Leaky ram and electrovalve!

Contains the Activa Register, Buyers Guide and Activa "finds" on eBay and elsewhere. Post Activa-specific items that do not fall naturally into the Citroen Forum.
User avatar
Dommo
(Donor 2025)
Posts: 1210
Joined: 11 Apr 2009, 09:43
x 20

Post by Dommo »

One more question (sorry! :oops: )

Is the leak off pipe that comes out of the end of the electrovalve usually brittle when it comes off? I'm only wondering because I know that the diesel leak off pipes between the injectors on my 306 were extremely brittle/perished and once you'd taken them off they wouldnt seal properly again. I did wonder if this leak could be the same problem but it's got a clip on it so it's not likely.

Cheers.
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

No, they usually remain soft enough Dom. It's only low pressure in there and 999 times out of a thousand you can gently ease them off the electrovalve without even unsnapping the clip.

I find the best way is to rotate the pipe a little to break it's old seal on the metal spigot and then gently pull it off.

No worries on all the questions by the way, just keep 'em coming!
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
Dommo
(Donor 2025)
Posts: 1210
Joined: 11 Apr 2009, 09:43
x 20

Post by Dommo »

Brill, thanks again Jim.

I've just removed the electrovalve off the spare hydractive sphere block I've got.

Should the electrovalve body and bit with the electical connector move independantly of the innerds?

Cheers. I might make a start on removing the activa electrovalve and see what happens. Will much LHM leak out after depressurising the system? It won't do a constant slow drip or anything will it?
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

Excellent Dom :D There, that was not too bad was it?
Dommo wrote: Should the electrovalve body and bit with the electical connector move independantly of the innerds?
Yes, totally normal. If you do ever have one that come apart, you'll see the coil is designed to rotate, otherwise you'd never be able to screw it into the block.. It's kept tight by a big crinkle washer...
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
Dommo
(Donor 2025)
Posts: 1210
Joined: 11 Apr 2009, 09:43
x 20

Post by Dommo »

Brill I thought as much. And yes it was nice and easy! I've got the back end on axle stands. Does it matter if the drive isn't flat? The cars leaning toward the passenger side. Does that mean there's excess pressure in the activa sphere?? Or does openig that valve on the regulator sort that problem? Cheers again
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

No, the fact the drive is not flat won't worry at all but I hope you have the car very well supported Dom. You don't want to be working under there unless it's 100% very securely supported and there is NO risk whatever of it falling. Remember if you need to pull on a spanner underneath, that can topple a marginally supported car. Safety first always!

The leaning is nothing to do with pressure. You will need, as a later job, to set up your roll corrector linkages to properly align the Activa system.

Xac is the top consultant on that topic!!!!
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
Dommo
(Donor 2025)
Posts: 1210
Joined: 11 Apr 2009, 09:43
x 20

Post by Dommo »

Good god this is a difficult job!

Jim have you ever taken the activa sphere block off?

I've taken the spare wheel carrier out, undone the three long bolts holding the sphere block in place, and taken that leak off pipe off. It all sounds so easy but it's taken me 2 hours of crawling about on the floor. Now all that's left connected are two big thick LHM lines and a really thin LHM line.

I can't see how you'd undo the thick LHM line closest to the front of the car, there's simply no way to get a tool in. I reckon that citroen would drop the rear subframe down but I don't fancy that! I'm going to see if I can get the electrovalve out now I've got a little bit of movement, but I dont want to wrench the LHM lines about..

Cheers.
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

Dommo wrote: Jim have you ever taken the activa sphere block off?
No, I confess not Dom but I do know where it is :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: Access is a trifle poor..

You know, you may find it a help to drop the subframe. It's dead easy to do as well. Two jacks under the boxes below the trailing arm bearings, remove four bolts, gently lower the jacks and down it comes. You should be able to drop it far enough to work without disconnecting anything.

I have dropped a subframe although not an Activa one. I have a subframe growing in my garden!!!

Don't worry overly about the hydraulic lines, they have a fair bit of give in them.
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
Xaccers
Posts: 7654
Joined: 07 Feb 2007, 23:46
x 185

Post by Xaccers »

Ah correcting the Activa lean :)

You will need:
1 tape measure with 73mm marked
1 torch
1 short magnetic spirit level
2 13mm spanners
Ramps/pit - basically anything that lets you get under the front of the car with it's front wheels on something solid that's high enough as not to squish you should the car drop all the way down to low and make a mess
1 Activa sized area of level ground
1 leaning Activa

