Some initial questions

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:16

Right, having swapped the insurance over I've taken the Activa on a quick drive round the block to the shop. The ARCS seems to work though cannot build enough speed to confirm. We are not blessed with as many roundabouts as Milton Keynes!

It seems to do the Activa-shuffle and had sunk overnight. Is this normal?

A grinding/rattling noise between around 2k - 2.5k which I suspect is exhaust?

Clutch bites fairly high - is this a quirk or is a clutch going to be needed in the next year or so?

How easy is the cambelt? Bearing in mind I've done one on the HDi.

and finally a non-Activa specific - Radio reception is poor. What could the cause?

I'm sure there will be many more questions to come over the next few weeks

Thanks

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:26

Hi Toby,

Activa Shuffle will be worn roll corrector rods and bushes. Very cheap to renew although dealer only...

Grinding noise: Will need to listen to that one. Not normal though. Could be rattly exhaust.

Clutch High: Normal

Cambelt: Dead easy

Follow my 206 guide on my website. Very similar. SEEM gauge recommended as has the same manual trensioner as the HDi. The cambelt is the easiest Xantia of all to do.

Duff amplifier in the aerial base. A specialist Series 2 person can advise
further. I'm a series one person and ours don't have them...

There. that's not bad is it...

Test the ARCs by going round and round a roundabout. You don't need to be going fast to feel it doing it's job. There should be no roll at any speed.

Although it's hard to know without disabling it, believe me, you'd know if there was a problem. My first one would only roll correct one way. Without the roll correction working they roll like an old drunk as effectively they have no anti-roll bars..... Lethel!

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:27

Goddammit Jim - you're keen this evening!!

Activa shuffle may even abate somewhat with a bit of use and a workout
(italian tuneup). These seem keen to sink I guess due to the prolificy of
spheres and plumbing and they DO take an age to pressurise and lift up
from first start of the day.

The grinding rattling noice could either be a leak on the exhaust manifold or
strain on the engine where torque is twisting on a tired top engine mount.
This I believe is the same as your HDi one in the vicinity of the os top
engine bay near the timing cover - the small three bolted back mounting.

Cambelt would be OK (simpler than XUD) if there was any access!!

Clutch is into unchartered territory. These can go a long distance with the
hydraulic clutch but they will eventually wear out.

Andrew

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:33

Thanks for that!

Not so bad then. I'm on holiday this week so I'll take it for a run tomorrow and see whats what.

Seats are comfy and generously bolstered!

andmcit · Unread post by **andmcit** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:35

Can't beat generous bolsters!!

Andrew

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 22 Jan 2010, 21:40

Sorry Andrew

I saw waht you said in Toby's other thread earlier

Actually I'm a bit dozy this evening. That ITIL exam today shattered me

It was a bit tough too

Toby, forgot to comment on the rear sinking.

It'll be a blown/ruptured rear corner sphere I expect. On a Hydractive car the rear corners can go totally flat and ruptured and you barely even know, especially on an Activa. One way is to force hard mode by pulling the Hydractive fuse and seeing if the rear is then totally solid... You may have to go for a short drive to prove.

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 22 Jan 2010, 22:33

Regarding the Activa-Shuffle, a post a few days ago reminded me of my car. The poster (Ken I think) mentioned that his did it every 15 seconds when stationery. Mine does a similar thing, although at longer intervals - funnily enough these intervals coincide with the regulator opening. The car will drop to the right, then raise slightly and then correct the roll as the regulator shuts. I suspect one of the Activa-specific spheres is duff - anybody any ideas which one might cause this? Might be worth Toby listening for the regulator to see if it's the same. Roll control rods and guides were changed under a year ago incidentally - well worth doing for the price if there is any doubt as to their condition.

On the other points, mine sinks quite a bit sometimes, especially at the back. And the clutch is quite high I'm told (normal to me though!). The first thing I'd check on ANY new Activa would be the top engine mount Andrew mentioned - mine was very clunky to drive until that was changed. Now it probably masks the bottom mount being knackered to a degree...

The best way I've found to test the ARCS is a small roundabout near home - when I flick left/right/left across it (just under 180 degrees) I'm always astounded at the speed and poise with which it changes direction. Makes the damned things worth putting up with!

Mine is on unsuitable tyres (Goodyear all-season) but the way it changes direction is still mind-boggling, even if outright cornering speed isn't.

