xantia suspension perfection

[graham593192]

Hi
I hav e '95 1.8 16v xantia hatchback. in the last month I have changed all 6 spheres and the antirole bar drop links.

As with most of you guys on here i'm always looking for another job to do on the car to keep it ticking over nicely. The engine is running like a dream at the moment so i don't want to touch anything there.
I was just wondering if there are any other little jobs i can do on the suspension to keep it working in just the way citroen designed it to do.

I've read in here about lubin up the struts and height correctors. Do these types of jobs make much difference? If so whats the best way to go about it and what oil/grease should i use?
Any other suggestions for little tinkering jobs I can do would be greatfully recieved!!

thanks

[mezuk04]

Raise the suspension up to max height and leave for a few minutes and then move down to minimum height and leave for a few minutes, repeat this several times over and you can do this on a regular type basis like for example every month to keep everything moving freely.

If your confident with door cards and the attachments onto the door locks (inside the door) i would take the locks out and grease them all up.

Also what you have mentioned with the lubing.

Cant think of anything else though!

[Mandrake]

Definately try lubing the struts, you're likely to get a significant improvement in ride quality, if they havn't been done recently, and will probably prolong their life in the process.

Lubing the struts has been covered many times by various people including me, so a search of the forum should turn those up, but here is my basic procedure:

Lift the suspension fully up, and put the jack from the spare wheel under the appropriate place on the side you are working on so there is no chance of the suspension falling and crushing your arms. You've been warned.

Pull the gator down, if you can see any muck on or around the shaft, give it a wipe with a clean rag or tissue, then apply some grease evenly on the shiny shaft without getting it all over the place (especially not on the rubber strut top or gator or you may have trouble getting the gator to stay on) then move the jack to the other side of the car and do the same there.

I like Lithium L2 grease for this role - definately use a compatible mineral based grease, and don't use anything with molybdolin disulphide or any other kind of "specialist" grease with unusual additives.

Then remove the jack, completely lower the suspension, then lift it to maximum again, and reinserting the jack as appropriate, repeat the entire process again a couple more times.

What you're trying to do is get the grease in past the dust seal at the stop of the strut cylinder (the large black unit below the shaft) and because of the close fit only a small amount will get through each time hence repeating it a few times.

While you're at it inspect the strut top rubbers from underneath with a torch and check for cracks, shearing, distortion of the round shape of the ring where the gator attaches to, or any sign of the centre section of the rubber block shearing *upwards*.

When finished wipe any stray grease from the strut top rubber and the gator and refit the gators.

Instead of just grease you could also try a 50/50 mixture of LHM and grease, LHM mixes quite well with some kinds of light grease. Or alternatively applying grease and LHM on a given up/down cycle.

As for lubing the height corrector - its actually impossible to lube the height corrector without disassembling it, and putting grease on the outside of it will do nothing, except make it greasy.

Generally the only thing that ever goes wrong internally with a height corrector is dirty oil can cause sludge/grit deposits to build up inside it which can inhibit the operation of the hydraulic dampers (which give the 5-10 second delay) which can make it seem to be "seized up".

This won't happen if you keep the LHM clean, but if it does happen it is possible to strip the height corrector down, clean and reassemble it (it's not a throwaway item...) and have it work as good as new. (I've done it several times on different cars)

I wouldn't suggest pulling a height corrector apart as a preventative measure though, only if you have reasonable grounds to suspect a problem with it.

However you can clean and lube the mechanism which connects to the height corrector including the springs, linkages and rods etc. Here in New Zealand the linkages don't seem to give any trouble (no road salt) but apparently in the UK the linkages are very prone to rusting and seizing up, so give them a scrub and clean, and apply some grease that wont attract too much dust.

As always, make sure the car is on ramps or axle stands, so the car wont fall on you while you fiddle with the height corrector. (or any time you're under the car for that matter)

Mezuk's suggestion of working the height from minimum to maximum from time to time is also a good idea, and particularly after just lubricating the linkages...

Also consider changing the LHM and cleaning the filters in the tank if it hasn't been done for 3 years or if the condition of the oil/filters is unknown due to you having not had the car that long.

