While I'm here a huge thanks to CitroJim, Lawrence and everyone else that's chipped in. Doubt I could have done this otherwise 8)
Glow Plug Woes
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evilally
- (Donor 2020)
- Posts: 742
- Joined: 17 Apr 2008, 22:39
- x 3
Hi guys, 130 miles and it's still running, I've been watching the oil and coolant like a hawk. The only slight concern I have is that there is a little oil leaking from the cam cover seal, even although I did them to the specified torque. I've tightened the nuts up further, is this anything to worry about? I'm curious as to why there would be sufficient pressure to drive oil out
While I'm here a huge thanks to CitroJim, Lawrence and everyone else that's chipped in. Doubt I could have done this otherwise 8)
While I'm here a huge thanks to CitroJim, Lawrence and everyone else that's chipped in. Doubt I could have done this otherwise 8)
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
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CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 54888
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 8255
That's bloody marvelous 
No worries on the bit of oil, often happens. Normally the gasket is not quite seated or there was a bit of oil on the sealing face that allows more oil out by capillary action...
Pop it off, clean up really well, ensure the gasket is fully seated, especially around the cap cap edges, and all will be well.
On the subject of cam caps, did you reseal the two outer cam caps with a touch of sealant. They will leak oil at the edges if you don't. If yiur leaks are on each end of the cover, this'll be the cause.
Again, well done, sterling work 8)
No worries on the bit of oil, often happens. Normally the gasket is not quite seated or there was a bit of oil on the sealing face that allows more oil out by capillary action...
Pop it off, clean up really well, ensure the gasket is fully seated, especially around the cap cap edges, and all will be well.
On the subject of cam caps, did you reseal the two outer cam caps with a touch of sealant. They will leak oil at the edges if you don't. If yiur leaks are on each end of the cover, this'll be the cause.
Again, well done, sterling work 8)
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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evilally
- (Donor 2020)
- Posts: 742
- Joined: 17 Apr 2008, 22:39
- x 3
Cheers Jim, I had previously just tightened things up a little, so far so good. Glad to hear it's normal. If it starts leaking again I'll take it off and give it a good clean.
As for cam caps, the place that overhauled the head had fitted them for me, hopefully they've done them right!
So, case closed I think, on to the next project 8)
As for cam caps, the place that overhauled the head had fitted them for me, hopefully they've done them right!
So, case closed I think, on to the next project 8)
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
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CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 54888
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 8255
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evilally
- (Donor 2020)
- Posts: 742
- Joined: 17 Apr 2008, 22:39
- x 3
With my new found car fixing skills, I might attempt to sort the gearbox and fit a new clutch. It's always crunched 3rd which really anoys me as I do a lot of b road driving. I have a working 306 gearbox in the garage, I'll need to research if that can go in as is, or if I need to fiddle about swapping synchros I also want to fit a set of coilovers to the Clio for the next track season. Whatever happens, I'm waiting for some better weather!
I also want to fit a set of coilovers to the Clio for the next track season. Whatever happens, I'm waiting for some better weather!'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
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Lawrence1973
- Posts: 100
- Joined: 16 Feb 2009, 22:19
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patanga
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 01 Jan 2011, 02:02
405 diesel head removal
Hi and thanks for all the great info. I have just started to do a similar repair myself and it seems that there is a bit more involved in removing the head from a 405 XUD motor than their 405 1.9 petrol cousin.
I'm new to the pug XUD and the forum. Thanks to the members at vegetableoildiesel.co.uk for sending me here.
The head on my XUD 405 is coming off because of an unusual head gasket oil leak at the front of the block. (see photo). I've double checked everything and the leak is definately at the head/block mating surface. Very strange???.
A few questions that someone might be able to assist with:
1) Going back a to timing the engine and bosch pump, can anyone post a photo of where the flywheel (engine timing) lock out hole is. I noticed that you had some joy finding the hole without removing the starter and I'm keen to do the same if possible.