James

Toby_HDi · Unread post by **Toby_HDi** » 22 Jan 2010, 22:36

One thing to note is the Accumulator may be getting near the end of its life. I listened when I was looking at the car and the inteval was around 20secs

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 22 Jan 2010, 22:54

Toby_HDi wrote:One thing to note is the Accumulator may be getting near the end of its life. I listened when I was looking at the car and the inteval was around 20secs

Hmm.. See if the shuffle coincides!

James

Xaccers · Unread post by **Xaccers** » 22 Jan 2010, 22:58

I'd expect to change all the spheres.
I changed the rear ones on Juliet as they were almost totally flat.
I need to get the front spheres checked and replaced if needed soon.

Hydroflush and then fresh LHM with giving the filters a good gentle scrub with an old toothbrush and petrol made the world of difference too.

Suspensionwise, the only problems I have left are the back rising too high on startup until with a clunk it drops to proper level and the ride becomes much softer, and also over rutted roads she feels a bit rattly.
The back dropping can take anywhere between 5 minutes and an hour to happen.

Other things to check are the heater matrix of course, and the state of the A/C. Juliet's runs but barely cools. I've got a new dryer off ebay for about £20 posted, and I'll fit that when I have her re-gassed after pay day.

DickieG · Unread post by **DickieG** » 22 Jan 2010, 23:14

Sl4yer wrote:The best way I've found to test the ARCS is a small roundabout near home - when I flick left/right/left across it (just under 180 degrees) I'm always astounded at the speed and poise with which it changes direction.

That exercise doesn't actually activate the roll correction as on such a quick manoeuvre all that happens is that the anti-roll bar stiffens by way of the corrector ram locking solid (the anti-roll bar on an Activa is very stiff), for roll correction where the rams push the car back level you need a long sweeping bend.

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 22 Jan 2010, 23:14

Xac wrote:...and also over rutted roads she feels a bit rattly.

Can't speak for other Activas, or even Xantias. Mine is the only one I've ever driven. But many reviews and roadtests point out that the Activa is, frankly, poor on poor road surfaces, especially compared to regular Xantias. So this might be normal. Mine certainly feels potholes and rough, irregular road surfaces more than I think it ought to. But a good drive in the Volcane tonight reminded me how good the Activa is, especially given the state of the roads at the moment. The Volcane rides much better over rough stuff than most newer 'better' cars, and it felt VERY bumpy!

James

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 24 Jan 2010, 21:40

DickieG wrote:
Sl4yer wrote:The best way I've found to test the ARCS is a small roundabout near home - when I flick left/right/left across it (just under 180 degrees) I'm always astounded at the speed and poise with which it changes direction.
That exercise doesn't actually activate the roll correction as on such a quick manoeuvre all that happens is that the anti-roll bar stiffens by way of the corrector ram locking solid (the anti-roll bar on an Activa is very stiff), for roll correction where the rams push the car back level you need a long sweeping bend.

Correct, you wont really notice the ARCS doing its job until your going well over 50mph. Roundabouts do work too, but large ones rather than mini roundabouts.

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 24 Jan 2010, 22:38

XantiaMan583 wrote:
DickieG wrote:
Sl4yer wrote:The best way I've found to test the ARCS is a small roundabout near home - when I flick left/right/left across it (just under 180 degrees) I'm always astounded at the speed and poise with which it changes direction.
That exercise doesn't actually activate the roll correction as on such a quick manoeuvre all that happens is that the anti-roll bar stiffens by way of the corrector ram locking solid (the anti-roll bar on an Activa is very stiff), for roll correction where the rams push the car back level you need a long sweeping bend.
Correct, you wont really notice the ARCS doing its job until your going well over 50mph. Roundabouts do work too, but large ones rather than mini roundabouts.

Sorry, but I do. The ARCS is activated fairly easily, and can certainly be felt around roundabouts at 20-30mph. Whether it's the initial ram locking, or the actual roll correction (which I feel is a misnomer anyway, since the rams act to prevent the roll) the ARCS is active.

Anyway, it's good fun!

James

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 24 Jan 2010, 22:54

Its not until higher speeds that you notice it though, that's not to say its not working.

As far as I understand, it initially works like a normal hydractive car, going into hard mode, then locking the anti roll bar solid and then the ram operating to counteract body movement over half a degree. The rams dont stop the roll from happening, that process still happens, its up to the ECU to decide when to correct, how much to correct at what speed etc. I could be wrong, but thats my take on things. I know under certain conditions, like when the engine is cold, it wont correct, nor will it correct if you simulate a quick side to movement on the steering wheel at low speed.

Any lean felt is often just the tyre sidewalls flexing, and your body moving in the seat!

At high speeds and swift changes of direction, the anti roll can really be felt, after a while it becomes normality and you forget how effective it is.