I'm back! (And looking for a Citroen...)

[Mandrake]

All auto's have a gear lever inhibitor switch so that could be the cause or the lever/switch could be out of adjustment but having said that V6's do have a problem with the starter circuit which requires the relay modification if you want to sort the problem out long term.

Fair enough. I guess if it does it I'll know what it probably is - no click when turning the key could mean the gear lever inhibitor switch, a click probably means high resistance feed to the solenoid, which would need the relay mod...

[Mandrake]

Ok so almost on cue I got a click, slight delay then start, so I guess relay mod it is then!

[KennyW]

Simon,

I see you have purchased a cracker of V6. If you need any assistance from us in the area just give a shout.

I'm sure we could come along and bring a few tools to help.

Kenny

[CitroJim]

All auto's have a gear lever inhibitor switch so that could be the cause or the lever/switch could be out of adjustment but having said that V6's do have a problem with the starter circuit which requires the relay modification if you want to sort the problem out long term.

Fair enough. I guess if it does it I'll know what it probably is - no click when turning the key could mean the gear lever inhibitor switch, a click probably means high resistance feed to the solenoid, which would need the relay mod...

Yep, no click could well be the inhibitor switch They are known not to be the most reliable of things... And, they're not very amenable to being opened up and fettled...

Just for completeness, Here's the circuit of the gearbox showing the wiring of the switch...

It's for the MK1 but the MK2 is pretty much identical..

[Mandrake]

Simon,

I see you have purchased a cracker of V6. If you need any assistance from us in the area just give a shout.

I'm sure we could come along and bring a few tools to help.

Kenny

Thanks, I'll certainly keep that in mind.

I'm quite enjoying going around buying a few tools here and a few there to get myself re-equipped for looking after a car. Who would have thought I'd miss getting covered in oil and muck beneath a misbehaving car.

[Mandrake]

Right, today is D-Day for sphere changing, I'm off to get spheres, 2 drive on ramps and an assortment of other tools. (Any must have tools I haven't thought of ? I already have a cold chisel and block hammer )

One thing is worrying me though - where the heck is the pressure regulator bleed valve on the V6 ? I understand its down underneath somewhere, but not having ramps yet I haven't located it. My fear is that with the car backed up onto ramps to replace the back spheres, if the only access to the bleed valve is from underneath, I might not be able to reach it with the back up in the air and the nose at ground level angling downwards

Any hints ? I am considering also doing the front spheres in the same job if AEP have them in stock to save two trips to get spheres and two separate days working on the car. (Today is beautiful albeit cold, and non-raining days are in short supply around here )

I take it I need to remove the air filter and surrounding piping to be able to change the front hydractive sphere, or can it be done from underneath ? The 2.0 petrol required both bottom access (to get the strap spanner on) and top access (air intake pipe removed) to actually lift the sphere out.

Thanks guys

[DickieG]

You've spotted Citroen's deliberate mistake there as the pressure regulator bolt is facing the engine (regulator is fitted in reverse) so you need to have access from underneath which as you say isn't easy when the car is facing downwards. Thankfully if you undo the sphere's then lower the car you can remove the sphere's without de-pressurising the system from the regulator.

I can't recall whether I removed the front Hydractive sphere from above or below but I do recall removing the air filter then in the process of working down there I managed to press too hard against a rubber LHM hose and split it as I recall it pointed vertically upwards from the Hyractive block and had at least one pipe 'T'd off it at a right angle, so be careful of that one.

[Mandrake]

Ooh err, I'm not too happy about changing the rear spheres without the bleed screw open. Not only does it rely on the height corrector working perfectly, there is a permanent direct high pressure supply to the hydractive block, relying on it to be leak free to prevent leakage through the open sphere port I'll have to see what I can do...

[DickieG]

LHM is apparently good for your hair

[Mandrake]

Well, feeling rather gutted after wasting a sunny day. Got all the things I thought I would need and.... completely unable to move any of the rear spheres due to rust.

