performance ugrades

KP · Unread post by KP » 01 Apr 2009, 14:36

You'd be best to just have a swap out pipe for the cat for a freer flowing exhaust and then if you upgrade your turbo fitting a roller bearing turbo if your spending the money may as well spend it well and get something with a longer life expectancy

slyv12 · Unread post by **slyv12** » 01 Apr 2009, 19:43

What sort of power will the engine take, would hopefully be looking at about 250hp mark maybe with these upgrades.

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 01 Apr 2009, 19:54

slyv12 wrote:What sort of power will the engine take, would hopefully be looking at about 250hp mark maybe with these upgrades.

The engine will take loads. As long as it is correctly mapped it wouldnt worry about 250bhp.

slyv12 · Unread post by **slyv12** » 01 Apr 2009, 19:58

looking for something different to take to the ring next may, had a xm turbo si estate with this engine in but had a lot of problems with it.

All i've got to do is find a good one now.
Anyone know of any for sale?

Whats the story with the ram bushes, can the be changed for a poly bush?

KP · Unread post by KP » 02 Apr 2009, 09:17

If your going to the ring i would strip out half the interior, invest in a spare set of alloys or lightweight more open ones and some Dunlop semi slicks like those fitted to the Exige i believe?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dunlop-rally-tyre ... 240%3A1318

Then just see about having an easy fitment side exit exhaust so that when you get across there you can unhook yours and the cat and put the side exit on for a more free flowing exhaust just for the track?

Things even like door cards could be taken out carefully, spare wheel and brace to save on the wieght of the car?

If you want to push higher power you may be best to get something like an aquamist system and IC spray as well, the CO2 ones can be quite good i hear and also adding water wetter to your coolant as blasting round the ring for 8+ minutes at near full throttle will certainly dump the red hot turbo heat into the engine bay and cooling system...

Also front pads and discs will need to be upgrated.
DBA do some good discs for cars, not sure about teh xantia though.
Pagid do varying degrees of aggressiveness and or temprature loading.
I used to run RS242 on teh coupe and they lasted a long time considering the abuse they got and were very good. 2 sets ate thru my 3G Grooved and Dimpled discs in less than 20k iirc....

Koukku · Unread post by **Koukku** » 02 Apr 2009, 15:23

I guess those are valid suggestions if you're really passionate about your BTG times.

Personally I'd rather not do any alterations to the car for a track day. But I have had some thoughts about lighter rims and front seats...

About the brake upgrade... if TCT has smaller front discs than the V6, then there is an upgrade option for the TCT, but I don't think there are any aftermarket performance parts available for Xantia, pads or discs. Discs meant for Peugeot 406 (and 406 coupe) should fit I guess, but calibers might be a problem.

For the V6 the only feasible brake upgrade is pretty much new pads (any suggestions?) and fresh LHM...

Brigsygtt · Unread post by **Brigsygtt** » 02 Apr 2009, 17:12

From a quick search i see the xantia discs are used on other french cars, Fit a set of mintex 1144 with new std discs if poss, should be easily up to the job for track/road. If your not too bothered about squealing brakes go for ferodo ds2500

Ive no idea what the lhm will do when hot, suck it & see i suppose unless there are upgrades..

As for water injection, id rather fit a bigger fmic, Cheaper & more effective. Measure the charge temps with the std i/c, shame the end caps are plastic that will be the downfall.

Koukku · Unread post by **Koukku** » 02 Apr 2009, 20:21

A colleague of mine who regularly drives his '83 911SC at trackdays and autoslaloms (and goes to the Ring every year) recommended the Ferodo 2500's too, but apparently they don't make those for Xantia... and the squealing doesn't sound good either (pun intended). Another pads he recommended were EBC Redstuff, but those don't seem to be available for Xantia either.

Ferodo seems to make LHM as well.

They claim that their LHM has "High 240 C boiling point": http://www.ferodo.co.uk/ferodo_home/car.html (at the very bottom of the page). Dunno how that differs from the regular stuff, if at all...

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 02 Apr 2009, 21:59

I've not yet heard of anyone boiling LHM.

FWIW aspiring track "racers" might do well with a half cage or similar for torsional rigidity. I can hear the chassis flex on my estate by the rubber weatherseal noises on hard cornering. Suspect sedans are similar!

Regards, Adam.

KP · Unread post by KP » 03 Apr 2009, 07:52

If you were worried about LHM boiling you could fit a mini rad on the return to the header tank to cool it down a bit but as said i've never heard of anyone boiling as there is so much pipework and the like for the heat to be lost in....

Koukku · Unread post by **Koukku** » 03 Apr 2009, 10:24

KP wrote:If you were worried about LHM boiling you could fit a mini rad on the return to the header tank to cool it down a bit but as said i've never heard of anyone boiling as there is so much pipework and the like for the heat to be lost in....

There is no return piping from brakes, so I think boiling LHM in the brakes is as likely as boiling regular brake fluid in steel sprung cars. Depending on the boiling point of the fluid of course.

But I would imagine that regular pads would give up before fluids reach such temps...

XantiaMan · Unread post by **XantiaMan** » 03 Apr 2009, 11:37

I believe LHM doesnt absorb water like normal brake fluid so will always be at an advantage. Your likely to cook the pads before you boil the fluid on a Xantia.

KP · Unread post by KP » 03 Apr 2009, 11:46

The fluid must return in some fashion otherwise how would it cope when you release the pressure or push back the pistons when changing to new pads??

Koukku · Unread post by **Koukku** » 03 Apr 2009, 12:54

KP wrote:The fluid must return in some fashion otherwise how would it cope when you release the pressure or push back the pistons when changing to new pads??

Well yes, of course, just like in any other brake system. But there's no separate return piping like there is for suspension. That's why you need to bleed the brakes when changing LHM, to get the old LHM out of the brake pipings.

I guess you could add a radiator to cool the little amount of LHM that returns when releasing brake pedal, but I think it might be more efficient to cool the brakes itself with some sort of ducting...

KP · Unread post by KP » 03 Apr 2009, 14:34

If you really wanted to cool them you would need to force some air as well as a very fine mist into the centre of the disc so as it would be forced thru the disc taking the heat with it as it was spinning during forward motion.

Generally having more open alloys helps this as well as lighter ones and then spreading the load out over a larger pad.
Ie get some 16" alloys like off maybe a saxo VTS or suchlike, some Quad piston front brake Calipers(used brembos are quite cheap and easy to refurb) and then use bigger discs and pads for the car

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