Diagram of the hydraulic suspension.
-
greasymonkey44
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 24 Jan 2006, 09:52
Diagram of the hydraulic suspension.
I wonder if anyone can help me, I am looking for a good diagram of the hydraulic suspension on a 1993 1.8 16v Citroen Xantia Temptation Estate.
A friend of mine parked her car up one night came out the next day and the rear suspension was right down on the stops, and it will not raise at all by moving the lever, the front raises and lowers all ok.
When she brought the car a few weeks ago it had limited service history, so not to sure what has been done to it by previous owners.
I have had a quick look underneath it, and the rod from the suspension control lever that goes to the rear of the car when you move it in the car, the lever it is attached to that does not move, only the spring moves.
Due to a limit repair budget I want to be able to fix it with relative easy.
A friend of mine parked her car up one night came out the next day and the rear suspension was right down on the stops, and it will not raise at all by moving the lever, the front raises and lowers all ok.
When she brought the car a few weeks ago it had limited service history, so not to sure what has been done to it by previous owners.
I have had a quick look underneath it, and the rod from the suspension control lever that goes to the rear of the car when you move it in the car, the lever it is attached to that does not move, only the spring moves.
Due to a limit repair budget I want to be able to fix it with relative easy.
-
jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
This is a common problem on Xantia - loads of posts on the subject. New link if required is not expensive but it may simply be that the linkage needs freeing off or has rusted away.
If this is your first time working on a Citroen make sure you have the car properly supported before you get underneath it. These cars WILL KILL YOU if they come down on you and after all you will be fiddling with the mechanism that keeps the thing off its bump stops!
If this is your first time working on a Citroen make sure you have the car properly supported before you get underneath it. These cars WILL KILL YOU if they come down on you and after all you will be fiddling with the mechanism that keeps the thing off its bump stops!
jeremy
-
Peter.N.
- Moderating Team
- Posts: 11761
- Joined: 02 Apr 2005, 16:11
- x 1238
-
greasymonkey44
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 24 Jan 2006, 09:52
Yes it is my first time working on a Xantia, It's trying to understand what parts do what in the suspension system.
I have got the haynes manual it is as usefull as a ashtray on a motorbike.
I have given it a good dose of WD but still not playing.
What is the part called that the rear suspension control rod is attached to?
Is their any other manual out there apart from the haynes one that give you a better explanation of the hydraulic parts?
I have got the haynes manual it is as usefull as a ashtray on a motorbike.
I have given it a good dose of WD but still not playing.
What is the part called that the rear suspension control rod is attached to?
Is their any other manual out there apart from the haynes one that give you a better explanation of the hydraulic parts?
-
Clogzz
- Posts: 2125
- Joined: 15 May 2005, 18:04
- x 40
It's the 'height corrector' that the rod is attached to.
Picture of front and rear correctors here:
http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/cap ... 366010.gif
Recent story:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... p?p=109054
Picture of front and rear correctors here:
http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/cap ... 366010.gif
Recent story:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... p?p=109054
2002 C5 2.0i AL4 239,000 km 76372389
-
greasymonkey44
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 24 Jan 2006, 09:52
-
Clogzz
- Posts: 2125
- Joined: 15 May 2005, 18:04
- x 40
-
jgra1
- (Donor 2021)
- Posts: 4625
- Joined: 27 Nov 2005, 19:07
- x 36
when the manual height rod moves, i think it translates into only a few mm at the height corrector piston.
suggest you get car on ramps if possible and, working under the rear roll bar with light, get a mole wrench on the manual actuator lever (after removing the long control rod from it-just unsprings) and wiggle the actuator it many times while adding oil/ more WD..
you can pull it all the way forwards and the back end should go back full up (engine running) and push it back for opposite effect...
apologies if that makes no sense
the hard part will be getting it on ramps....
John
suggest you get car on ramps if possible and, working under the rear roll bar with light, get a mole wrench on the manual actuator lever (after removing the long control rod from it-just unsprings) and wiggle the actuator it many times while adding oil/ more WD..
you can pull it all the way forwards and the back end should go back full up (engine running) and push it back for opposite effect...
apologies if that makes no sense
the hard part will be getting it on ramps....