The main things to keep the suspension in tip top condition (IMHO) are:

* Spheres gassed/replaced as needed (don't forget the centre spheres if your car is Hydractive 2)

* Front struts lubed (I would suggest 6 monthly)

* Height corrector linkages free and lubricated as needed

* LHM kept clean, by replacing the oil every 3 years and cleaning the filters and tank (in addition to the filters in the tank there is a sediment trap in the bottom of the tank)

* Eventually the rear suspension arm bearings will need to be replaced, but you'll know when this is as the ride at the back will be harsh regardless of spheres being replaced...mine has done 145,000Km and the rear arm bearings are still fine.

Regards,
Simon

[Stewart(oily)]

I would lubricate the linkages to the front and rear ride height valves too, theres sliding pivots, pins and springs under there and its plenty to seize up in this salty weather, I use a mixture of oil, grease and chainsaw oil on an old paintbrust to work it into all those possible places, observe safety though, ramps are best, and th job will only take a few minutes.
Stewart

[KevMayer]

Mandrake - I am interested in your comments on stripping down the height correctors. The rear corrector on my Xantia is leaking. Would I gain anything by taking it off, stripping it down and cleaning it. Do you think that just cleaning it may correct my leak or do I need new seals or if seals aren't available should I just get a new height corrector ?

cheers, Kev

[Mandrake]

Mandrake - I am interested in your comments on stripping down the height correctors. The rear corrector on my Xantia is leaking. Would I gain anything by taking it off, stripping it down and cleaning it. Do you think that just cleaning it may correct my leak or do I need new seals or if seals aren't available should I just get a new height corrector ?

cheers, Kev

Hi Kev,

There are no o-ring seals inside a height corrector, only a rubber cup on each end which keeps the low pressure leakage contained so that it can be piped back to the tank. As mentioned its normal for there to be some internal leakage, but it shouldn't leak externally of course.

There are only 3 different ways a height corrector could leak externally in order of likelyhood:

* The low pressure overflow return pipe - this is the one that has a short piece of rubber hose attached with only a push fit, and then joins a clear plastic pipe back to the tank. Because this is a push fit and the rubber can harden and crack with age, this is your most likely bet. I had to replace the one on my front height corrector. Make sure you use pipe that is oil resistant.

* The rubber sleeve seals on the high pressure pipes - all three of the steel pipes have the standard Citroen rubber seals, and if the nut is loose, overtight, or the seals are the wrong size or are damaged, it may weep slightly. In that case simply replace the seals.

* The rubber cups on the ends of the height corrector, could potentially leak, but its very unlikely.

There is an outer seal and an inner one. The outer one just keeps the dust out, and on the linkage side its rubber, and on the rear side it can be a plastic or rubber cover. It can be prised or peeled off as applicable to gain access inside.

Inside you'll find a nut and a large washer attached to a thick rubber boot. The seal around the outside of this (from memory a steel band) is all that seals the low pressure leakage in. If you unscrew the nut and remove the washer you can prise the inner boot off as well.

Unless this boot (at either end) is cracked or ripped I don't see how it could leak as they are a pretty tight fit.

If you do venture to strip it down for whatever reason, make sure you draw a diagram of the order things came off in as it can be a bit confusing.

Under the inner diaphram it will be full of oil, (and probably sludge too) and on the shaft will be a circlip, a washer, and a spring, which can all be removed. (Note which way up the spring is)

If you prise the inner boot off the other end of the housing as well you'll be able to withdraw the shaft. Don't bother trying to seperate the middle of the boot and the coupling from the shaft.

Be careful not to scratch the centre section of the shaft - don't even lie it down flat on the workbench as it is machined to very close tolerances. Also don't mix up which way around the shaft was inserted.

In the area in the middle that the washers cover you'll find a port which has a series of little discs with tiny holes in them - this is the hydraulic damping which gives the height corrector its time delay, and this is what tends to get clogged with sludge to make it "seize up". (In truth it just gets hydraulically locked due to the blocked ports)

The main drum unit can be cleaned with a bit of petrol and a brush, and perhaps some compressed air, and refitting is the reverse of dissassembly in best Haynes tradition The height correction will be "too fast" for a day or so until the pockets inside fill up with leakage oil again, then it will slow down to normal.

However my guess is its one of the first two possibilities, so what you need to do is thoroughly clean the outside to find out where any fresh leak is coming from before deciding what to do.

Regards,
Simon

[KevMayer]

Thanks very much Simon.

I'll use your advise. It could save me some money, as well as being interesting.

cheers, Kev