I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:07

Don't ever forget in my regular forays down to your neck of the woods I must pass quite close by...

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:08

....can I call you Daddy and will you show me how to do things to my car

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:10

Stickyfinger wrote:....can I call you Daddy and will you show me how to do things to my car

No! You can call me Sensei

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:20

Workshops will be clear in the morning

Day One...lost Whole day due to having a tooth out (cracked root)

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:23

Stickyfinger wrote: Day One...lost Whole day due to have a tooth out (cracked root)

Ohh, ouch...

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 16 Mar 2015, 19:48

most unpleasant on a cold day....now sitting here feeling sorry for myself

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 16 Mar 2015, 21:10

Well I did do one thing this morning (to take my mind off the tooth)

from this to that....One Original Witter Tow Bar ready to fit now....and I have the ramps.

Wired, dry heated and phosphated, wet coat zinc primer and two layers chassis black with a silver enamel over that. Dry heated over night to cure.

FYI...IF you have a Witter Tow Bar fitted....the Powder Coating is CRAP and your rear crash bar mounts are possibly rusting.
Based on what I had, Witter should be ashamed to release a product with such poor coatings.........dreadful condition

Hell Razor5543 · Unread post by **Hell Razor5543** » 16 Mar 2015, 21:25

Nice job of getting them right.

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 16 Mar 2015, 22:36

I will use Waxoil on all bolts/surfaces (with new bolts) when I bolt it back up, then 3M Body Schutz over the lot.

This was a good test for the phosphate I have, a rather higher concentration than CureRust and such. Also, it does not have that horrid varnish in it.

You have to wash the towbar and dry heat it quick, keep it hot (on top of the woodburner in the garage), mask up and apply. Keep it hot and allow to dry then wet coat with a zinc primer. Allow it to dry as the metal cools then apply the chassis black 1st coat and allow to dry and the metal to cool off, Thin wet coat 2nd black layer, allow to flash then top coated with enamel thinned a little with cellulose thinners.

Working with cast Iron I am anal about corrosion as you can tell

Hell Razor5543 · Unread post by **Hell Razor5543** » 16 Mar 2015, 23:28

No, you are cautious due to experience.

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 17 Mar 2015, 14:56

Strip down bay now clear and ready for the two donator cars tomorrow........and the ramps fit with 3 foot to spare, electric roller shutter.

area is twice as big as the photo (add to the left) with an office thru a door, the dirty workshop is 4 times that, so I should have the space

Must remember not to set things on fire when welding with a Tri-Wall plastic roof

AND....BIG NEWS...I have a sniff at a UK Activa, 90k miles, NO RUST dry stored and ZERO leaks suspended on year old spheres and one new ram, chipped 2lt.TCT

I never knew...but the UK Police in Hampshire used V6-Man Activa

Unread post by **wurlycorner** » 17 Mar 2015, 15:09

Lovely job on that towbar, very smart!
Can I recommend you to Dinitrol instead of Waxoyl though - far superior products in my experience. I used to swear by Waxoyl but honestly it is crap in comparison and I won't be going back!

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 17 Mar 2015, 15:24

Thanks.....having the dirty area and a spray booth all set up helps a lot in keeping things clean then a good finish is hard not to achieve....clean and you get into heaven as my old Nana Moria used to say

I will be using the WackyOil just for sealing the mating surfaces and bolts ect so I expect it to hold up there....I have 3 Ltrs to use up. The paint should hold up well now but I will put a layer of under-seal over it when mounded just to add a more shock absorbent surface.

I will use it in non critical areas and build-ups only as you are not the first to make a recommendation for Dinatrol. I intend to go right thru the car with it ? how does it apply in box sections ?

I also like 3M Car Body Schutz if there is the correct layers of protection underneath it.....its a pig to spot a bodge thru so I only trust the factories and any of my work under it |:)

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 18 Mar 2015, 20:12

OK...Project START DATE...18/03/2015

Cars Arrived.... and I see a very good UK car tomorrow, one with defo NO RUST, so fingers crossed I will not have to travel to France or do the RHD conversion
(given that he may say a stupid price....funny bloke at times)

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 Mar 2015, 20:15

Looking forward to the result of your viewing of the very good one Sticky...

Good to hear the other two have arrived safely....

French Car Forum

I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

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