ZX Engine Replacement - wire left over...key coded pump

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 18 Oct 2005, 12:02

OK finally getting there.....

zx engine out, pug 306 in (had to swap a couple of things, but to be expected) and do some body repairs

Whilst using the zx wiring on the new engine, i have a single connection left over. It is a yellow plug that (on the old engine) connects with yellow female connector just behind gearbox (where all the linkages are) and then goes down the back of the engine, roughly central.

on the pug, the casting has been blocked off with a blanking bolt, which looks like i could be able to remove it.

Any ideas what it could be, should i attempt to swap them over or is it not important ? not been able to trae yet on Haynes BOL schematics

That then only leaves me with the key coded pump...to which i have the code but no keypad - hot wire the stop solenoid to ignition ?

cheers

dieseldes1 · Unread post by **dieseldes1** » 18 Oct 2005, 14:36

Whilst using the zx wiring on the new engine, i have a single connection left over. It is a yellow plug that (on the old engine) connects with yellow female connector just behind gearbox (where all the linkages are) and then goes down the back of the engine, roughly central.

That is the oil level indicator, it's a tube like affair, just remove the blanking plug and slide in and tighten up,

That then only leaves me with the key coded pump...to which i have the code but no keypad - hot wire the stop solenoid to ignition ?

Keep it simple (KISS)! try that and if it works leave well alone, if it doesn't then there is allways plan B (you have a plan B?)

Des

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 18 Oct 2005, 15:14

Cheers Des, will extract level indicator from old engine and put into replacement.

Can this be swapped with oil in, or will i have to drain sump ? thinking will be ok with oil in due to position

Plan A is to connect zx wires to pug fuel pump as is, and see what happens -will need to adjust as connectors are different shape externally....

Plan b hot wire with in line fuse

Plan c swap the pumps over - not really what i wanted to do

Cheers

Unread post by **RichardW** » 18 Oct 2005, 15:58

Rich,

My understanding of the coded stop solenoid is that it cannot be bypassed by wiring into the 4 or 5 pins, as they only accept digital signals. The only way out is to butcher the protective shield and connect and ignition live to the stop solenoid. This is probably easier and safer with the pump removed

However, a quick google turned this up on Preloved.co.uk:

"The procedure i took works for diesel, pre hdi. First of all I disconnected the battery.To the side of the pump is what appears to be a black case with 4 wires entering it, working gentley with a screwdriver i removed the end cap which revealled some epoxy resin, this is only about 1/4" thick, tap it quite firmly and it will break, underneath is a small circuit board covered in some kind of jelly, this jelly will rub off with your finger, Just so you understand the positioning lets say where the four wires are soldered to the circuit board is at the bottom. At the very top is a soldered joint, desolder this joint and the circuit board will come away, and that spells the end to your immobilizer problems because the connection you have just desoldered is the wire going through to the fuel shut off solenoid, run a 12v supply to this connection via a fused connection and your away be sure to feed the solenoid from a circuit which is live only when the ignition is turned on or you'll never turn the damn thing off. I hope this has been of some use to you all...WIPPPEEEEE NO MORE KEYPAD........ "

Can't comment on its efficacy or otherwise obviously, but it's got to be worth a try before having to remove the injection pump....

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 19 Oct 2005, 10:30

Oil level indicator swapped, bit of a pain due to length and position when engine in situ but sorted.

Cheers rich - will have a look into the circuit board removal technique to see how vaild, or if can bypass with combination of wirin looms...

i'm assuming that only the original keypad would work, and that one from a different car would not work, as have got the code ?

cheers

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 23 Oct 2005, 14:05

Hmmm only thing left is wiring the pump.

the pump is lucas - looking at the haynes bol, the stop solenoid is positioned top right when looking at the pump from above.

however there is a metal shroud covering it - how do i remove this as not cover in my bol ? there is a bolt at the base and what appear to be two rivets holding it to the body of the pump - are these connected to anythiing else or can i knock the heads off. - or should i just attack from above with drill ?

not quite sure where the black plastic thing is yet - possibly under this shroud, or under another at the back of the pump left hand side....

pointer appreciated

Dave Burns · Unread post by **Dave Burns** » 23 Oct 2005, 14:19

Those rivets are infact high tensile steel shear head bolts, there are about five or six of them, you will find it difficult to say the least without removing the pump, you must unscrew them by driving them round with a centre punch, or it may be possible to grip them with a good pair of vise grips, don't chisel away at them you will do the pump no good.

The module is along side the pump on the Lucas and is quite large campared to the Bosch equivelant.

Dave

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 23 Oct 2005, 14:28

cheers dave, will leave rivets alone.

the module - as i look at pump from above - is it on the back left hand side, the back being the engine near the pulley? does look quite big- tho there is again metal bent over it.

Dave Burns · Unread post by **Dave Burns** » 23 Oct 2005, 14:49

Yes under the steel cover on the engine side of the pump.

Dave

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 23 Oct 2005, 14:54

right then , will have a go at that

cheers dave

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 23 Oct 2005, 16:12

looks like will have to pull the pump off as drill barely touching the surface

will a keypad from another scrap car work if i can wire it up or will it be paired to the pump ?

Dave Burns · Unread post by **Dave Burns** » 23 Oct 2005, 17:18

The module will have a four digit code put in by the previous owner, if you don't know what that code is you are stuffed, it would then have to be removed.

But yes another keypad would work if A, you knew how to wire it, and B, if you knew what the present code was in the pump module.

Dave

rashmore · Unread post by **rashmore** » 23 Oct 2005, 17:38

well i have the code.

will have to see if can find keypad from a scrapper and what wires are attached...

and to add insult to injury, a new drive shaft seal that i have put in is leaking.