Steering Rack Leak(?) + Outer Driveshaft Boot

[Sloppysod]

No sure about the range, as the angle from straight to full lock is 531° each way. Which I take as 600° being over travel. And as I get output the SAS unit is not broken.
The easiest will be the column one turn at a time, but what if the turn counter is jambed? Well I have 9 hours to decide my approach.

[GiveMeABreak]

Has the SAS actually been removed at all and re-positioned Stu?

I picked this up form somewhere on recalibration and de-calibration - which I guess you will need to do before recalibrating:

ABS/ESP > Configuration > De-calibrate steering sensor
ABS/ESP > Configuration > Calibrate steering sensor
<Message about driving for 100m>
Drive 100m in a perfectly straight line (and this means literally 100M minimum)!
Continue with calibration steps (press F1 a few times if I remember correctly).

The chap in this post had a replacement but the unit was a complete revolution out when it was fitted and had to remove it, rotate it and refit to cure:
https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... 13#p348940

[Sloppysod]

That was a useful read, thanks and that is all I think is wrong with mine, it is "?" turns out need to make sure of the direction first before turning it.
The description you found I had already read and found another one on aussifrogs who went into more detail. The 100 meter drive is to ensure the wheels are true. I can not do this as the battery in my laptop gives up after 15 minutes, have ordered a new one, that is when I came up with the masking tape and straight lines. The actual display on the diagnostic tool says the vehicle must be stopped.
Going to have another go this afternoon, and hopefully today will be the day.
Cheers
Stu.

[Paul-R]

The 100 meter drive is to ensure the wheels are true.

I've done it in the road outside our house. Nowhere near 100 metres - all I have done is back up a few metres and then drive forward a few metres. My laptop battery is also not very good and I usually run off an extension lead into the house. I'm still able to use the extension lead.

[Sloppysod]

Calibration Successful -
I was wrong - you do have to drive to a halt then carry out the calibration, I traveled about 70 paces connected the lap top - Now with New Battery - hey presto, first try it calibrated itself, I am glad or what.

Thanks for all your suggestions guys, its nice to have people to bounce things off of.

[Paul-R]

Ah, didn't realise that the car was still moving when you were trying to initialise. The bit about moving the car is only to make sure that the steering wheel is at straight ahead regardless of how the steering wheel spokes look.

[Sloppysod]

Ah, didn't realise that the car was still moving when you were trying to initialise

The car was not moving when I was trying to calibrate. It just did not move enough prior to me starting.

The bit about moving the car is only to make sure that the steering wheel is at straight ahead regardless of how the steering wheel spokes look.

I think that during the short drive information from the four wheels goes to the main ecu, telling the car that the steering wheel is straight, then sets that point on the SAS.

[GiveMeABreak]

Well done Stu - always pays to have a few goes and it obviously wanted it doing the right way. Result and that will save you having to melt down a few ingots for a new SAS!

[Sloppysod]

............... doing so found the outer clip on the outer drive shaft boot had broken thus allowing the boot to empty itself all over the inside of the wheel and hub, swinging arms........yuk. - added some Molybdenum high melting point grease (just hope it is enough!!), fitted a new clip from my box or bits, now the drive shaft is clamped tight on the hub again.............,.

A few times this year, basically when ever I have looked the same Driveshaft boot has come of again. I have tried;

• Cable ties - chocolate fireguard!

• The crimp type bands - lasted about 2 days http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j& ... 7762039255

• The wraparound band - 1st lasted 1 day - 2nd is still going https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Ve ... B00ATPPQK0

When I put the last band on I removed the inner band on the small end of the boot, degreased the hub & inside of the mating surface of the boot as before, put the band on then resettled the boot before putting the inner band on - Still attached after 30 miles
Now during this time I had a good look at the hub and the location groove is not very deep AND the whole hub is heavily corroded, should it be shiny or as the boot has been off for more than it should has it become like this or was it like that from new?
If it comes off again I am thinking new boot, but do I also plan to clean the hub?

[white exec]

Is it possible to take a photo of the groove/seating for the boot end?

[Sloppysod]

Is it possible to take a photo of the groove/seating for the boot end?

Sorry no, not while it is still good, if it falls off again I will.

[white exec]

Quite understandable!