Madame Ples - 1978 GS Club

[hloni]

well its more like the regulator will become damaged if the accumulator sphere is flat, as the ticking is the internals of the regulator banging against each other,

the accumulator sphere acts as a damper on the regulator, as well as being a reserve of pressure for the brakes

the ticking is at under 10 sec when idling, and slightly longer when driving (when I come to a halt at the traffic lights, the pulsating is more infrequent - IF that makes sense).

Question then is WHAT MUST I DO to prevent further damage?
I did notice earlier today when the car is idling and I press the break, car drops an a tad (as if fluid being diverted from spheres to breaks and back again. Is that normal? I have though to let it idle for 20 sec or so to see this slight movement.

[citronut]

the first thing to do then is fit a new accumulate sphere, which is the one sitting on top of the gear box,

i personally would purchase it from GSF

[hloni]

Please assist to decipher what the dash lights are for:

1. Warning lights
2. Oil pressure light (I've never seen this come on even with ignition turned on!)
3. LHM reservoir? (this light comes on when I start the car but turn off couple of seconds once engine runs). Should/when does this light come on?
4. Indicator repeaters (left/right)
5.PLEASE HELP (it has a wiggly horizontal "line")
6.Bright lights
7.Driving lights
8. PLEASE HELP (has what looks like a pedal)
9.Choke
a. This turns and can be depressed

I must admit, the dash doesn't light up when the driving lights are on, so not sure if "a" is anything to do with the dash lights. The fact that it turns makes me suspect that it's for making dials brighter or dimmer.


The circled area worries me. Should I block it i.e. put a blank plate there as I don't know what it's for or whether I need it.

[citronut]

i think you have worked out the function of most of the lamps on the dash,

a is a dimmer switch which you rotate one way or the other to increase/decrease dash/instrument back lighting, pressing this does nout at all,

the pipe on the inlet manifold is to pre/heat the manifold,

and should be connected the the pipe coming up from the exhaust manifold, which is below the rocker covers,
this should have the lower section welded to the exhaust manifold, then from a joint with a clamp continue up the the bell end in you picy, and will have a matching triangular flange clamp, which mates up and bolted to ( with three 11mm bolts spanner size 7mm thread size ) the triangular flange clamp on the spout in your picy

[citronut]

maybe you need one of these in the link

http://tinyurl.com/oz7sy9t" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[citronut]

i re/read your question regarding the lamps

5) heated rear screen
8) this will come on along with STOP light if the hydraulic pressure or citro blood level is low

[hloni]

I do have an Autobooks Owners Worshop Manual (owm 861), but it looks like some of the stuff are not covered in detail. It's for 1971-1981 GS, GSA models.
I remember when I used to tinker with VW Beetles, it was good for one to own Autobook and Haynes simultaneously.

Citronut, I know that one could bypass the manifold pre-heat in the beetle (especially when one upgraded the exhaust system) and block the ends of the pre-heat pipes with really minimal affects - mind you, I'm down in South Africa, thus our cold days not as harsh as Europe. Knowing now that this is the pre-heat, can one simply block it off (or even leave it open), or will this affect the car in a negative way?

[hloni]

Thanx by the way for your valuable input.

[citronut]

no not a workshop manual but the owners manual that comes with the car from new, this shows what everything is for,

i personally would repair/reconnect the pre/heat pipes, i dont know if it will cause problems with it blanked of, there is one on the other side of the inlet manifold,

one problem i can see leaving it open is you will fill the cab with exhaust fumes, as it is an exhaust leak,