specalist knowledge in 1.9TD xantias and idle speed.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

Well the Vacuum and diaphragm are working perfectly
the diaphragm cable is so taught you could cut cheese with it.
The rpm is a little lower when the engine is cold than normal but it's nice not to have the throttle speed climbing to 1500rpm when
stopping or pulling up at a junction/lights and I can always add a little throttle when starting the engine from cold in the winter time.

Average RPM at idle seems to be between 850 and 950 rpm.

Now I have this little niggling voice in my head saying "why don't you fix it properly Nigel?" so I might order those 12 volt valves and do it properly.

Thanks Jim and thank you Simon for the diagram it will be useful when I finally get hold of some new/used valves.
Thanks to everyone else that contributed to this thread to.

Now does anyone have any experience of fitting keyless entry systems to a Xantia please?
I'm a bit fed up with keep having my key fobs repaired the stupid little buttons are rubbish.
So I have bought a universal random code keyless entry system to use instead of wearing out the door locks, keys and key fob buttons.

a point worth mentioning if you sign up to GSF emails they keep sending out money off codes there has been one 40% and one 42% off voucher in the last week.
They have 25% off all service parts if ordered online and this seems to be the Norm.
They have saved me quite a bit in glow plugs for my sons Peugeot Expert and in Bendix Brake pads for my Xantia.
its better than 10% off with the Clubs. you don't have to pay online, you can click and collect the following day and still get your voucher codes accepted online when you order.
I still maintain that you should always check your parts before you leave (that's car parts by the way) as sometimes it does make you wonder if they play footy with them in their lunchtime. (you should have seen the heater matrix I bought from them for the Xantia)

Thanks again.

Nigel.

[CitroJim]

Excellent Nigel, Pleased it's all coming together I'll be most interested to hear how replacement valves go...

Keyless entry for a Xantia? Just leave it unlocked! Who's going to nick a Xantia?

(only joking)

Yes, I've made great use of the GSF discounts recently Most valuable!

[Harlequin]

aye I bought a complete brake setup with a 45% off GSF code - new discs/pads and shoes

I'm in 1/2 a mind to buy the genuine part and be done with it - ofc those Chinese ones do look tempting for the price

[falling-out-with-my-car]

Thanks Jim,

The keyless entry system I've bought is a little complicated and I suspect that the
wires inside the door are all green in my Xantia, so I've bought a 12 volt testing prodding tool
to find a constant live lead in amongst all those green wires.

My dilemma is not really knowing if the door locks are positive or negative switched to begin with.
judging by all the insulation I have on an old door lock mechanism I suspect they are positive switched.

Unfortunately GSF don't stock electro-valves not even universal ones Simon, I asked this morning.

I'm tempted to see if a 12 volt NiCad battery from one of my model boats might activate a valve or two on the scrap yard
if I rig up a couple of leads with tiny crocodile clips.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

aye I bought a complete brake setup with a 45% off GSF code - new discs/pads and shoes

I'm in 1/2 a mind to buy the genuine part and be done with it - ofc those Chinese ones do look tempting for the price

Simon,

As I have not bothered to test or remove the old valves as yet I'm not sure if the Chinese valves are any good
they say they are normally closed, so presumably a 12 volt dc current must be applied constantly or just once to keep
the valves in the open position.
without knowing the technical specification of the Chinese valves and the valves in the car it is a bit difficult to judge
exactly which are the right valves to buy, its a bit of a risk really. I think the second hand route from a scrappy
is probably the best bet at least you know roughly that your going to get automotive valves intended for that particular purpose.

Now if I can just pick the winning horse in the Grand National. Hmmmmmmm
Does anyone have a delorian with a flux capacitor in the back?
Nigel.

[RichardW]

Pretty sure they are earth switched (ie permanent +ve feed; switch connects the earth) - PM me your e-mail and RP no of the car and I'll get the wiring diags. Using a speculative RP shows that the switched earths are on pin 4 of the front doors, with wire no M6207 on FRH door and M6202 on FLH door.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

PM sent Richard,
and Thanks
regards.
Nigel.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

Well the over revving is back with vengeance, once again even though the vacuum pipe is connected and pulling
on the diaphragm cable tightly the throttle rises when the engine temperature is above 80 degrees C.
We had just one day when the outside Temperature was 19 degrees C and once again in traffic the engine
temperature rose above 80, at one point I think the engine was idling at around 1600rpm and there was nothing I could do to stop it.
I even lifted the bonnet to take a look at the cable, turning the engine off and restarting it lowered the engine revs for a few seconds
but as soon as I touched the throttle the revs rose again.
can't help thinking there must be a sensor at fault here somewhere.
What I do know is that when the car went into a Garage to have the dashboard removed to replace the heater matrix
and the dashboard was put back again the ABS light came on and my car doesn't have ABS.
an eBay diagnostic machine was plugged in to try to turn the light off I cant help wondering if other settings were messed up along the way.
As the problem never materialised until the heater matrix was done.


regards.

Nigel.

[MikeT]

Could it be sticky throttle operation or oil entering the air intake (as the engine will use it for fuel)?

To check it's not a sticking cable, next time it happens, leave it revving high, pop the bonnet and force the throttle lever on the pump toward it's stop.


.

[RichardW]

It's either the throttle cable sticking, the throttle damper, or an internal fault in the pump - there is no electronic control over the idle speed on these.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

the cable has been changed twice to try to remedy this problem
but it hasn't worked at all, I've got a spare pump but I don't know if the ecu will accept it
if I change them over. (big ole job I gather).
Don't wanna play people against each other but Jim was saying that the ecu could be programmed
in reverse to run low throttle at cold and high throttle at hot, instead of high at cold and low at Hot.
if the ecu tells the vacuum switch to open and allow vacuum to operate the Diaphragm to close the throttle down
when the engine is hot surely the electronics has a part to play in the game?

[falling-out-with-my-car]

Perhaps I am misinterpreting this to much???

That's exactly what it is doing Richard.
800 when cold rising to 1000 or 1100 when hot.
The air con pulls it back to 800 when hot.
sounds like its getting the wrong signal at the wrong time.

That is often the case if it's ben wrongly set up to compensate for a duff cold idle system...

[Harlequin]

but if you`ve bypassed the electro valve so the fast idle is allways off - then the ECU wont be involved.

[RichardW]

The fast idle can only do 1000 rpm. The ECU can control injection advance, but that's it - and even if this goes do-llally, it just runs like a bag of spanners, but the idle speed is OK. Sure this has a mechanical source. Next time it does it, take the clip off the throttle cable and see if this lets the speed drop back down - if it does then the cable is at fault; if not (and the damper has been removed) then it's the pump. I don't know if you can fit a replacement pump and re-code the immobiliser, or if you need to remove the shielding and the immobiliser part.

[falling-out-with-my-car]

RichardW,
Ill pop a pair of long nose pliers in the door card for next time and pull the
throttle clip and see, got a bad feeling the inner core of the throttle cable
was only changed have never experienced this with a cool engine
wouldn't a trapped throttle cable present this problem with a cold engine?
I think I know what your going to say " it depends upon the cables route".

Nigel.