Suspension sinks on Sundays! C5 X7 that works hard + 206 GTi HDi (and 406 Coupe and 306 HDi). - MattBLancs

[MattBLancs]

dont worry abiut the bolt i found one in my junk pots a perfect fit , never throw them junk pots away !

Same here:
Rusty - into the scrap metal bucket,
Not rusty - into my "it'll come in, probably" bucket!
Rusty and and unusual thread size sometimes goes for a dip in the phosphoric acid then if salvageable it too heads to the future use bucket

[RichardW]

A tip for tight nuts... Apply 'some' torque, then hit the back of the head of the breaker bar with a hammer. This gives an effect similar to an impact gun and can unwind nuts that otherwise refuse to budge with torque alone. You may need a glamorous assistant. Having said that, your hub nut looks tiiiight, hopefully it's not stripped or cross threaded.....

[mickthemaverick]

As there was no comment or abuse about my earlier post I think it may have been missed due to other posts following it very quickly, so here is a second chance!!:

viewtopic.php?p=808341#p808341

It has worked for me in the past!

[mickthemaverick]

A tip for tight nuts... Apply 'some' torque, then hit the back of the head of the breaker bar with a hammer. This gives an effect similar to an impact gun and can unwind nuts that otherwise refuse to budge with torque alone. You may need a glamorous assistant. Having said that, your hub nut looks tiiiight, hopefully it's not stripped or cross threaded.....

Surely if you have tight nuts and a glamorous assistant, the last thing you want is a hammer?

[MattBLancs]

As there was no comment or abuse about my earlier post I think it may have been missed due to other posts following it very quickly, so here is a second chance!!:

viewtopic.php?p=808341#p808341

It has worked for me in the past!

It's a bit "all or nothing" for my liking really! I've heard of similar techniques for crankshaft pulley bolt removal too - and I am too chicken to try that either!!

[MattBLancs]

A tip for tight nuts... Apply 'some' torque, then hit the back of the head of the breaker bar with a hammer. This gives an effect similar to an impact gun and can unwind nuts that otherwise refuse to budge with torque alone. You may need a glamorous assistant. Having said that, your hub nut looks tiiiight, hopefully it's not stripped or cross threaded.....

Ah yes a good idea, did that recently on something else that was "stupid tight". Might have been another driveshaft nut.

As above, I've never been defeated 'till now! Interested to see how much longer the (now bent) 1/2" breaker bar lasts, would guess I'll get two pieces at some point.

Fingers crossed the mega 1m 3/4" drive does the trick, if not it'll certainly pick up a bit of "hammer rash" on the back of its head as second attempt!

[MattBLancs]

Surely if you have tight nuts and a glamorous assistant, the last thing you want is a hammer?

Glamorous assistant has her foot on the break pedal so is a fair distance from direct interaction with aforementioned tight nuts and or hammer!

Will have to feed her three shredded wheats for breakfast as we were getting brake disk slippage too - again, first time that's happened too, so again giving an insight how bloody tight this must be!!

[Armidillo]

Jack both wheels off the ground. Assuming it is standard thread place deep socket on nut with the end of the breaker bar on the ground in front of the wheel at 40 degrees to the ground. Start engine, first gear and dump clutch!! Reverse bar if it has a left hand thread and use reverse gear!

Ok - you'll have to explain. Assuming a normal diff, and just one deep socket and breaker bar (applied on one side only), why wouldn't the other wheel (which you have stated is also to be off the ground) just spin freely, thus applying very little force to the wheel that is not free to move?

[mickthemaverick]

????
A valid point to mention Alec and I should have added chock the other wheel with an appropriate device for a standard diff. I did it on a rally car with LSD which allowed sufficient torque to the driveshaft to crack the nut. You only have to 'dump' the clutch and then quickly depress it again to apply the shock to the nut. Of course this is not to be considered a 'normal' method, just one which can be useful when other normal methods have failed.

[mickthemaverick]

If the brake pads are not holding the disc you can use a decent screwdriver inserted into the ventilated disc slot and then the wheel turned until the screwdriver meets the caliper which will lock the disc.

[MattBLancs]

If the brake pads are not holding the disc you can use a decent screwdriver inserted into the ventilated disc slot and then the wheel turned until the screwdriver meets the caliper which will lock the disc.

Yes we did that too (till I gave up when spotted breaker bar was about to give up) we were starting to bend the screwdriver (only a cheap one) three wheel bolts in the disk to assist the little M6 retaining screws.

Did I mention it was tight!?

[MattBLancs]

Sat in National Tyres - they're going to do the tracking shortly.

Just evolving Mick's "engine assisted" method:
Car on the ground, wheel centre cap off (or swap on the steel space saver) breaker bar through hole and rest end on the ground, drive forward (or backward for this one as it's the right wheel)

Would achieve same thing with less "dump the clutch and dive for cover" ? weight of the car and grip of the wheel both working with you my suggested method.

Driving with loose driveshaft nut is not good for wheel bearing, but a foot or so shouldn't kill anything, I'd hope

[MattBLancs]

They reckon the arms are longer, more camber.
Also pointed out the difference in front and rear tyre size (as it's the 60 profile front Vs 55 profile rear)

Going to have a go and let me know

[MattBLancs]

Will have a proper measure of old arms at home, difficult when one end of the dimension is to a ball joint!

[MattBLancs]

They reckon the arms are longer,

Difficult to find any figures!

eBay advert for what I've put on says:

FAI Front Lower Right Track Control Arm Fits Peugeot 308 2013 - 2022

From eBay advert

Vehicle
PEUGEOT 308 SW II (LC_, LJ_, LR_, LX_, L4_) 2.0 BlueHDi 150

Body
Estate

Fuel
Diesel

03/2014 06/2021
Drive: FWD
Valves: 16
BHP: 150
KW: 110
Fitting Position: Front Axle Right; Fitting Position: Lower

Autodoc has a range of lower arms, most without any dimension data, only ones (other than package sizes!!) with anything useful, suggests

Alloy:

length: 384mm

RIDEX Suspension arm in the AUTODOC app https://m.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/14760066

Steel:

length: 366

TRISCAN Suspension arm in the AUTODOC app https://m.autodoc.co.uk/triscan/12830733

Can't find any more to compare, but above suggests 18mm extra length per arm.


Hmmmmmm



Wait and see what their adjustments come back with.
Interested to hear how they get on with the seized side too! (Can't hear any swearing as yet, mind you I tried that repeatedly last night to no avail!!! )