2) Lesson learned re the lower crank pulley. I was going to leave mine on also but will go the extra yard to remove it based on the recommendation made here and the posted hindsight experience.
3) Regards the top engine mount removal.... I take it that when you say it needs to be removed completly that means including the entire alloy backet under the cam belt that mounts to the front face of the motor near the injector pump? Could someone please also advise on the size and type of dowel bolt (i.e. Torx bit or allen key) that holds the head to the front engine mount bracket
Thanks again for all the great tips.
Cheers
I'm new to the pug XUD and the forum. Thanks to the members at vegetableoildiesel.co.uk for sending me here.
The head on my XUD 405 is coming off because of an unusual head gasket oil leak at the front of the block. (see photo). I've double checked everything and the leak is definately at the head/block mating surface. Very strange???.
A few questions that someone might be able to assist with:
1) Going back a to timing the engine and bosch pump, can anyone post a photo of where the flywheel (engine timing) lock out hole is. I noticed that you had some joy finding the hole without removing the starter and I'm keen to do the same if possible.
2) Lesson learned re the lower crank pulley. I was going to leave mine on also but will go the extra yard to remove it based on the recommendation made here and the posted hindsight experience.
3) Regards the top engine mount removal.... I take it that when you say it needs to be removed completly that means including the entire alloy backet under the cam belt that mounts to the front face of the motor near the injector pump? Could someone please also advise on the size and type of dowel bolt (i.e. Torx bit or allen key) that holds the head to the front engine mount bracket
Thanks again for all the great tips.
Cheers
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evilally
- (Donor 2020)
- Posts: 742
- Joined: 17 Apr 2008, 22:39
- x 3
Hi Patanga, how are you getting on? There are a couple of replies to your thread over on vegoildiesel.
Finding that hole is a bit of a footer, as I recall it's directly to the right of the oil filler cap. It might be gummed up with grease and difficult to see. To be honest, I've had the starter motor off when I took the gearbox out, and it's very easy. It's held on by 3 easily accessible bolts. You don't have to diconnect everything, I'm sure just shifting it over a bit would suffice.
What did we say about the lower pulley? I left it on in the end, no problems.
I think you first need to remove the tensioner (careful of the spring) and then the mount. I think the bolt heads require an 11mm or 13mm socket, I don't recall which.
Finding that hole is a bit of a footer, as I recall it's directly to the right of the oil filler cap. It might be gummed up with grease and difficult to see. To be honest, I've had the starter motor off when I took the gearbox out, and it's very easy. It's held on by 3 easily accessible bolts. You don't have to diconnect everything, I'm sure just shifting it over a bit would suffice.
What did we say about the lower pulley? I left it on in the end, no problems.
I think you first need to remove the tensioner (careful of the spring) and then the mount. I think the bolt heads require an 11mm or 13mm socket, I don't recall which.
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k
'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
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patanga
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 01 Jan 2011, 02:02
Hi Evilally & thanks for your reply. I've since managed to get the head off ok.. I ended up taking the starter motor out as it was only held in by three 8mm Allen head bolts plus it gave me a much better view. I found the crank timing lock out hole quickly once that was out of the way. The lock out pin size is 8mm by the way. Removing the front crank pulley also made the rest of the removal job so much easier. I agree with you regards working with care removing the the timing belt adjuster spring. Having said that, once the crank pulley and lower front cover are removed it is easy to see how it functions and not such a challenge to remove. Getting it back in might be another issue 
With the pully and cover gone I was also able to easily remove the lower bracket of the top engine mount. That was my main concern as I wasn't sure if it was just a dowel of was bolted on in some way. Citrojim has also been very helpful with a few tips so it's all looking good so far. I'll post the end result...
With the pully and cover gone I was also able to easily remove the lower bracket of the top engine mount. That was my main concern as I wasn't sure if it was just a dowel of was bolted on in some way. Citrojim has also been very helpful with a few tips so it's all looking good so far. I'll post the end result...