John
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
This is the best popular document available on Citroens :
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/guide.html
Its a pdf document and only occupies 600Kb - a fast download.
I recommand you LIFT the rear wheels on ramps using a hydraulic jack. Solid wooden blocks would also do, but it MUST be stable and provide a lift of at least 10" to give a safe clearance under the car.
http://www.tramontana.co.hu/citroen/guide.html
Its a pdf document and only occupies 600Kb - a fast download.
I recommand you LIFT the rear wheels on ramps using a hydraulic jack. Solid wooden blocks would also do, but it MUST be stable and provide a lift of at least 10" to give a safe clearance under the car.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
-
greasymonkey44
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 24 Jan 2006, 09:52
I had the car on the ramps, I uncliped the control rod, the actuator lever was solid, cleaned up good oiling with WD and slowly managed to get some movement but not a lot.
The movement in the height corrector piston was only a mm or two, took the front and back rubber caps off it was all clean inside but the movement of the piston was very small, still could not get the rear suspension to remotely move up.
Can the height corrector be taken apart?
And whats in side it does anyone now?
I would like to thank everyone for the links to the various pages.
The movement in the height corrector piston was only a mm or two, took the front and back rubber caps off it was all clean inside but the movement of the piston was very small, still could not get the rear suspension to remotely move up.
Can the height corrector be taken apart?
And whats in side it does anyone now?
I would like to thank everyone for the links to the various pages.
-
AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
The height corrector (HC) can be taken apart, cleaned and lubed (w/ LHM).
IIRC the total movement of the piston end to end is some 6mm for normal function. If it feels like its stuck and only can be moved 1-2mm by hard fingerforces, corrosion has crept in via the steelpiston. This will seize the piston inside the precision bore.
Rarely the corrosion has reached the part of the precison bore/piston that functions as the valve, thus the HC may still be serviceable.
Note that there are no seals internal to the HC. Its function solely relies on precision micro machining.
IIRC the total movement of the piston end to end is some 6mm for normal function. If it feels like its stuck and only can be moved 1-2mm by hard fingerforces, corrosion has crept in via the steelpiston. This will seize the piston inside the precision bore.
Rarely the corrosion has reached the part of the precison bore/piston that functions as the valve, thus the HC may still be serviceable.
Note that there are no seals internal to the HC. Its function solely relies on precision micro machining.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
-
KevMayer
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003, 22:01
- x 2
-
Mandrake
- Posts: 8695
- Joined: 10 Apr 2005, 17:23
- x 694
Bear in mind that it should be difficult to move under normal circumstances. The height corrector has a hydraulic damping chamber inside it which prevents any sudden movements, making it seem very stiff.greasymonkey44 wrote:I had the car on the ramps, I uncliped the control rod, the actuator lever was solid, cleaned up good oiling with WD and slowly managed to get some movement but not a lot.
The movement in the height corrector piston was only a mm or two, took the front and back rubber caps off it was all clean inside but the movement of the piston was very small, still could not get the rear suspension to remotely move up.
Maximum travel is only about 6mm. If you apply a firm and steady pressure it should move after about 5 seconds or so a maximum of about 3mm in either direction.
Yes it can be taken apart and cleaned. (Which is all it usually needs) See near the bottom of this thread:Can the height corrector be taken apart?
And whats in side it does anyone now?
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=17385
Regards,
Simon
Simon
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1978 CX 2400
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
-
greasymonkey44
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 24 Jan 2006, 09:52
-
G4EIY
- Posts: 186
- Joined: 04 Jun 2003, 18:20
Hi,
Also have a look at "Handy Hints and Tips" section..
Cleaning BX Height Correctors...
Although this is one from a BX, should be similar in construction, and shows a picture of the discs, and a tool that can be made for easy removal...
Best of luck
Also have a look at "Handy Hints and Tips" section..
Cleaning BX Height Correctors...
Although this is one from a BX, should be similar in construction, and shows a picture of the discs, and a tool that can be made for easy removal...
Best of luck
Brian - 86 Visa 17D Sorn(192K)/ 86 BX 17RD (220K) Scrapped/ 92 BX 17TZD Turbo Diesel (191K)
96 306 XRDT (174K)
96 306 XRDT (174K)