DS5: AFIL Reftofit

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MacSlavko
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DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

Evercince I bought my DS5 I've been contemplating on how to retrofit AFIL function! That's how PSA calls 2 systems; HBA aka "High Beam Assist" and LDW aka (unintended) Lane departure Warning.
You could find these on prefacelift DS5s more often, but later DS branded models were somewhat stripped down with equipment so this function became quite rare to find.

For more than 2 years I've bean looking up and collecting any useful information on how to install this in a second-hand car that didn't came with AFIL from factory. And I managed to gather almost everything I needed.
Special thanks for that to Albin and AlexMux from Drive2.ru; Leloman Lelo from DSTeam Portugal on FB and another member of that group: Rodrigo "the magician" from Brasil!

Now; here's what I did:
1) Automatic headlamp dipping
First step was gathering the Hw so the camera was obviouslly a mast-have. Not easy to find one, though! Took me 6 months till I found one in great condition and for a reasonable price (150€).
The camera replaces factory light/rain sensor on the windshield and you can use two of its wires (12V and GND). Other two you need to add in black connector on BSI (pins 10 and 12) and run them up the ceiling where the camera now is. Those two are CanH and CanL wires that will bring various information to BSI; if your car is centred within the lane, proximity of beams from the cars coming towars you (or the rear lights in front of you) as well as the rain and sunshine presence/level at given time. Once all Hw mounted and connected, you proceed to Sw, that is Diabox (offline) telecoding.

In BSI (within Miscellaneous section) you mark CMV camera as present (CMF in that manu), while selecting previous light/rain sensor as absent at the same time. I discovered that telecoding was sucessful only with engine off (but key in reader slot and with ignition ON, of course). That presumes your starter battery is in good shape and won't go in Economy mode for at least 5-7 minutes till you're done with telecoding...
Under Lights-Signaling section you also select Automatic headlams activation option as Present and Presence of the main beam headlamp assistant function. And that's all the telecoding for HBA!

Now you need buttons next to the steering wheel to switch those two functions On and Off. But those too are somewhat hard to find...
So in absence of those I added two virtual buttons in Drive menu of the NAC/RCC touchscreen (can't do it with older RT6 head unit - you need physical buttons for that system). But for adding missing functions and features without Diagbox and without access to Stellantis servers you need Arduino tool. That's bacically Arduino PCB and a CAN Bus Shield. All well explained in VLud's tutorial (in French) who exploited this method and made his sw free for personal use.
Depending on how savvy you are in IT, the virtual buttons will be telecoded to the touchscreen with more or less effort, but they wouln't stay ON unless you do a trick (thanks Rodrigo)! It takes adding one wire on pin 16 of the white connector to electronic dials on the dash (yeah, you need to remove the panel out). And with that wire you once touch any ground point you can find (there's a metal bar behind the clocks). That triggers the virtual button of Auto lights to ON position. If you turn it off on the touchscreen, it takes touching the GND point once more to set it to ON again. Touching the GND another time toggles it Off and so on.

Now with all the Hw and Sw done, and with Automatic headlamp dipping set to ON you're ready for the night drive to test it out! The lights on the indicator stalk must be in Auto position (so your low beam engages automatically) and then you pull the stalk towards you to engage the high beam. At that point high beam will stay on if there's no car comming towards you and you're not under the street lights, but in the dark on the open road. At the same time one new notiffication light comes up on the dashboard, letting you know that from that moment CMV camera and BSI handle switching between H and L beams and you can just enjoy the drive...

This is exactlly where I am now. Happy to have made this and grateful to anyone who contributed...

Once I obtain the physical AFIL buttons, I will add description on how to connect them to BSI so everything is as from the factory.
The same goes for the Lane Departure Warning. As soon as I get a hold on vibro-motors that go under the driver's seat and their Ecu, I'll proceed with second part of the AFIL retrofit and share here how it was done...
😎
Attachments
In action.JPG
Notiffication lamp.png
BSI (svjetla).png
BSI (razno).png
Virtual buttons.jpg
Telecoding sw.png
Arduino+Shield.png
Routing wires.png
CanH&L wires in BSI.png
CMV mounted.png
CMW in place.png
CMV.png
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MacSlavko
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

Control buttons added as well!
😎
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

The AFIL Ecu sourced as well!
Will install it, connect it to BSI and do the telecoding when I get a weekend off.

