X7 Break 3 2010 // Missing initiation signal on hydro-pneumatic system

[Kees]

Sorry, my mistake, the normal ride height is 73 cm.
About the 2005 pls ignore this one, as you say by yourself, it's a ghost error from the diagbox itself.
But now I understand you have the diagbox?
If so, you can see the data from the sensors in real time, and when the back of the car is normal, then you can adjust the front sensor around the same value.
One other thing, you speak about the lever is blocked in the above position, I hope you mean when it's mounted on the car, the lever must point downwards if you look from under the car.

[Coney]

Just had another thought about how you meant that.

Adjust the car on the 4-post lift so the sensor in the blocked position will fit in and then adjust at the clamp until some reading (diagBox?) reads 37cm? More like that?

[Kees]

If you blocked the sensor with a pin, there are no changes in the raiding when you change the clamp.
My car v6/3.0 is different from yours, because I have 4 sensors and no clamp, but when my car is at the correct height then the hole corresponds to the pin.

Also an other thing, the sensor MUST be the same as the original, because there are several different ones!
Maybe there's an other forummer that make some pictures from his car, so you can compair some things.

[Kees]

I look up the original parts for your car, the front sensor have a black lever and the back a white one.
And J4 is front, so J9 is back

[Kees]

I checked something else, if you look at the picture I put now the blue one in the same position as the yellow one and you see the output is totally different, so this is why it's very important to use the right one!

[Coney]

Thank you. I am getting wiser.

yes, I got a diagBox. I gave it to the mechanic at the shop to use.

I understand that 73 cm is the distance from ground to fender arch top in Normal position setting. (Then 70 wasn't so bad)

That would be the "normal" setting on the sensor too, I guess. Should the holes on the sensor then be lined up, pinned, and/or fine tuned with the clamp? And then value 73 entered in the DiagBox?

I'm sorry if I get on your nerves. My problem is, I don't see nor touch these things. I'm sort of a man in the middle and have to understand you to know what to tell him.

From what I heard from the mechanic:

- He fixed the transmission and went for a test drive. Everything worked, suddenly the suspension dropped.

- He found no voltage at the sensor but up to the adjecent connector.
So probably the connector came loose while driving.

- Then he fixed the connector and put in a different sensor (fixing two errors at one time is never a good idea).

The new sensor, he told me, was a Hella, a newer model, that supplies data for adjustable headlights as well. So that may be the wrong type and could be the cause of the present problem.

I believe he told me that after entering values per DiagBox he could raise and lower the suspension by means of it and did so several times.

But with the diagBox disconnected and turning on the ignition, the pump won't start.

Good night and thanks again for your valuable support.

[Coney]

Just saw the blue sensor. Looks like it goes in a 3.2V circuit.

I think he would have noticed that. He's actually pretty experienced and thinks analytically.

Nice Fluke, by the way.

[Kees]

I don't know what you mean by 3.2 voltage circuit, as I say before the range is between 0.3 an 4 volt over 120 degrees, so if you turn the lever over 360 degrees you see this voltage 3 times.
About the connector, there's a little notch on it, so if you put the connector correct there's no way it comes loose, but it's possible that it was not so.
About the height if he stands 70 cm, then it should be possible with small adjustments of the clamp to correct the height, but each time, gif the system About 15 seconds to adjust.
If this will not work, the sensor is not the correct one!
You're mechanic is right, but only the internet shops say, it's the same as for the headlight adjustments for example Peugeot. So if you can adjust the height with the clamp then it's fine.
Some other thing, that the mechanic can change the height, with the switch in the car, is normal, because these are different system.

[Coney]

Never mind the 3.2 Volts. It was just an idea I had. It was wrong.
_________________

Hello and thanks for the reply,

I'm pretty sure he's got the right one. I'll discuss it tomorrow.

The sensor actually sets angle and Voltage in a correlation.

So if in your picture the lever is at the correct angle, that correct position can be reproduced by applying 5V and moving the yellow lever until I get a 4.41V reading.
(While the (wrong) BLUE sensor passes 2.8V in that same position - I think, I get what you're saying ).

So the procedure would generally be

- bringing the body to the 73cm distance fender arch to ground

- bringing the lever on the sensor into the position where it passes ~4.4V

- fastening the sensor and adjusting the rod by means of the clamp so there is no tension.

Then

in the diagBox

an "Initial front reference height"

and a

"Front reference height programmed" need to be entered.

You suggested to enter the values of the rear.

So it should work.

We'll find out tomorrow (I hope).

Thank you, have a grand evening.

[Kees]

I think, this is not right, at 73cm the movement of the suspension is in the middle of the min/max movement.
If you put the sensor then at the 4V it will go out of range in some way of the movement, maybe the value of the bleu sensor is correct in this position.
This is why I said, see the value of the rear sensor, also around 72/73 CM and use this to adjust the clamp at the front.
But you said, that the front is around 70 CM just try to adjust the clamp a little, wait until the car reacts and see if you get it at 73 CM, then your ready and it's oke.

[Coney]

About the height if he stands 70 cm, then it should be possible with small adjustments of the clamp to correct the height, but each time, gif the system About 15 seconds to adjust.
If this will not work, the sensor is not the correct one!

What would I adjust it to?

If suspension is stationary any change would simply be a change in voltage.

In other words, what would I look at while moving the clamp.

[Kees]

I just made some pictures of the diagbox about my data from the diagbox, but remember I have a V6/3.0 with 4 height sensors, but je can see, that they are around 2 Volt.
Because the car stand not level and I sit at the right passenger seat, is there some difference between left and right.

Also some pictures of the lever positions from the height sensors.

[Coney]

This is why I said, see the value of the rear sensor, also around 72/73 CM and use this to adjust the clamp at the front.
But you said, that the front is around 70 CM just try to adjust the clamp a little, wait until the car reacts and see if you get it at 73 CM, then your ready and it's oke.

I'm sorry. I didn't get that, which is due to the fact that I have no feel, no, smell no touch of this.

I now understand that moving the rod with the clamp loosened will cause the suspension to rise or sink.

Super. Thanks.

[Coney]

Good morning,

thanks for the helpful images. I could even read the Dutch.


So I would install the sensor with it's arm in a position that would pass about 2 Volts,

with the clamp loose, jiggle the rod (waiting approx. 15 seconds for response) until the ground to fender distance becomes 73cm.


Then I would make sure that the rear is at 73 as well and copy the rear values in the diagBox into the front sensor settings which both should be about 2 Volts.

Does that sound right?

Thanks and have a fine day

[Kees]

If the rear is between 72 and 73 CM don't change it, just see how much the voltage is, then you know what it should be at the front.