With the front wheels up on the ramps on level ground, engine running and height selector on normal, get under the front of the car to the roll corrector behind the engine.
Attach the spirit level to the flat subframe.
Out of each side of the roll corrector is a 13mm hexagonal union attaching the RC to the wishbone linkages.
Ensure the linkages are not pressing against the body of the car, if they are, slacken the 13mm bolt that holds them to the wishbones, adjust to free them, then re-tighten.
Using the torch and tape measure, check the distance between the far ends of the threads either side of the unions are 73mm apart.
Release the 13mm lock nuts, move them well away from the unions to allow free movement of it, and adjust accordingly so the threads are 73mm apart.
Let the car settle.
Check the spirit level.
If the car is leaning, rotate both unions by 3 flat sides, doesn't matter which direction as long as they are both turned the same direction.
See if the car leans more or less.
If it doesn't move at all, turn it another 3 flats.
Basically I can't remember which way leans the car left and which way is right, so you'll have to adjust the unions to get the car to move to find out.
Once you've found which direction corrects the lean, adjust both unions one flat at a time until the car is level.
Get out from underneath the furnace that is the engine, take several steps back from the car and visually check how level it is.
Adjust as required then lock the unions in place.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)

DIY sphere tool
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

Excellent stuff Xac. Many thanks indeed. I'd like this as a sticky thread in the supersticky :D
Xac wrote:
You will need:
1 leaning Activa
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
myglaren
Forum Admin Team
Posts: 28501
Joined: 02 Mar 2008, 13:30
x 5606

Post by myglaren »

Xac wrote:Ah correcting the Activa lean :)

You will need:
1 tape measure with 73mm marked
1 torch
1 short magnetic spirit level
2 13mm spanners
Ramps/pit - basically anything that lets you get under the front of the car with it's front wheels on something solid that's high enough as not to squish you should the car drop all the way down to low and make a mess
1 Activa sized area of level ground
1 leaning Activa

With the front wheels up on the ramps on level ground, engine running and height selector on normal, get under the front of the car to the roll corrector behind the engine.
Attach the spirit level to the flat subframe.
Out of each side of the roll corrector is a 13mm hexagonal union attaching the RC to the wishbone linkages.
Ensure the linkages are not pressing against the body of the car, if they are, slacken the 13mm bolt that holds them to the wishbones, adjust to free them, then re-tighten.
Using the torch and tape measure, check the distance between the far ends of the threads either side of the unions are 73mm apart.
Release the 13mm lock nuts, move them well away from the unions to allow free movement of it, and adjust accordingly so the threads are 73mm apart.
Let the car settle.
Check the spirit level.
If the car is leaning, rotate both unions by 3 flat sides, doesn't matter which direction as long as they are both turned the same direction.
See if the car leans more or less.
If it doesn't move at all, turn it another 3 flats.
Basically I can't remember which way leans the car left and which way is right, so you'll have to adjust the unions to get the car to move to find out.
Once you've found which direction corrects the lean, adjust both unions one flat at a time until the car is level.
Get out from underneath the furnace that is the engine, take several steps back from the car and visually check how level it is.
Adjust as required then lock the unions in place.
Can you copy and paste this into a new thread in the Supersticky forum please Xac?
User avatar
Xaccers
Posts: 7654
Joined: 07 Feb 2007, 23:46
x 185

Post by Xaccers »

myglaren wrote:Can you copy and paste this into a new thread in the Supersticky forum please Xac?
Done, over to you to make it sticky.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)

DIY sphere tool
User avatar
Dommo
(Donor 2025)
Posts: 1210
Joined: 11 Apr 2009, 09:43
x 20

Post by Dommo »

I think we're going to end up lowering the subframe, shame it's raining! And while we're there we will try and attack that rust (seen on the photos of the electrovalve), grind it off, kurust it, then waxoyl it. Should keep it a bit more protected than it is at the moment.

I'm going to ask my mate if I can borrow his jack as we've only got one.

We've dropped the front subframe and rear beam on my 306 so it can't be that hard, right? :lol:
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

Xac wrote:Done, over to you to make it sticky.
Done! made sticky!

Thanks Xac :D
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
User avatar
CitroJim
A very naughty boy
Posts: 54699
Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
x 8157

Post by CitroJim »

Dommo wrote:We've dropped the front subframe and rear beam on my 306 so it can't be that hard, right? :lol:
No, it's not :D

One thing to bear in mind is that the hydraulic pipes and ABS wiring to the subframe is contained in a plastic conduit on the LH side. Remove the lid of this conduit by unclipping it. If you don't the pipes will damage the conduit cover as the subframe drops.

There is another on the RH side but this only (as far as I recall) carries the wiring to the hydractive electrovalve. I believe all you need do is disconnect the connector to the valve and there is enough free play in the wiring then.
Jim

A bit of a Citroen AX fan...