Now the only part of the puzzle that’s missing are two vibro-motors for under the seat… But those seem to be really hard to find!
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GiveMeABreak
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by GiveMeABreak »

You really like a challenge don't you? :-D

And I spend half the time turning my LDWS off every journey! :rofl2:
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Marc
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MacSlavko
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

I like to have all the optional extras available.
😎

On which car was LDWS giving you hard times?
It’s really easy on DS5 to turn it off. And BSI remembers that choice so it’s not required pressing the ON/OFF button every time you start the engine.
Wish it was the case for Start&Stop as well!
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by GiveMeABreak »

I have a button to switch off LDWS on my Aircross - the only time I use it is on the motorway as the roads where I live are very twisted, so always cutting across the line!
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

The last part of the puzzle is finally here!
Two vibro-motors sourced from local PSA dealership (55€ each).
Now it's only (I hope) a matter of time till I get that LDWS working!
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by GiveMeABreak »

Believe me you're better off without it! :-D
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

I want that to be a choice…
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NotAnInterestingName
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by NotAnInterestingName »

That's an astounding amount of trouble to go to, well done for the amazing dedication.

The headlight/LDWS option was a £350 option, and for some reason was only available with the Nappa or Semi-Analine leather upgrades. I don't know if this was for technical reasons, perhaps the fitting of the motors while upholstering, or perhaps just to keep it as an upmarket option only. But they're going to be really hard to find as they will be very rare, at least among DS5s. It may be a shared part with other models though.

Mine has the Semi-Analine (watchstrap) seats. It was originally a PSA company or show car, the service history shows it was serviced at their training college. Whoever ordered it ticked almost every option but didn't tick this one, perhaps they hit their budget limit or perhaps they chose to not have it. But it does seem that many don't want it. I've never driven a car with it, but I've heard complaints about it.
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MacSlavko
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

It is quite a lot of trouble to install it, indeed. Finally all done today... 🥃

Yes, it's also a certain dedication (2+ years process) of gathering all the information needed to put it all together!
Getting and understanding electric diagrams was a task I've never been through before. I learnt something new at the end! :-)
Then it was also a hassle to source all the parts needed. Took me almost 6 months for that alone! :-)
Vibro-motors I bought at dealership as used ones were nowhere to find. And it was the cheaper option (one used in Netherlands was at 60€ price)!

Couldn't remove front left bolt to release the driver's seat today, so lifted the seat at max. hight and fidled the vibro-motors on ther place by (somewhat squized) hand, aided with two lamps and a mirror. But happy to have managed it, against all odds!

Interesting feeling now when crossing the line without the indicatior (above 80 km/h)! The vibration is gentle, but strong enoug to feel something strange beneath your ar*e. Just about right, I'd say.
Whish I could alter the parameters for a bit earlier warning, or set a lower speed threshold, but I don't think there's an option for that (neither in Diagbox nor in Arduino software).

Now it's factory Denon audio system with subwoofer the only thing this DS5 lacks. No intention to retro fit it, though! I’ll take a break now! 😎
All the other whistles and blows are there. And it's now the car I wanted when I was looking for one!

As one rare car owner recently said to me; "It's not about how much money you've put in it or how much time and effort it took. It's rather about how big smile it brings on your face whenever you sit in that car..."

I'm wearing a smile now and that's what matters, I guess! 🤩

Finally, I want to stress out a huge thanks to Alex from Russia and Rodrigo from Brasil for their unceasing help throughout this project! Without their (unlimitted) support and patience I would never get this upgrade done!
🙏🏻💜🍺
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ramos_45
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by ramos_45 »

Hello, i'm from Spain and want to do the same mod to my ds5. I have the camera and waiting to the other components, but i have some doubt.

What is the reference of the pins you used in the bsi connector? Where i can buy It?

If i dont buy the physical buttons, the system are on or off?

Is needed to wiring the vibrator module to the bsi, or It have pre-installed connectors?

