what I mean- you can then carefully lever it about with a screwdriver until its central.

[Kowalski]

Have you tried using a deep socket or one of the extension bars out of your socket sets? If you've got a 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive socket set you'll have a tool roughly the right diameter.

[Stewart(oily)]

I had a merry job getting the gearbox back into my Volcane, it just wouldnt start to go. The diff seems to want to foul the crossmember, I think I finally packed the sump away from the crossmsmber then it fell in, I used to use a half inch drive extension socket with some tape wrapped round it, now I have a shaft cut from an old box.
Stewart

[KennyW]

Hi Richard,

I've got an alignment tool with the various different sizes, if you wish to borrow same for the job let me know since if i recall you live 30- 45 mins along the road.

KennyW

[pugxpert]

at least its not a pull clutch then you would have a job on your hands.

[RichardW]

Thanks for the words of wisdom - looks like we'll just have to suck it and see. Yes, O/S shaft is right out, and we removed the speedo drive housing, which made much more room to get the box out. Being the pessimistic sort I have bought a clutch alignment tool (thanks Kenny for the offer, but it was only £10 in the local parts shop - less then the cost of the diesel to come and collect yours!).

We have the pull clutch on the ZX TD to look forward to in the summer

[citronut]

thats cheeting buying the tool your no fun,and with the back to front a**e about face pull clutch you must remove the clutch opperating arm from the fork spindle,as this allows the fork to rotate out and back in to the thrust bearing,also as i said earlier i never use a clutch linning up tool unless i cant get my finngers to the edge of the clutch disc,and they go in first time every time
regards malcolm

[8304]

yes pull clutches are a wonerfull thing - not.

They are a pain as most of you know beacuse the thrust bearing operating fork must be alingned so that it slips in behind (between the thrust bearing and pressure plate) as the box is pushed onto the engine. - very fidly considering the eight of the box...

Hours of entertainment!!!

[AndersDK]

Hours of entertainment!!!

[rossnunn]

did the clutch on my ZX without worry, the clutch I bought had a alignment tool with it. bolted the clutch on finger tight then used the tool to align then done the bolts up to the correct torque setting, the box its easyer to fit if you have access to a engine hoist as that'll take the weight off & just wiggle! lol
When I swapped the 4 spd gearbox on my old nova *sigh* for a 5 spd, that was a on-you-back-gearbox-on-chest job, great fun

[RichardW]

Job now done, and the clutch is feather light. Used a Draper Clutchmate which holds the two parts together and then you just bolt the clutch on - piece of cake. Getting the box back in was easier than we had feared.

Changing the clutch cable on the other hand..... good job the A/C had already lost its gas as we had to disconnect the pipes running across the bulkhead to get enough room to get the cable in and out. Even then it took 2 of us, one under the car one on top, to feed the new cable in.

Having seen the result though, I am enthused to get the clutch changed in our ZX, which is v heavy, and comes in at the top of the pedal.

More hours of 'fun'....