I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

superloopy · Unread post by **superloopy** » 07 Jun 2015, 10:26

I managed to pull a 'copy' part off Ebay a couple of years ago. Came from Eastern europe and eas a good fit. Its on the mk 1 Activa. I've just recently refitted the original undertray to my TD just to get it out of the shed. Got sick if moving it around and as the fittings had long gone it was serving no useful purpose. Now it is [emoji4]

Unread post by **elma** » 07 Jun 2015, 11:38

I agree with everything said so far about brakes. I've tried pagid once, never again. Mintex are my supplier of choice too. Under trays are great, green feels incomplete without one. Shame they too big to print off as I'm after one as well. They should be clear though, save taking the things off as often.

chinkostu · Unread post by **chinkostu** » 07 Jun 2015, 12:00

Mines running cheapo brakes upfront, already had fade twice at speeds. Not fun!

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 07 Jun 2015, 19:41

refitted the rear badges and the new plates fitted

Unread post by **Skull** » 07 Jun 2015, 20:29

Looks like you'll need one of these as well

Unread post by **Skull** » 07 Jun 2015, 20:43

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WARNING-NURBE ... 5b1045eef5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 07 Jun 2015, 20:53

I have never run the "Ring" so could not fit that.

Unread post by **Skull** » 07 Jun 2015, 21:04

Sounds like an excuse for a road-trip

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 20 Jun 2015, 09:31

Well its been a week or so.....

My pump is still ticking with a fast-cycle time so it now needs attention................Its Snesei-Jim time (Jim will post the pressure test procedure using his Line-Pressure Gauge set up)

The first thing was to check the pressures on all the spheres, with Jim's sphere tool (ohwer ! ) and my new C5 tool we (he) attacked the ones I could not shift with the chain clamp I had been using.....all were easy EXCEPT one. It also showed (in particular with the supply pipe connectors) that SALT KILLS, it was great to see the pipe unions come free without any damage, also that they were in very good condition with little or no rust reflecting its French origins (No ham fist'd past abuse) and its Warm home (Southern France, no salt)

1.Main accumulator sphere...............................OK, refitted
2.Front suspension sphere................................OK, refitted (Both OK, grey type)
3.Rear suspension sphere.................................OK but both are low(ish), refitted but will replace (Green type)
4.Front active suspensions control sphere.............. FAIL , Green foam, 19/20, Tight all the way off, good replacement fitted from the Green Goblin
5.Rear active suspensions control sphere............... OK, refitted
6.Anti-sink systems sphere (SC.MAC)................... OK, refitted
7.Front Activa sphere (SC.CAR)..........................OK, refitted
8.Rear Activa sphere (SC.CAR).......................... OK, refitted
___The result___
The pump switching rate reduced, but it still had to work harder that it should, Jim was looking worried

as it was still not switching to soft mode correctly.

We moved onto the leak back check from the EV's
__The Result__
after all the struggles I had, these proved to be working correctly....ummm bu55er

We moved on to a Line Pressure Check......it is here we found problems and the exact procedure and the diagnosis will be posted by Jim.
__The Result__
I will let Jim detail or post a link to an earlier explanation but the result is I will send a pump and the front regulator off to Pleiades for rebuild, I will send off the Goblin pump and regulator and fit these on their return. I will then send the originals for rebuild and keep theses as my shelf spares stock.

The Chilli was great, coffee flowed and we had a good giggle on a nice warn day.....and man, DID I LEARN A MASSIVE AMOUNT !.....Jim mate, you are a star ! (Love the FlapJacks ! and sorry I had a BBQ Sauce/Bean/Sausage stew the night before !)

superloopy · Unread post by **superloopy** » 20 Jun 2015, 15:22

I've often wondered what sort of pressures are in the system. Will wait on jims write-up. Guessing yours was not up to snuff then?

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 20 Jun 2015, 16:06

170/180 I think, quite high

superloopy · Unread post by **superloopy** » 20 Jun 2015, 18:23

Is that good or bad? I'm asuming its bad cos you're getting them refurbed, yes?

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 20 Jun 2015, 19:03

It seems either the pump is weak or the regulator is "soft" so the system is not keeping pressure....
No pressure is lost on shutdown, so not a leak system side. The car is dry at all joints now not a dribble of LHM.....Jim will explain the details I hope, he has been out down south today.

I have "good 2nd hand units" on the shelf so why not rebuild both of those and be 100% happy. The ones on the car (may be) if faulty will need a rebuild anyway....but may be to far gone. I know the Goblins were working before strip down....but don't know how old/miles they have on them so I know there will be no problems rebuilding them.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 21 Jun 2015, 06:05

The pump and regulator from the GG will be no problem at all to refurbish Sticky, the work and the pros can bring practically anything hydraulic back from the dead..

Pleased Friday was valuable

I really enjoyed the day.. Your car is lovely to work on as you're not constantly battling corrosion

We checked for leakage by observing leakage from leakage returns on the electrovalves and observing leakage back into the LHM reservoir, which were all negligible. The car does not sink so that cleared the struts, HCs and dosuer so then it was time to check line pressure.

The gauge in question tees in between the pressure regulator outlet and the downstream hydraulic system.

It was there we saw the pump struggling to get to the regulator cutout pressure of 170 bar. In fact it was struggling to get past 120/130 bars and running almost constantly... Diagnosis weak pump...

It's not always appreciated that the hydractive electrovalves need both an electrical signal and adequate hydraulic pressure to switch. On a hydractive car the line pressure is critical to achieve clean switching.

Northerner wrote:I've often wondered what sort of pressures are in the system. Will wait on jims write-up. Guessing yours was not up to snuff then?

Mike, the line pressure should be 170 bar. The regulator cuts out at 170 and cuts back in at 140. These figures drop with time which is why it's a good idea to have them refurbished and recalibrated every now and again.

Sticky, I saw yesterday there were horse trials taking place near your place. How many were found guilty?

Stickyfinger · Unread post by **Stickyfinger** » 21 Jun 2015, 06:21

Sticky, I saw yesterday there were horse trials taking place near your place. How many were found guilty?

5x Guilty, for jumping bail

French Car Forum

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