CX SERIES 1 DIESEL CLUTCH CHANGE

mowcopds · Post by **mowcopds** » 25 Sep 2005, 11:57

Hi folks,I`m just about to start a clutch change on my cx diesel,so just a few questions....what other essential jobs should I carry out when the engine and box are out? Also any other advice on how to make the job run smoothly,for example can I remove the driveshafts from the gearbox without the special tool?
Thanks in advance Andy
PS CAR IS NON TURBO SO IS QUITE SIMPLE FOR A CITROEN!!

DoubleChevron · Post by **DoubleChevron** » 25 Sep 2005, 17:20

Does this help ....
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... change.htm
I recently did a clutch change on my CX too

seeya,
Shane L.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 25 Sep 2005, 19:06

The CX is very much easier to work on than the XM, well for some jobs anyway. If you cant get the driveshafts out, clamp a large pair of molegrips on the shaft and knock them outwards with a large hammer.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 25 Sep 2005, 19:22

Peter N - have you forgotten the nightmare of removing driveaxles from a CX [:D][:(]
Remember the front subframe does not leave you a chance to access the inner TRI-joint cups from behind - and these cups are like welded into the diff [8)] - but is held by a C-lock ring only [|)]

Post by **Peter.N.** » 25 Sep 2005, 23:14

Sorry Anders, your right, having said that the CX was easier to work on I was thinking mainly about changing the head gasket which I did about 10 times on mine. I had forgotten about the subframe (apologies to mowcopds) but it must be possible, I changed both of mine! Is it not possible to lever them out with something? I have got an idea that I used a long tyre lever between the shaft end and diff housing.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 25 Sep 2005, 23:48

long time since i have done them but i think you do put a lever in between diff and inner triac,the good thing is you dont loose you gear oil as when the shaft comes out there is a sleave stoping the oil escaping
regards malcolm

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 26 Sep 2005, 01:41

While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!

DoubleChevron · Post by **DoubleChevron** » 26 Sep 2005, 06:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by citronut

long time since i have done them but i think you do put a lever in between diff and inner triac,the good thing is you dont loose you gear oil as when the shaft comes out there is a sleave stoping the oil escaping
regards malcolm
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If your talking about removing the LHS driveshaft, please DO NOT EVER try to 'pry' this joint out as described.
Let me rephrase that ... VERY GENTLY with VERY LITTLE force try prying it as suggested. If the driveshaft doesn't pop easily out of the gearbox with gentle force IT ISN'T COMING OUT, DO NOT TRY HARDER.
If you use a 'levering' force you don't compress the clip on the end of the driveshaft, rather your applying great force againt the clip, possibly breaking it, or wedging it forever in place.
If you can make up a slide hammer that clamps to the driveshaft joint this would be the only way to remove it ... Me ???? split the driveshaft leaving the joint behind [:)] Very simple, once the gearbox is out you have lots of room to give the joint a few heavy smacks with a big hammer. This will immediatly 'jolt' the joint out compressing the clip.
seeya,
Shane L.

DoubleChevron · Post by **DoubleChevron** » 26 Sep 2005, 06:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.

seeya,
Shane L.

mowcopds · Post by **mowcopds** » 26 Sep 2005, 12:26

Thanks everybody for the advice,especially Shane.
As I suspected it is a typical Citroen job!
Lots of swearing and skinned knuckles!
If anyone thinks of anything else please post.
I`m sure I`ll be asking more questions as I actually start the job.
Thanks again Andy

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 26 Sep 2005, 13:47

are you the luck one to have bronze bushes instead of needle rollers,unless when one of those triack bearings drops of you end up with about 30 needle rollers scatered every which way they choose to go
regards malcolm]Originally posted by DoubleChevron

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.

seeya,
Shane L.
[/quote]

DoubleChevron · Post by **DoubleChevron** » 26 Sep 2005, 18:18

Maybe it was an aftermarket replacement driveshaft ??? I've had many CX driveshafts out and in bits, but never have I seen a needle bearing. The GS however

Bloody buggers of things they are, needles everywhere if your not careful (grrrr).
seeya,
Shane L.