Thanks and sorry for my bad english
Last edited by ramos_45 on 31 Jan 2024, 12:29, edited 1 time in total.
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MacSlavko
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

Best you buy the physical buttons as well 'cause it's simpler to install the whole thing and you can easily turn it On/Off when you wish.
Without physical buttons, you need two wires from dials cluster to touch the ground point (a metal bar) for turning On the function. Once turned on, you engage automatic high beams by pulling the lights/indicator lever towards you (that's OK), but you can't do the same for Lane Departure Warning (vibro-motors). You'd need the said wire to touch the ground point (that requires pulling out dials cluster) every time you want/don't want electromotors in the seat to warn on unintended lane crossing (above 80 km/h)...

Attached is the wiring diagram. You connect the camera to the vertical black connector in BSI, vibro-motors ECU to the blue connector in BSI and AFIL switches to the green one (note that color marks on diagram are written in French).

You'll need pins (like Duppont ones, but slightly bigger) to insert into the appropriate empty positions on each of those connectors - as marked on diagram (ie. for the camera you add Can High and Can Low wires on positions 10 and 12 of the black connector). Earth and 12V+ wire to camera you use from the existing rain/sunshine sensor while the third wire from that sensor (LIN) gets obsolete.

In most cases (especially on facelift models) there are no pre-installed wires - so you'll have to do your own wiring, but that's not the problem.

At the end, you'll need Diagbox to enable new equipment functions in BSI.
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ramos_45
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by ramos_45 »

thank you so much!

I understand that there will be no pre-installation of connectors either in the vibro motor module or in the button panel, right? Basically you have to go through all the wiring and connections of the modules that you have marked in the diagram yes or yes.

If you install the button panel, is it also necessary to remove the cluster for those 2 pins?

Can't you tell me what type of pins you used or where you bought them? It's the biggest problem I have.

I have diagbox and sedre, that wouldn't be a problem
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Re: DS5: AFIL Reftofit

Post by MacSlavko »

Yeah, you'll need to pull the wires yourself, but that's no problem. Take off the plastic covers, have a look on where is the best way to go and do it slowly and patiently. Plan some extra time if you get stuck at some point along the way...

First and most important is to understand the diagram. Took me several days till I figured it out (this is the first diagram I ever read). Drive2. ru site was very helpful to me as the guys there described well what they did and put a lots of photos as well. I'll add links bellow.

Power to AFIL ECU goes from pin 11 on green plug and CAN H&L from 16, 18 on blue plug. I pulled out ground from cigarette lighter GND wire.

For instalation I used Dupont wires with female pins to attach on BSI male pins, but they needed to be a bit wider, as the ones on BSI ara one size bigger. I widened mine with a smal-mechanics screwdriver. Once you unclip any of 3 connectors, you can test if your modified Dupont pins will sit tightly on a BSI male pin. Then you insert it on appropriate position in a connector (ie 10 and 12 on black connector is Can H&L wires for camera - for + and ground you use two exixting wires from LIN ran and sunshine sensor). Then you go forward with running the new wires to thier positions (to camera, AFIL Ecu and vibro-motors under the seat). If there already was a wire present - I would cut open the insulation layer, join my new wire and insulate it securly back again.

If you get stuck somewhere, think how you can avoid the obstacle. For instance: I couldn't mount the AFIL ECU to its dedicated place, so I secured it in an empty space next to the AET6 gear stick (under the cover). I also couldn't remove the driver's seat from the runners (front left bolt was unaccassible), but i managed to deploy vibro-motors in their place with seat in its fully up position. And the wires to vibro-motors I could't run through the bottom insulation foam, but I simply run them under the plastic side cover of the central consol (next to the driver's seat).

I did wires on cluster as per diagram. On the white plug behind the left screen you add two wires on position 4 and 6. Those wires you connect on AFIL switch, positions 10 and 12. Don't know if it would work witouth them - I didn't try it. But it's easy to pull dials cluster out (see the first link). I think it's needed so you have the AutoLights indicatior on the dashboard - once engaged by pulling the indicator lever. But the other one (for Lane Departure Warning) doesn't appear on the dials screen so it might be unnecessary - try it out. Maybe It would appear if I added wires 16 and 17 to positions 4 and 6 on AFIL switch? I don't know...

You may want to check out YouTube channel from Rodrigo Schroeder from Brasil. That's a guy who's done AFIL and a lot of marvelous modifications on his DS5. He was a great help to me!


https://www.drive2.ru/l/596653284421279070/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/560835318756935977/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/638173042509367516/
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