I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

[Stickyfinger]

I had to adjust the brake pedal switch as the brakes stayed on due to being to close a contact.! (was OK when I left home to go shopping...5 miles...but were on when I got there and had to drive home with them on)

I lowered the tab a little when I got home and the brake lights now work perfectly.....however cruse is now not working !.....would "contact" for time (7-10 miles) do any damage ? or should I take it apart and check it again... ?

[xantia_v6]

I don't see any reason for the brake light contacts to affect the cruise contacts... Unless something is applying pressure to the cruise contact.

But the cruise contacts are notorious for getting dirty and needing a rub through. They don't need much, I have never needed to attack them with a file.

[Hell Razor5543]

I wonder if the brake switch is similar to the one used on the C5? On my first C5 (when I was looking to add cruise control) I found it had a dual function brake switch (two switches; one housing). Switch 1 was a 'Push to Make' type, and this turned on the brake lights. Switch 2 was a 'Push to Break' type, and this disconnected the cruise control. If the contacts on the 'Push to Make' switch are dirty, and the switch unit has to be adjusted up to make them work, it is possible that this is causing the 'Push to Break' switch to be closed enough to disconnect the cruise control.

[xantia_v6]

The Xantia/XM switches are completely different to later models due to the brakes being powered by the central hydraulic system, the switch is built into the rubber pad on the brake pedal,

[Stickyfinger]

Yep, contacts are in the "foot pad".... BOTH brake light and "cruse off" switches are in it...........

I will take it apart again and check tolerances/dirty contacts......

[Stickyfinger]

All done now, the new part made the "press-bar" slightly to tall, I would say only about 1mm...the tolerance is that close !. The brake contacts are -make-, the cruse contact is -disconnect-

[Hell Razor5543]

So, I was (sort of) right?

[Stickyfinger]

Was always in the know on the type of contacts.....just worried that I had damaged the Cruse ECU somehow.............also surprised it has such tight tolerance however....what an arse of a way of doing it = Citroen

[Stickyfinger]

I removed the dash for fix some dead bulbs (headlamp lights high/low beam bulbs and one of the speedo) and chase down an Intermittent fuel gauge.~

Gauge was "sticky", moving it through its full arc a few times has fixed that.....it was tight from about 1/4 up....I slowly worked it up step by step until it moved by blowing on it and falls back cleanly and at a constant rate now.

I changed the bulbs but funny things were happening when I reattached the connectors and checked.... I am glad I did !....... time to resolder all the connectors on the dashboard with LEAD !


Small sample....they ALL show signs of fracturing so I will do them all even if "good"

[CitroJim]

Yep, those joints are properly dry! Well spotted!

[Stickyfinger]

All fixed now.....

BUT....can any Xantia Nerd spot the change I have made to the "illumination"...........(no, not LED)

[CitroJim]

There's nothing more satisfying than all bulbs being present and correct on a Xantia dash

The digits on the speedo and tacho look greener than usual and from memory I cannot recall the major speed markers being white with the minor ones being green?

I'm sure I've missed the obvious...

[Hell Razor5543]

The rev counter, where the numerals are, appears different to me.

[Stickyfinger]

Well spotted chaps.....I have removed the green from the main markers to improve "quick glance" of speed/revs (The green is better without the flash going off !)

[Stickyfinger]

A VERY sad day for me....

I killed my old broom
He was a good old sweeper, had him for years.....will miss him

RIP Basil