Originally I wanted to get a strap spanner similar to the one I used to have and was going to get one of these:

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Oil-Filter ... ley-VS6403" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used to use a strap spanner very similar to this together with a block hammer to jolt the sphere while torque was being applied and had good success with that in the past.

However I was unable to find one in stock today so thought I'd just go ahead with just a hammer and cold chisel. No dice. Couldn't budge any of the 3 rear suspension spheres.

I'm now worried that even if I get a tool like the above I'm just not going to be able to get these spheres off. Any suggestions ?

[DickieG]

Other than a heavier hammer and a bigger swing with it not much, I've always managed to get any sphere off using the hammer method due to the shock element. Are you really giving it some welly?

I've had it maybe once or twice where a really stuck sphere was reluctant to move using the Pleiades tool complete with a 4' scaffold pole on the end of it and kicking it hard, so I resorted to a decent weight ball pein hammer and cold chisel which did the trick.

Just as well that oil filter wrench was out of stock as I can't see that being man enough for the job.

Welcome to the "delights" of maintaining a hydraulic Citroen on salted Scottish roads, no doubt slightly different to doing the same in NZ

[lexi]

I don't think that car had been in Scotland till July and it wasn't out in salt this winter ..........it was from darn sarf:-D

You can bring over here if you are stuck mate. There is a good dry working space under carport for all weathers and loads of tools.

I suspect your chisel is not biting into the weld so that it almost takes a shaving off. If it starts to do that then move to another part of the weld.

There is one of them tools off Ebay here but I always used the chisel. Don't be stuck and frustrated just come over.

[Mandrake]

Appreciate the offer lexi, it might come to that. It'll be a while before I get another chance to look at it due to work etc though. I've got a couple of different tools on order including the band wrench I linked to just before that will hopefully give me a bit better luck.

I know you guys are sceptical of them but a combination of a good spray of penetrating lubricant, a strong band wrench and a block hammer has always succeeded for me even on quite rusty spheres - the trick being to get as much torque on the band wrench as possible (2 hands) and then a second person to give the base of the sphere a few good whacks with a 2 lb block hammer, and they usually let go.

I've never liked the hammer and chisel method, the problem I think is that theres nothing to centre the torque properly so too much of the jolt is wasted in trying to bend the cylinder sideways and not enough in producing torque...

I wasn't having any problems with shavings coming off - I had a good deep bite into the weld area but it still wouldn't move.

Will have another go with these other tools when I get a chance and report back...

[CitroJim]

LHM is apparently good for your hair

It is, I can assure you. A good rinse of LHM is better than any conditioner. It leaves your hair as soft as a soft thing...

It's also good for preventing baldness. It's worked with me...

I've never failed with a Pleiades tool on rear corners. A good bash on the end and job done. I've failed on other spheres though and there the old cold chisel comes good. I do agree though, I'd not like to chisel rear corners for preference as they're alloy and I'd be afraid of damage.

You really need something akin to a Pleiades tool or a Xac special. That band thing you showed is a bit girly for the job really. It needs a much longer handle to exert enough torque...

[Mandrake]

LHM is apparently good for your hair

It is, I can assure you. A good rinse of LHM is better than any conditioner. It leaves your hair as soft as a soft thing...

It's also good for preventing baldness. It's worked with me...

Haha. Well I'm not sure if it makes a good conditioning, but I do still have all my hair

I've never failed with a Pleiades tool on rear corners. A good bash on the end and job done. I've failed on other spheres though and there the old cold chisel comes good. I do agree though, I'd not like to chisel rear corners for preference as they're alloy and I'd be afraid of damage.

You really need something akin to a Pleiades tool or a Xac special. That band thing you showed is a bit girly for the job really. It needs a much longer handle to exert enough torque...

Well the one I used to have had basically the same mechanism but a straight handle, over which I had slid a 40cm long copper tube for a bit of extra leverage

I had forgotten all about the Pleiades tool. Are they still available ?