new addition to fleet

[jgra1]

Lexi yes.. the fluid (I hope) from the torque converter is red close up, and black from distance..
£10 per litre according gsf, and around 8 litres..
The gearbox filter I guess is hiding behind the black plate on the front of the box.. I wont be going near any of this for a while though.. the car needs rebuilding and to prove herself a little bit..

[jgra1]

chaps, can I ask some advice..

maybe later I will change the cambelt.. the crank sprocket is able to move a few degrees as the woodruff (on both engines) is not a snug fit.. this may be the same as the 136HP Hdi..
any guidance on this? I am guessing the sprocket needs to 'rest' against the woodruff against the direction of engine rotation.. i.e. it should be as far anti clockwise as it can be?
thanks for any pointers..

[jgra1]

Fine tuning of the cam timing ... grrr
I may opt to fit in the middle of the adjustment ..make sure all turns ok and leave it there.. I guess it can be quite easily adjusted on the car in future..

On a different note I am thinking to leave injectors loose for a while (after swapping them over) Once engine back in I could turn it over many times to gain some oil movements around engine ?

[jgra1]

all.. has anyone ever found a teaspoon of granules of steel in their sump?
the only consolation for me is the sump drain plug never lets all of the oil out..
thanks
J

[Stickyfinger]

Is it ferrous or non ferrous ? that will tell you what it is not...at least

[jgra1]

It's magnetic Alastair.. that's why I thought steel..
grr what a nightmare pit of cash

These lumps are in the replacement engine's sump

Maybe it got left there in the beginning.. maybe something went wrong and now all is ok


Maybe maybe
I think i have to finish up and take the consequences..

[lexi]

If the crank pully is the floating type, like my C5 Tractor, the castellated cut out in pulley has to be central to woodruff key.
IE equal spacing of the gap either side of key. Shim it with something to keep it equal as you tighten pulley. Your high tech engine may be different.
Sometimes steel shavings in sump like that can be when crank is driving against end thrust washers. That is extreme though and usually ends in seizure.

[centurus2400]

I've been reading this with interest, but sadly can't see the pictures

All I can say is that I've had my 2.0 X7 Exclusive Tourer for over a year now, and it is a superb car.
I'm sure that when you get yours back on the road you'll be delighted with it.
Keep up the good work!

[wurlycorner]

It's not good for metal shavings to be in the sump, no. However, with modern (cheap/quick/dirty) manufacturing techniques, maybe it is now 'normal'

Does the engine have a magnetic sump plug? It's not unusual to get a light build up of soft metal 'fur' on those, on any engine.

[jgra1]

This picture thing is odd.. will see what i can do.. i upload the pictures to something called google photos and then try and copy the link..

thanks all for replies..
Will do more granule investigations later .. almost praying now the newer turbo has started to disintegrate

[civvie]

John,
Re the pictures, I can't see them either all it shows is "images" I double click them nothing happens, but if I right click it shows a menu I click show image it then asks me to sign in to my Google account, as I don't have one (or want) they don't show. But I can see the two pictures at the start of the thread, a picture of the engine with bonnet up plus a view of your garage/workshop.
Getting it all put back and working is more important to you at the mo. Good luck mate.
Sorry can't assist in any more info then given so far. If I were a bit nearer to you I'd give you a hand

Steve

[bobins]

I could see the pics the other day, I can't see them today. Strange.

[jgra1]

Steve many thanks, that is very kind of you
will look at pic issue later when I can. ... bobins that is odd

My office party is on Friday and my only smart shoes are stuck in the loft above car and I cant get them down this must be the most unusual reason for a speedy engine refit ! as it happens I wont be able to move the car by then so will have to sneak in to meal with trainers on..

I think what I am going to do now is :
grab the granules and clean them and take a pic
take a quick look at bores and big end movements
collect the turbo feed pipe waiting at the dealers and fit..
swap injectors between engines (new seals also at dealers)
clean and refit the sump with a homemade gasket
refit engine properly but leave the driveshafts/hubs alone for now
fill her with cheap oil, and water
turn engine manually as much as I can, to get some oil back around
fit something to take exhaust gas out of building..
see what happens when key is turned..


if she runs, sounds ok I will continue for as long as I can, and then drain oil and remove sump and check..
if nothing obvious, I may fit a magnetic sump plug, refit sump with the sealant, put the proper oil in, the new coolant, a new filter and drive her.. then get a sample of oil sent to the lab after ?2weeks..

that's my best idea at the moment.. pulling the head apart to see what's what is a bit of pain, with no manual.. happy to do that with the original removed engine in due course
J

[Xantidote]

Fingers X John, that it all goes OK on re-assembly. I admire your tenacity

Going back 30+ years, before I got my first Citroen, I fitted a magnetic sump plug to both my Scimitars (Ford V6 engine).

Come friday, enjoy the party

[jgra1]

Thanks Martin..luckily there is a reduction in free red wine during party, otherwise on Saturday I may end up accidentally putting engine in boot