XANTIA BLOWER WORKING INTERMITTENTLY

[gadgetgricey]

Rory,

You are a star, will have a look when I get chance, may be Friday if not will be in a couple of weekends.

However another problem has cropped up , see my other post.

-Dave-

[stevestix8]

Hi All,

Have looked for these transistors (fw26025a1) and not many places have them. RS components and maplins didn't have them. I looked at europarts and 24/7 parts and they didn't have any.

I found on ebay a Citroen blower fix kit. see link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320995843641? ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This kit is ideal, he supplies along with the good high quality heat glue, the 2 x 30amp transistors which are better than original 20amp trannys.

I will be fitting tomorrow but am confident this will solve my problem.

Thanks,

Steve

[Brianszens]

I managed to get my transistors when I had the same problem from a place called Citroen City (a Citroen dealership) in Whitechappel Road, London. Although they weren't cheap.

[CitroJim]

I found on ebay a Citroen blower fix kit. see link:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320995843641? ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That looked good Steve Shame he's sold out.

I've always replaced with the MJ11015 (available from Franell for around £4 a pop) and they're 30A jobs. In all the ones I've done now I've only ever known one set to subsequently fail.

The critical importance is to use a pair with identical batch numbers so they current-share effectively. The design of the regulator is poor as it has no low-valve emitter resistors fitted to assist with current sharing.

Non-conductive heat-sink compound is spurious as the pair of transistors are bolted direct to the heatsink - another cost-cutting exercise needing PNP transistors rather than more common and cheap NPN transistors which would have needed mica washers between them and the heatsink In all events, you need a very thin smear of heatsink compound as too much has the reverse effect!

[gadgetgricey]

Right, been away all week down in Tenby so looking to get this finally sorted the weekend.

However already hit the first hurdle. Trying to get the transistor board removed as per previous posts to have a look at the underside. Have removed the two screws holding it in place, but do you then have to blower fan blades themselves, and if so how???

I'd assumed I would be able to slide it out from under the fan blades, but it does not want to come.

My apologies once again, but help

- Dave -

[rory_perrett]

You can remove the fan motor (including fan) from the plastic housing if you can't get the control module past the fan.

Rory

[gadgetgricey]

Hi again all.

Managed to get the control module away from the fan with a little leverage. Does not look good.

Try unscrewing the control module and then connecting everything up "correctly". Then try manually operating the relay on the control module PCB. If the motor runs at full speed then power is "getting through" the PCB and the problem is probably the control module transistors or control side circuit on the PCB. As zero volts on the control wire means the fan runs at full speed you can check if it is an ECU control signal problem by disconnecting the control wire.

Next stupid question is how do I manually operate the relay on the control module PCB.

Thanks again.

- Dave -

[rory_perrett]

Doesn't look too nice. I'm assuming that the black on the PCB is muck rather than burning. If it is conductive muck it looks like it could be shorting some of the brown connector wires.

[CitroJim]

I've seen 'em worse than that...

The main electronics are encapsulated so they can get quite wet without harm...

If they look really wet then check your windscreen scuttle seal as this will allow water to cascade over it with gay abandon...

[gadgetgricey]

OK, Dave's feeble attempt at fixing the fan continues.....

Connected everything up correctly as below.



Engine running, fan not working.

12V is getting to the exposed "feeds" under the brown connector. 12V is getting to the motor, providing that you take the earth from the brown connector. If you take the earth from the motor earth, then you get nothing....

Manually operated the relay, and the fan kicked into life.

Is this promising, does this mean the control board is knackered and its get a working second hand one, or replace the transistors as per previous replies??

Hopefully we should be getting somewhere now

Thanks again

- Dave -

[gadgetgricey]

Ok, Dave's clever idea to try something failed.

Put a small screw in place to lock the relay open, thinking I would get full power on the fan again, but be able to control the heat.

Same as before just when the motor was powered by passing the control module. Blower on full, but just blowing cold air.

Anything else to test, or are we confident its the control module that's at fault and time to obtain a working replacement or undertake the transistor fix.

Thanks again

- Dave -

[CitroJim]

If you're only blowing cold air with the relay bypassed then that suggests a climate ECU problem as it's not driving the mixer flap toward hot...

Have you checked the climate ECU is receiving power and so on. I ask as it looks like it's totally dead...

[gadgetgricey]

Have you checked the climate ECU is receiving power and so on. I ask as it looks like it's totally dead...

No, and how

Cheers

- Dave -

[CitroJim]

A fuse check firstly Dave..

F12 sems to be the main one feeding the ECU

Here's all the circuits and diagrams you may need. The Climate ECU is item 8080...

Circuit

Harnesses

Locations

It might be a good idea to check that power is available right at the climate ECU plug.

The ECU is a bit of a swine to get to and access is made much easier by taking the glove box out - a nice easy job in an S2...

[gadgetgricey]

Been thinking about this today, and going to have another go the weekend, but could this be multiple faults.

There was no 12V feed to the brown connecter, which has now been corrected, but then there is no power getting to the fan via the control module. Stupid question but does the ECU control this as well??

Can anyone explain what should be happening with the other three wires. (Two on the brown connector block, and the small wire on its own)

The problem is, is that I can trace stuff and test for voltages at specific points but cannot follow electrical circuits so have no idea what should be getting voltage where., etc etc.

Hopefully when this is sorted, I can become the font of all knowledge for blower issues

Thanks again

- Dave -