You should allow 3 hrs for this. In practice it should take a lot less, 40 min geting to the speedo and 50 min reassembly leaving 1:20 for faffing about with the needles, bulbs etc.... 31 bulbs in the dash and 2 in the heater control
You will need a Torx 20 for all the screws (thanks Citroen) a small flat blade screwdriver, a torch or better an inspection lamp.
Before Starting:
Take the car for a run and make notes of the positions of the rev counter and the speedo at different speeds, neccessary for reassembly of the speedo needles.
Take a photo of the front of the unit before starting so that if you have to remove the needles you can set the fuel and temp in the correct positions when reassembling. (not sure if this is neccessary but as these guages don't have a zero stop I did)
If you are going to be replacing bubs then remove the dimmer from the housing and reconnect it as some of the speedo lights won't work with this disconected and indicators won't work without the hazard switch connected
To begin with, move the seat back as far as possible, you're going to need the space, open the document storage area and remove the 4 screws inside,
you can leave the (carpet trim attached to the bottom to save time) and remove the single screw attaching the switch assembly above.
On the next panel, there are two long screws hidden in the holes immediately under and infront of the steering wheel which hold the trim above and below the stering wheel in place, Remove these and both parts of the steering wheel trim can be removed. (caution the courtesy light needs to be popped out of the housing, and the dimmer switch also needs to be disconnected)
Now you can move onto the ashtray. This is removed by releasing a spring onder the ashtray itsself which allows the right hand side to be removed.
Just above the ashtray there are two screws helping to hold the heater/radio trim on. Remove these and also with a pair of pliers remove the plastic temperature and fan speed sliders, just a straight pull off.
The heater/radio trim is now held at the bottom by two slip on clips and at the top by three push in clips
Gentle pulling will release them and expose the radio screws either side of the radio.
Remove these screws and pull the radio forward you may want to disconnect the radio, you need the code when you reattach it, but its not neccessary and saves time leaving it attached.
Just above and below the radio the four radio housing screws need to be removed. Again the housing can mostly be left in situ, just pulled forward to acccess the screws above and behind it.
All four of these screws need removing, two holding the clock and two slightly hidden at either side at the top of the opening holding the facia bar.
Now work along the facia bar and remove the remaining screws, one on the left of the steering wheel one on the right and the last one on the far right.
The facia bar can now be gently eased toward you beginning at the right side and disconnecting any connections on the right hand side. It will not move on the left hand side as there are 3 clips holding it in place
( make sure you have removed all the hidden screws as they are easy to miss) Gently work the facia bar out removing the left hand connections as you go. (I left the bitron temp sensor attached and you can leave the clock attached for speed) and laid the bar down on the passenger side.You now have access to the speedo.
Two screws on the bottom left and right and one in the center at the top of the unit. after removing these, the easiest way to remove the unit I found was to ease a flat blade screwdriver under the tab at the top of the unit and allow it to fall forward and then the unit can be withdrawn. (take care not to loose the three square mounting rubbers which slide on to the three lower locating lugs on the bottom of the speedo. I removed these and left them in the empty speedo space ready for reassembly)There are two electrical connections at the back of the unit and two cable holders holding both cables in position. remove the cables from the holders and now the speedo unit can be twisted to access the rear and enable the two connections to be removed. (The black release bar on the connections clicks when fully open and closed)
I would advise changing all the bulbs as I found a couple which I hadn't realised were blown.
I wouldn't advise getting LED SMD bulbs as I discovered, they don't really work in this unit. they're too bright and too short and illuminate areas alongside.
E.G. The temp warning light illuminated the stop etc.
If you need to go into the unit to fix a dodgy speedo needle then remove the 10 cross head screws and carefully prise the tabs off the top and bottom of the unit for both the black back cover and the front clear cover .
This will allow access to the speedo needles. Take note of how far the needles sit off the facia as this is crucial on reassembly to avoid either the needles sticking/not moving (pressed too far in) or being floppy (too far out) as you can see from the photo above .. it was a learning point Thanks CitroJim!
You can then remove the speedo stepper motor by squeezing the two plastic mounts and withdrawing the motor from the pcb.
Give the contacts a spray of suitable cleaning fluid, I also extended the spring fingers slightly to ensure a better contact, and reassemble. The stepper motor will only fit one way.
Now reassemble the unit relocate the needles leaving the required 1-2mm space from the surface of the unit, but before replacing the front of the unit I reconnected it to the car making sure all the lights worked and making sure the temp and fuel needles rested where they should and then started the car and made sure the rev counter needle worked and the remaining lights went out.
If that all works then reassembly is the reverse procedure.
However I did find that I had to take it apart again after had been for a run as the speedometer was over reading by 15 mph so I would advise taking the car for a run and comparing GPS and Speedo readings before completely screwing everything together
Lastly the big time waster was refitting the steering wheel shroud as it took ages relocating the bottom shroud into the bottom metal mount and then gettng the top shroud to fit properly with the bottom whilst screwing in the long screws... an extra pair of hands would've been useful.
Finally good luck. If I've missed anything out or anyone has a further shortcut, please let me know. I've tried to highlight the screws.
I hope this of use to someone,
Chris
Mk1 follows with thanks to andmcit amd his dad
