Xantia HDI 110 Clutch slave kaputt..

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 21 Feb 2010, 20:47

Yes, that's found the fluid reservoir a treat i3

The other photos show the gearchange selector cable heads, not the slave cylinder.

Look forward on the bellhousing and you'll see a black cylinder maybe three inches long with a pipe coming out the end and immediately turning a right-angle. That's the slave cylinder.

If you'd like a picture of it to help, I'll take a photo of mine tomorrow.

I must say the garage who fitted the gearbox did not make a very nice job of cleaning it

flying clutchman · Unread post by **flying clutchman** » 21 Feb 2010, 23:52

What a catalogue of cock-ups! How can anyone take 6 weeks to change a gearbox? Sorry I'm not being more helpful but the advice you're getting so far is excellent. My moneys on the bearing not being clipped onto the clutch cover. Easy fix if that's the case. Fingers crossed!

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 23 Feb 2010, 18:07

Jim, did you manage to get round to taking a picture? if not, no worries. also, i was wondering, could you please give me more info on the exact model i have, as there seems to be so many different systems running in the xantia,,, especially with regards to the suspension system. i was thinking i should replace some spheres as the ride was really bouncy,, how do i know which ones need replacing? oh..by the way.. mine is the 2.1td vsx R-reg.. thanks
oh... please have a look at this....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 500wt_1182
is this what i will need IF the slave cylinder wasnt fitted correctly by the mechanics and the slave cylinder broke basically? did i understand the previous messages correctly?
thanks

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 23 Feb 2010, 21:17

Went out in the cold and wet and snapped a picture

This was taken after moving the airbox out of the way and looking straight down... The green arrow points to the slave cylinder.

For orientation, the green blob is a relay in the engine bay fuse box.

The picture was taken on a petrol Activa but you'll find the 2.1TD very similar.

The eBay listing for a 406 set looks very different to the Xantia set-up. It has no blue bullet in the middle of the pipe and has the remote reservoir. I don't believe it is compatible with the Xantia sadly

As yours in the VSX model, you'll have hydractive suspension. In case of bounciness on there. it is very important to ensure the suspension is working properly and especially the hard/soft switching and electrovalves are working as they should.

Have a look at this thread which contains guidance on how to test the suspension. It's Activa-centric but if you ignore the Activa bits it is applicable to yours also. That should help identify what's causingt eh bouncing.

Come back after testing and we'll offer some more specific advice...

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 24 Feb 2010, 17:32

thanks so much Jim for snapping that pic..even in the rain

i got a pic....

so this is the slave cylinder right? how do i check if it is ok?

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 03 Mar 2010, 17:24

ok..i managed to remove the slave cylinder by following the instructions,,turning it one way..... the thing is..it doesnt look like the pictures Dave posted,, its actually in two bits,,the rod and the cylinder,, is it supposed to be like this? ive got two pics,, one of the rod,,the other of the top view of the slave cylinder,, il post them up now... please let me know what now... thanks

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 03 Mar 2010, 17:27

?

this is the pic of the rod

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 03 Mar 2010, 17:28

?

this is the pic of the top view of the cylinder...

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 05 Mar 2010, 21:16

When you removed the slave cylinder, did it come out in those two parts? The piston rod should have stayed put and will normally only pop out like that is if the clutch pedal is pushed down with the slave cylinder out.

What is the white "blob" on the short end of the rod in the upper picture?

All you can try doing is to reinsert the short end back in the cylinder, press it home as far as it will go, replace it back on the bellhousing and try the bleeding methods already suggested.

Is there any evidence of leaked fluid around the front of the cylinder?

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 06 Mar 2010, 03:23

the slave cylinder came out not like that, the rod was in the cylinder but really loosely, it just literally fell out. The white blob, is some rubbe, or plastic stuff, is it not meant to be there? I tried to fit it back in, but it doesn't sit in place in the cylinder... It like just flops around. I don't actually know how to do it now.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Mar 2010, 08:09

You should be able, in theory at least, be able to push the rod right back into the slave cylinder. It may well take a bit of a big push to do it though.

The bit of white on the end is worrying; it may indicate that the whole assembly is damaged. Remove it before trying to reassemble again.

If that does not succeed, I think you will need to end up going to a scrapyard and seeing if you can find another with the same slave cylinder and carefully removing it, taking care not to lose the push rod. It has already been posted how to disconnect the pipe from the cylinder and the careful precautions to take.

If you can push the rod right back up into the slave cylinder, replace it on the bell-housing, bleed it and see if you have any clutch. But before you do, read on...

It may be that the release bearing was incorrectly assembled and the act of operating the clutch pedal is causing the pushrod to be ejected.

You can check that by looking in the hole where the slave cylinder goes. You will see a gold-coloured arm with a shallow "spoon" on the end. This "spoon" is what the pushrod rests against and will be near the top of the hole. Get hold of it with a hooked device and try to move it back and forth. It should have just a little free play. If it moves a lot or the "spoon" is deep and a long way from the top of the hole, the release bearing has been incorrectly assembled or is faulty. If this is the case, it's gearbox off time...

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 06 Mar 2010, 11:11

i got a pic of the inside of the hole were slave cylinder goes, im sorry its not straight on, i couldnt get the camera straight in there.

?
the bit of white is actually on both ends..but the end you noticed is different because it is chipped, the other side is more like a fine snooker cue tip, this side is more like an uneven cue tip that needs chalking.
the spoon-like bit in the hole from where the slave cylinder does move, but very little, in can be pulled just like a matter of few millimetres.
when you say front of the cylinder, do you mean like what i have taken a picture of and posted up previously? to be fair, there doesnt appear to be any leaked fluid anywhere around the cylinder......

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 06 Mar 2010, 11:13

oh... and the spoon bit isnt right at the front/top.... its at least a about 3ish cm into the hole... i will measure exactly how much in it is.....

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 06 Mar 2010, 11:46

..And do check how much free play it has...

i3 · Unread post by i3 » 06 Mar 2010, 15:36

ok... i had a check..its quite hard to measure so obviously they're not exactly precise, but the "spoon" bit is around 3.5cm deep into the bellhousing, andit has about 1.5mm of play:forward/back.
now..i dont know if you noticed....but it seems, although i cant look directly in,, i had a feel and had a look at the pic, and it seems as though the "spoon" thing which has that piece sticking out at a diagonal angle at the end...the diagonal piece sticking out appears to be touching the the inside of the bellhousing...now...to me from what i felt inside,,it appears as though that is what is stopping the"spoon" thing from being pressed in further..??? is that meant to be?? is it normal?? i cant be sure though... because i cant see in... but thats how it felt with my finger.... is this correct?
ok... the other thing... i see what you mean by giving the rod a good shove into the cylinder...only thing is is it meant to stay in there once pushed in? because i can not seem to get it to stay in...do i need to use more force to get it to stay in? if its not meant to stay in by itself... please five me some tips on how on earth am i to keep it in there and then fit back to the bellhousing???? it seems as though it is gonna be almost impossible to do with two hands! please guide me in this process....
oh...also...i noticed whilst i was pushing the rod into the cylinder...i had the lid of the fluid reservoir off...and i noticed bubbles popping up in the fluid each time i shoved the rod in...is this good? i thought perhaps it was getting the air out of the system...but then i thought...ahh..its probably just letting more air in!!