I am an Activaist-v6 and a 2.1Estateerr

[CitroJim]

I cannot Jim, I have yet to look with my 10x loops on but with normal eye sight...not a thing. The joint was tight and the metal "O ring" was there.

I thought that might be the case and that is my experience exactly of such failures... They only have to be microscopic to wreak absolute havoc...

It'll be by the flare or by the head of where the union nut sat. Both are potential stress-risers.

Don't chuck the old pipe. They are NFP and thus valuable now...

[Stickyfinger]

I will save it for sure. Using the silver v6 as a guide helped when replacing it.

I have the headlamp and trim to refit now then back on the road again.

[Stickyfinger]

Test drive all done, no leaks. Problem solved and it is even pulling better, that intake pipe must of been restricting the cold air supply quite a lot and I had not even noticed a drop off so it must of been doing so since I have had it. (I did know it was poor but I had not known it was that bad)

On a more positive note I will not have any "coolant swirl pot" problems now. This is from scrap pieces of stainless and made by a friend who builds warships so should be suitably strong.
Maybe I should change my resistance to car names and call the Activa "Pugwash" from now on

[CitroJim]

Excellent news Alasdair Tell me, does it rise faster now? I noticed at the X it was quite slow to get a good rise one the go... If it is faster now I have a theory...

That new swirl pot is sweet

[Stickyfinger]

It does seem to rise faster.........what are you thinking ?

[CitroJim]

It does seem to rise faster.........what are you thinking ?

I'm wondering if there was a kink or other obstruction in the pipe that restricted the flow and that kink/obstruction may have led to its demise...

[Stickyfinger]

No bend/kink, the pipe tail was perfectly straight, it came out of the hole easily as per the other pipes have. I cannot see any scuff marks or pressure points on the pipe. The pipe looks perfectly round. I tried tightening it roadside, it did not help. There is zero corrosion on either the pipe or the threaded collar.
Looking at it there is an incomplete (not all the way around) marking from the metal collar, maybe it was not seating correctly ? I have yet to look under magnification.

[CitroJim]

Hmmm Interesting...

I'll be keen to look at that pipe too next time I'm down your way (later this month of May for the Tour of Wessex ). Only trouble is my eyes are not good these days and I'll need a big magnifier...

[Stickyfinger]

I will leave it alone until you see it.....I have 10x or 15x loops for you

[CitroJim]

I will leave it alone until you see it.....I have 10x or 15x loops for you

Perfect

[Stickyfinger]

Well I took the car out for a run yesterday, checked it and no leaks on my return. I have checked this morning after putting down clean newspaper, no drips overnight so all seems totally dry.

Jim, I know it was a bad day on Wed, I appreciate the guidance which allowed me to arrange recovery rather than struggle to fix at the roadside, thanks buddy.

[CitroJim]

Alasdair, that's excellent news ;D

Jim, I know it was a bad day on Wed, I appreciate the guidance which allowed me to arrange recovery rather than struggle to fix at the roadside, thanks buddy.

No problem at all, always very happy to help wherever I can, you know me I'm sorry I was a bit shot and snappy initially - I was really feeling very rough at the time... I think anyone else might well have been advised to try a bit of s3x and travel though

Much better now, just like your Activa

[Stickyfinger]

So today I embarked on replacing the rear left side bearing/hub.
So, as per advised on here I pulled the hub off and removed the remaining race.
On inspection I found this

Stripped sub shaft threads, lots of thread lock....a LaBodge ! Lucky I kept the wheel I think.

Two points found on removal....Haynes BoLies is wrong.
The shaft drifts from the outside inwards towards the car, there are NO splines or circlip, just a "snap ring to prevent it pulling through. It is hollow on both sides to enable a long drift to be inserted for insertion and removal.

(Note:....I hit the end as it was already scrap, that is why it is bent....note the threads however)

[Stickyfinger]

The Arm and the new stub shaft

[CitroJim]

That was a blessing you did the bearings and found this bodge Alasdair... You could have lost a wheel at any time under enthusiastic cornering...

Good to see how to replace duff stub-axles Easier then interference-fit splined ones for sure... That is a bit of good design for a change!